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Source for SOHC hydraulic chain tensioner seal (SOLVED)

koda2000

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I was researching the Ford OEM timing chain set for my '01 SOHC and I see it includes new front and rear hydraulic chain tensioners, but it does not appear that the metal gaskets for the tensioners is included. The metal gaskets do not appear to be included in the Fel-Pro full gasket set either. Does any know if/where these metal gaskets are available separately? I don't see them listed anywhere, not even on the Tasca Ford parts site.

The Cloyes timing chain set includes the gaskets with the tensioners. It seems ridiculous to me that Ford doesn't include these gaskets with the tensioners.
 
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410Fortune

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they should be in the package with the tensioner
 
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donalds

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My ford tensioner s I bought from the dealer Did not come with one

I got the gasket from the dealership it was cheep they come in packs of one

And don't waste time looking for one online it was cheep at the dealership
 
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koda2000

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they should be in the package with the tensioner

I hope you're correct, but they they don't show them in the photo's. I was thinking that if worse came to worse I'd reuse my old gaskets, but I can't find them. I found my old tensioners in the zip-loc bag I put them in, but there are no gaskets in the bag. I probably but them somewhere for "safe keeping"... LOL.

s-l1600.jpg

f77z 6268 ab
fu37 6k254 b
 
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koda2000

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I did find this part (on Amazon of all places). The description and part number is:

Genuine Ford Washer XU2Z-6M252-AA". I also looked up the part number on eBay. The price range is $9.30 apiece and up, which seems mighty high for what it is. I'll stop by my local Ford dealer and see what they get for them.

The washers appear to have a black finish. I was thinking they were silver. I need to go back and recheck my old oily tensioners again. Maybe the old washers are there and just hard to see.

31XI-6DOiPL.jpg
 
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koda2000

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Well, I went back and got out my oily used tenioners and cleaned them up. The front tensioner had a washer still on it. They're black (as are the tensioners) and very thin metal, so they hard to see. I had to use a razor blade to get under it but I was able to remove the washer from the front tensioner. The rear tensioner didn't seem to have one on it, or maybe it's kind of fused with the tensioner. I had replaced the front tensioner as part of the Ford 00M12 kit. It had turned out my engine already had the 00M12 anti-drain-back straw in the oil passage, so I didn't bother to use the one that came in the kit. I went looking for the straw and found it along with a brand new galley plug and tensioner washer still in the bag. I may use the used washer for the rear tensioner (or I may just buy a new one) and I'll use the new one I have from the the 00M12 parts bag on the front tensioner. Sometimes it pays to be a pack rat.
 
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koda2000

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That black finish is like a kind of rubber coating
That's why I don't reuse them

You may be right, but to me the washer seems to be made of a kind of spring-steel. When i remove the new one I have from its bag I'll examine it closely and if it appears to have a special coating on it I'll be sure to get another new one. I think the real purpose for this washer is to allow the hard steel tensioner to be torqued properly against the aluminum head w/out galling the aluminum. It's not really a gasket, but if not used you'll get a heck of an oil leak.
 
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410Fortune

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yes very important a new one is used and installed properly
any sort of a knick or debris or anything off and you will have one heck of a leak to fix
I have had to file the head before in order to correct a nice steady stream of oil.... a light coat of rtv was also used on the final install on that one. Removing the thermostat housing and intake over and over got old!
The 2004+ intake is soooo much nicer
 
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koda2000

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yes very important a new one is used and installed properly
any sort of a knick or debris or anything off and you will have one heck of a leak to fix
I have had to file the head before in order to correct a nice steady stream of oil.... a light coat of rtv was also used on the final install on that one. Removing the thermostat housing and intake over and over got old!
The 2004+ intake is soooo much nicer

On my 2001 late production Job 2 SOHC the intake is one piece and easy to remove and seal. I didn't take the intake off to replace the front tensioner, just the TB and top on the t-stat housing. I'm pretty sure I just reused the old washer (as I still have the new unused washer in the bag). I put a little grease on the tensioner and head to hold the washer in place, screwed it in and torqued it to spec. I used no sealant and It never leaked. Maybe I was just lucky. It's tricky to start the tensioner straight in the head because of the spring tension. I may have used a dab of anti-seize on the tensioner's threads. Cross thread it and you're screwed. I'll probably pick up a second new washer for the rear tensioner just cause.
 
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C420sailor

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Are you guys replacing these tensioners at intervals? My ‘11 Ranger motor has 136k on the rear tensioner and about 100k on the front one, and I’m on the fence about pre-emptively replacing them.

I’m terrified of eating another set of cassettes.
 
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410Fortune

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not lucky, I replaced about 50 of those things and had one leak
The leak could not be stopped took like 4 attempts! I used a flat file and some permatex on the final seal #5, it finally held

I usually end up replacing the tensioners because my customers / friends trucks start to tick on cold starts.....I do not own any SOHC engines myself, I just fix them :)
Always replace both tensioners at same time, it is just good practice.Only use FORD parts....trust me on this. I tried to use the Cloyes parts you get at auto parts stores. Seriously Cloyes makes them for Ford so we would think sweet Im gonna use the cheaper Cloyes parts.....ends up costing you money because you will have to go back and buy the Ford tensioners.

OR

You can run manual chain tensioners and be done with it (WAY CHEAPER).
If I ever do own a SOHC engine I will run manual tensioners....I run the manual tensioners in our Polaris Rzr's (118 HP, 999cc DOHC 4 valve per piston 4 stroke 2 cyl, high performance engines shipped with Ford tensioners from Polaris....tick tick tick whne brand new!!)
 
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koda2000

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I've heard it recommended that the hydraulic tensioners (front and rear) be replaced every 75K, My SOHC had 184K on it when I got it. It started having front chain noise at around 190K, I replaced my front tensioner but it didn't stop the noise. The hydraulic tensioners can only absorb so much chain slack, and that's only once oil pressure comes up. Some here have tried the manually adjustable Polaris tensioners with success. I had a broken rear cassette, a slack front cassette chain and broken jack shaft tensioner. I'm currently rebuilding my engine. The real fix for the poor design of these engines is to install a pre-oiler, which I plan to do once the engine is back in the truck.
 
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410Fortune

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Yes thanks to Polaris choice to use Ford parts in their SOHC engines the fact that BRAND NEW 2014 and 2015 models would tick at cold start............we have aftermarket support for our Fords!!
Nothing like spending $20K+ for a toy only to have valve clatter at cold start.
Polaris was no help....just said the noise is normal.
I knew better...so did others like me, and the manual chain tensioner was born! They used to be like $350 a set...now like 6 years later and thousands of Polaris 570-999cc engines later cheap ones can be had for $60. Either way they work EXCELLENT, no more noise for us on our 14 and 15 XP1K's

Pretty sure for 98-04 SOHC engines Ford said 90K miles to replace tensioners.
I know 0 people who have replaced the tensioners at 90K but I know hundreds of people who will replace their toyota or Subaru timing belts at the recommended intervals....to avoid timing damage right? Why won't Ford owners do the same?
 
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C420sailor

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How do they manual tensioners work? Do they require periodic adjustment?
 
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allmyEXes

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I have had a manual tensioner in one of mine for a year and a half ~25K miles and have not had to adjust it since the original installation.
Here is a picture of the first manual tensioner that I used. I have also installed one in the left (drivers side) cylinder head of my white '97 and it is working fine.
tens01.jpg

Now the new ones come with the copper washer.
Manual Cam Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket Fit Polaris RZR 900 XP Stainless Steel | eBay
I have purchased one for a little less $$ than this one on E-bay.
 
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XLTrunner

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If you're trying to be preemptive by replacing the tensioner before you start hearing the ticking, how do you know what the proper adjustment is with the manual tensioners?
 
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410Fortune

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its easy
tighten with fingers until it stops
back up 1/4 turn, smash down the jam nut.
done

Consider this before your tensioners pump up with oil pressure the chain is SLACK
slack in the chain has your engine running out of time, chain is slapping around hard on the nylon guides....... tick tick tick tick on cold starts...........
With manual tensioner they are never allowed to go slack
 
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