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Sooo confused!

sophie12397

Member
Joined
February 2, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Atlanta, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 Explorer XLT
Hi everyone, I'm looking for some help with my 96 V* 5.0L Explorer which is totally stock.

Ok, so, here goes...

I MUST pass emissions in order to get my yearly tag from the powers that be in GA. A few months ago, my CEL would lite up and then it would go away, without me doing a thing to the vehicle. I took it in a few weeks before I had to get the tag and it FLUNKED.:eek:

I took it to AutoZone and they said it had two codes, one of them was a 320 (camshaft sensor), so I bought one of the cam censors, the mechanic I go to installed it and STILL no code clearing! Talk about shocked. Well, long story short, it seems that you HAVE to change the camshaft synchronizer along with the sensor! We FINALLY got that taken care of, (tuff to do when you don't know what the hell the part under the cam sensor is called!) At any rate, I'm all good with that, but NOW!!!! The other damn code won't go away!

It's a 402. Yep, the freaking EGR!

Well, the mechanic has cleaned out the EGR valve... it's pretty much spotless. Unfortunately, I'm still getting the stupid code! I'm not anxious to throw money (buying new parts) at the problem and so, I was wondering if any of you have had a similar issue with this lovely twist...today, something weird happened, the mechanic took a straightened out bobby pin (from his wife) and poked around the inside of vacuum hose, and wouldn't you know that damn light cleared... for about 5 miles. HELP!

Anyone have any ideas why this would be happening? I really need some help because my tags are now OVERDUE, and if I drive my Explorer (which is my only car) then I run the risk of getting a ticket. I NEED those tags, even thought I've already FAILED 2 (yes, two) emissions tests!

Thanks for your help!
 



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no solution but i will be watching as i have the same issue, only michigan has no emissions laws
 






if he poked around in a vacuum hose and the light went out ,maybe that hose is blocked and needs replacing, or something on either end of that hose is to blame, ,
 






Does your engine have the internal egr?
 






Yes. it does have an internal EGR as there is no DPFE
 






I would have to guess the EGR valve could be sticking open allowing the extra egr in. There could be rust or carbon on the shaft stopping it from closing every so often.

Also, there's a sensor that fastens to the egr. If your sure it's not the egr itself I would spend the 25 bucks and change that.
 






The internal EGR system has no way of actually metering the egr "flow" as the external EGR DPFE system does. It relies on a position sensor. If the sensor is "on" the system "assumes" egr is flowing.

So, you have eliminated the egr valve as the cause. ( unless the linkage is sticky as stated above)


If the egr position sensor linkage was hanging up though, from being dirty, or, if there is a leak in the EGR vacuum regulator, or, if the egr sensor is not switching state, you will get a code.

Hopefully this will help you to find the cause. Good luck.
 






Thanks so much for the info! Is there a simple test taht can be performed on the regulator?
 






There could be, but I don't know. Unless you were able to do it yourself the labor cost would be as much or more than the new sensor.

Take off the egr and open and close it a few times and make sure it's "seating" properly each time. The egr on that motor is a real pain to get off. I know because I had mine off twice, lol. While you have it off, if the egr is seating properly I would change the sensor. It's only three small bolts and a gasket. It's a lot cheaper than an inspection ticket.

I still think that it's the egr not seating properly as you say the light comes and goes. But like I said, due to the postion of that egr I'd change that sensor while I had it off. Then you'll know you have that covered.
 






Thanks for the suggestion, I'll get the mechanic to take it off again, and this time changed the sensor as well. He had a bit of trouble getting the bottom bolt off but he did do it before so I'm sure he can do it again.

I'm running out of the office for a bit, so I won't have a chance to respond but I hope that won't stop contributions to the thread as it seems this may be helpful to others.

Thanks again!
 






Hello again,

Ok, so the egr valve has been checked and it seems to be working. My mechanic tested it with a vaccuum tester (I think that's what it's called) and with the engine running, it caused the engine to stumble and seem as if ti would stall out. Which according to him, means the egr valve is working. Now, the trick is to figure out which of the other two parts (sensor or regualtor) is the one that is bad.

Anyone have any tricks to share about how to figure that out?

Thanks in advance!
 






Just because the engine stumbles doesn't mean it's not closing all the way on occasion. Although it does show the diaphram isn't torn and that vacuum is opening it like it should. I was told by the Ford garage that more times then not it's the sensor that goes. You may be able to run a search and find out how to test them, but both are a 25 dollar part.
 






Are you sure there is no DPFE on this model ? I failed my e-test and it was the DPFE, once I changed it I shaved over 1000 points off my NOX reading. 2 years later my e-test was even better.

Here is my old e-test thread which might be useful. What part of the e-test are you failing ?

http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203278
 






Yes, I'm sure there's no DPFE, I went to the local dealer and they checked under the hood. The difference might be that yours is a 4.0L (v6?) and mine is a 5.0L (V8)

I keep failing the "readiness" portion. Whatever THAT means. LOL We don't do the "NOX" test in Georgia, it's HC and CO according to this scrap of paper called the "test results" :rolleyes:

I'll be buying the sensor at Advance tomorrow... they're cheaper than AutoZone and a friend is going to install it, cause I'm useless with working on cars...

Wish me LUCK!

Thanks guys! I'll let y'all know what happens!
 






I think readiness in a e-test means that they didn't even get to the e-test because something from the OBD diagnostic was reported as not ready. You probably have to drive around a few hundred miles first. I'm not an expert on this. even though my ex was blowing codes I still passsed my e-test. In Canada they are mostly concerned about the numbers in the final output of the test. I don't know what kind of system you have there if they don't test for NOX. If they didn't test for NOX here I would never have had a e-test problem because my HC and CO were fine. Anyway the worst it could be at this point is a catalytic converter.
 






Ok, so, here's what happened...

I got the new sensor installed... no change. SIGH

SO, I took it over to my ex and he piddled around with it a bit. He actually took a hose (tube) with a smaller inner diameter than the vacuum hose that was on there and changed it out. He also took the end off of the white vacuum tube thingy (don't aks me what it's really called) and improvised a new connector to go onto the egr valve. Well, that shut the light off totally. I drove it home (about 15 miles one way) and it stayed off. Took it the following morning to get teh test, it PASSED (HURRAY) and then got me tag! Yippee! I'm legal!

Unfortunately... you knew that was coming, right?... the damn light came back ON! Now though, it's throwing a 401 AND a 402 code (401= too little flow, 402 = too much).

SIGH

I'm going to take a few days off from worrying about this right now, I'm so worn out from all this, but I will get it fixed. Out damn light, OUT!

Thanks for all the attempts to help!
 






Ok, so I'm BACK... my truck STILL has the CEL light on (it never turned off after I passed emissions back in April) and now it's running REALLY rough. The CEL had been a steady light but now, it's blinking madly! And, the other day, when I went about 6 miles to bail out a friend who's tire had blown, it started smelling weird in the car. I took it to Auto Zone and they said it was throwing P401 and P1400 codes.

I spent some time on the site looking at thread with those codes and I gotta tell you, I'm more confused than ever. Although the dealer told me I had no DPFE on my car, there is something that looks a bit like the pictures of the DPFE (posted in various places on this site) and so I ought one of those from AutoZone. I went to take the thing off and found out that while it had the two hose barbs and the wiring harness plug in.... MY part also has a round knob looking thing on the "bottom". I have been able to find NO pictures of it anywhere, and frankly I don't know what to do... I'm stumped!

Can anybody help... make a suggestion, point em towards some resolution? As I stated before this is my ONLY car!

Thanks in advance for all your help!
 






I just took the old part off and the number on the part is # F76E-9S429-AB which, sadly returns a ''nothing found" on google.

Sigh.
 






Ha! Found it! It's the EGR Control Solenoid (from Napa's website)

Wish me luck changing it out!
 



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