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Soul Eater 5.0L Swap log

CDW6212R

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Look online at eBay and other popular trans parts sources(most do list on eBay now), try to find a direct clutch that has the pistons also, even compare to a complete drum(seals and clutches installed). Depending on the time, luck etc, it can be more feasible to buy the whole assembly, but sometimes just the pieces are better or cheaper to get.

I think I'd replace that planetary also, that surface where the center support rides in it might be hurt, it's impossible for me or others to tell by a picture. Judge that well, if you think it may be worn even slightly(out of round), that could contribute to future issues.

The ring gear is fine at the machined line etc, that's normal and doesn't affect the surfaces that contact each other.

You are replacing all of the solenoids too, the range sensor(DTRS), and accumulators too of course? That Sonnax Sure Cure kit has their o-ring kit in it and all but one newer made item included. If you wanted to change the two main accumulator springs by choice, the popular two used for the J'Mod are almost always listed on eBay by a few users. One has had them often for about $25 for the pair most of when I've been browsing.
 
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Justin_

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City, State
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98 2-DR Sport 4x4 4.10
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Sorry, never listed it. Here is a list of the other stuff I have. Got it all as a kit.

Master Overhaul Kit
Filter
Overdrive Band
Sonnax Sure Cure Kit (S76741PDK)
shift solenoid Pack
Pump Bushing
Sun Gear Bushing
Rear Planetary Gearset Bushing
Direct Clutch Bushing
1-2 Accumulator Piston (bonded rubber type)
1-2 Accumulator Cover
2-3 Accumulator Piston (bonded rubber type)

I haven't actually taken a look at the jmod before, so just spent the last 40 minutes looking that up. I will probably go with doing that. Still lookin into that a bit. I see some people just remove the springs entirely. Is there a post somewhere that describes the effects of diffrent or no springs?
 
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CDW6212R

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The J'mod is about varying sizes of holes for shifting, and it depends some on the vehicle weight, main line pressure, the accumulator springs, and slightly the particular VB. So it's hard to say on set of hole sizes is just right for most applications. Most of what you'll find is examples of people with mid 90's Thunderbird's or Mark VIII, Crown Vics/GM's, and much less on everything else. So choosing those holes and springs is hard for a truck or other vehicles.

I saw lots of people pushing different springs, as well as no spring at all. I would prefer to use the two most used or suggested, and try to work with those. Other spring rates will likely achieve more varying levels of shift firmness, such as really hard with some springs or no spring(s).

I planned to choose smaller holes and then go back into the VB to adjust them larger as needed. It's easy to make a hole bigger, and hard to make it much smaller.
 
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Justin_

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Well I went ahead and ordered everything (less the torque converter. See when that all shows up.


For those interested im probably in for $1100 by the time I am done just to rebuild the trans right without going crazy on anything

$440 - rebuild kit with overall kit + extras AODE/4R70W Parts
$99 - 4X4 Output shaft + housing
$21 - Direct Drum Pistons
$21 - Center Support Bushing
$87 - Direct Drum + assembly lube
$37 - Bering kit - Sonnax
$98 - Rear planet bushing + Planet assembly + Anti rattle clip
~$180 - Torque converter (not purchaced yet)
~$120 - transmission fluid (not purchaced yet)

That on top of paying $850 + 1000 miles round trip for the truck puts me in the range of $2000+ for the V8 swap at this point. Not to mention the filters, fluids, gaskets, etc that I am going to need to put into the engine.

This is why you don't add up your project costs. lol.

Well I won't need to touch this transmission for another few decades so that will be nice. (normal maintenance aside)



(Each line is a separate order including shipping costs)
 
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donalds

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Yea never add up the costs
If I did that on my projects woooo
 
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410Fortune

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gotta pay to play
when you look at the cost of new vehicles these days it gets easier to justify these expenses
I always say parts are cheap, labor is expensive, so if we do all our own labor then we can afford this shi**
 
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Justin_

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Well I have the engine ready to come out. Was going to pull it today, but realised I left my load leveler in storage a bit too late in the day. Hopefully Ill have some time to pull it tomorrow.

Im out of town this weekend and the better part of next week. After that who knows what the weather is going to do.

As much as I would like to keep everything together I really can't keep the whole vehicle until it's time for the swap. Probably going to actually swap it in April/May, whenever the weather actually warms up. Im going to do my best to pull anything that could be relevant/valuable, then i'm going to scrap the rest. Going to pull everything off the 5.0 swap list plus some extras. Probably going to keep my hands on the whole dash and most of the extra parts in the engine bay. I would rather have way too much than not enugh.

Also going to pull and try to sell the rear axle (people love those things), wheels+tires, aftermarket radio, etc. Will also be pulling lights+fuses+relays ,can never have enugh of those.
 
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CDW6212R

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Keep the V6 condenser brackets and use the V6 radiator if you can. That makes it way easier to R&R the radiator, because the condenser isn't attached to it.
 
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Justin_

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Well got a bit done today. Finished pulling out the engine. That's a huge pain with my harbor freight hoist, its right on the weight limit and the hydraulic piston kept stopping. I would pump it and nothing would happen, wouldn't even feel resistance.


Anyway

PXL_20211015_020341082.MP.jpg


The last of the trans parts are coming in over the weekend and I will be around next weekend (just not the following one, got that backwards) Hopefully I can get the trans thrown back together over next weekend.

After that all I need to do is pull a few more parts out of the truck and pack everything for the winter. I think i'll wait till spring to get all the new seals etc into the engine.

It might be a bit late to ask now, but the engine is going to sit for about the next 6 months or so, is there anything I should do to it before I throw it in storage?
 
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CDW6212R

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Do anything that you have time for now. Clean it up well, R&R all the external parts and clean them, paint etc, do the timing cover, timing chain set, the seals, oil pan, pump etc. There's a lot of things that can be done and don't take much time to do each, so any weather is okay for most of that.
 
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fastpakr

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For what it's worth, at least in my Ranger swap the V8 radiator itself works just fine. But skip the condenser brackets. Just set it in place and secure it to the core support independently from the radiator.
 
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CDW6212R

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For what it's worth, at least in my Ranger swap the V8 radiator itself works just fine. But skip the condenser brackets. Just set it in place and secure it to the core support independently from the radiator.
He is swapping the V8 into his V6 Explorer, has the V6 brackets bolted into his truck already. No sense in discarding them if you have them.
 
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fastpakr

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That wouldn't be switching him to a smaller radiator?
 
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fastpakr

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I get that, but had anticipated the factory V6 radiator under discussion being smaller.
 
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CDW6212R

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The V8 and V6 radiators are the same size, they just have slightly different mounts. The V8 is tucked forward a hair under the support, and the V6 has no plastic parts on the side to hold the condenser. But the core and tank sizes are virtually identical, and both came as either dual core or single core sizes.

I've never swapped those around myself, but I own them both and have seen three of the four possible radiators. Many others have swapped the parts to either keep the simple V6 mounting, or they wanted to get away from the V8 PITA radiator mount system.
 
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Justin_

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That wouldn't be switching him to a smaller radiator?
Some later models have single core radiators on the V6 engines, but mine has the dual core
 
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Justin_

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So a few updates here.

I started putting the transmission back together and all of the sub assemblies went well, but I had some trouble when I got to the center support bushing. Comparing the new one to the old you can see that it was VERY warn. The new one had 2 distinct parts with a separation in the middle. The old one looked like just one ring. I was able to get the old one out without too much trouble, but when I went to install the new one it ended up separating where the ends of the strip are joined into a ring. I have another on order, but won't be here till next tuesday. Im out of town from Wednesday till Tuesday following that, so it might be a bit.

I also went ahead and ordered a new torque converter.

I also went ahead and removed the rest of the important parts from the body. Engine bay wiring harness, PS cooler and lines, Throttle cable, Shift cable, Cruise motor, EVAP lines, Motor mount + rubbers, Entire dash with GEM/PATS/Key cylinder/etc, ECU, exhaust back to the cats, etc. Will also pull the V8 logos.

Anything else I should be pulling off the truck? I think I am about ready to send it to the junkyard.

I still need to get a 4406E transfer case and some driveshafts from the junkyard. I might see what I can do this weekend, or might wait till spring after a few trucks slip off the road over the winter. I figure I will pull the front+rear driveshafts from a 5.0 explorer and find an F150 for the t-case. I will try to keep everything from '98, but is there any reason I can't budge a few years either way?
 
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Justin_

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Well, still waiting for the last bushing for the transmission, so I decided to get started on the engine. Got a few photos as I was going

PXL_20211024_222153938.jpg


First thing I noticed when pulling it apart was that it was overall rather clean, and the upper intake had a lot of shiny grade 8 bolts. Either they are not original, or it was just really clean. First time taking off a metal upper, so I cant say for sure.

PXL_20211024_224451217.jpg


Also found that the spark plugs, while very warn, look like they were in a solid engine, again backing up what I felt when driving it. Happy to see that.

PXL_20211025_003850640.jpg


I just noticed the oil in the #8 cylinder when posting the photo. Will need to check that again in person.

Otherwise it went mostly smoothe. I have the upper and lower intake off, along with the valve covers and oil pan. Will be replacing all the seals and hoses as I put it back together.

I did have 2 of the upper intake bolts break when I went to remove them. I think i'm just going to bring the engine to a machine shop to get those taken care of. This is not the first time the 302/351 lower intake bolts have broken on me. With the engine already out of the truck id rather somebody else fix it this time.

I do already have replacement studs on the way to replace the lower intake bolts. Part of the reason I took off the lower intake was to take care of any broken bolts while it was out of the truck and replace them with something new.

I might be able to run the engine to a machine shop this week still, but that is probably about all I will be able to do till middle of next week. I hope I can get this all wrapped up before it starts snowing.

PXL_20211025_003846930.jpg
 
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410Fortune

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Nice! That looks pretty typical for a well used 5.0
Those bolts always look clean inside the intake, only the heads are exposed.
The front two lower intake bolts, the double post ones that hold the coil tripod, those go down into the water jacket and get corroded, so they often break.
Those spark plugs look pretty rough! How many miles were on this donor? Lots of deposits, something we should not see in a smooth running 5.0

good thing its getting a refresh now!

solid work thus far
Before you take the block into a machine shop to have fasteners extracted make sure you remove the timing cover. There are 4 bolts that go through the water pump and through the timing cover, and again into the water jacket. Those suckers like to break off as well.........

Thanks for the pics, we love pics
Waiting for parts is the new normal
 
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