sourcing parts for front end rebuild, some questions.

[mjjstang]

Hi, I have been doing a lot of searching and educating myself on the front end of my 1997 SOHC 4x4 110k miles, but there are some things that I want to throw out there for reaffirmation.

Basically, I am pretty confident my diff is leaking from all 4 spots. (cover, 2 axels, and pinion). I also have an ABS issue that I am hoping is just the rear sensor. (parts on the way to diagnose that issue. Hoping it is rear and not either of the fronts.)

I have decided that when doing this work, I would do the ball-joints and other things that are easily done now.

So to start, with the differential:

1. I have a Dana/Spicer 35, and not a IFS correct?

2. In addition to replacing pinion and both axle seals, should I replace bearings or bearing and race? or should I just worry about seals for now. (I just don't want a situation where by replacing certain things like bearings, and not the axles themselves, I would be doing more damage?) I am hoping that there is no major wear on the shafts, but this leads me to another issue.

3. I have found all types of parts online, but I am not getting a good idea of what axle shafts are in the diff itself. Pictures from a factory manual aren't helping, and as far as I know, the interior axles ride on the bearings correct? or do the CV shafts take the brunt? If the interior axles are the ones that will be worn down, does anybody know part numbers, I might as well just replace these.

4. To replace the U-Joints and boots, etc will cost about 20 per side. New Half-shafts are about 50 a piece. I have no issues with them now, but I figured for 50 each, should I just get new CV shafts and call it a day?

5. If the ABS problem turns out to be from the rear sensor, then I was thinking about leaving the front hubs alone, and just replace all 4 ball-joints. Without spending much money, are there any cheap things I should do with the spindles/hubs that would improve life, and not require purchasing a whole set? If the ABS is not fixed by rear, then I think I will just buy 2 new hubs with ABS installed.

6. I think my alignment is ok, but I figured I would get it done anyway, which would give me a good reason to throw on new outer tie rod ends. There shouldn't be anything else necessary up there that would affect alignment would there?

I just want to make sure that while I am up front, disassembling everything, that I am getting everything that I can to improve the life of the car. I am going cheap here, but I will pay for things like moog joints, like I said, I am trying to maximize the life as well. I just really don't have reason to do this in the first place, other than trying to stop fluid from leaking out of the diff. There is no immediate issue and the car actually drives pretty swell, we added a zerk to one of the ball joints a couple years back, that was making all sorts of noises, so it will be nice to freshen up the FE, but I am in no dire need to spend lots of cash, plus I will be purchasing some tools that I should already own by now, (pullers, removers, press, etc.)

I realize a couple of these questions could be searched better, but I have been here all day trying to get the info I need, and I think I am just about worn out. Thanks for any information I really appreciate it.

 

[techieman33]

Hi, I have been doing a lot of searching and educating myself on the front end of my 1997 SOHC 4x4 110k miles, but there are some things that I want to throw out there for reaffirmation.

Basically, I am pretty confident my diff is leaking from all 4 spots. (cover, 2 axels, and pinion). I also have an ABS issue that I am hoping is just the rear sensor. (parts on the way to diagnose that issue. Hoping it is rear and not either of the fronts.)

I have decided that when doing this work, I would do the ball-joints and other things that are easily done now.

So to start, with the differential:

1. I have a Dana/Spicer 35, and not a IFS correct?.

It's an IFS dana 35 unit that's exclusive to 2nd gen explorers.

2. In addition to replacing pinion and both axle seals, should I replace bearings or bearing and race? or should I just worry about seals for now. (I just don't want a situation where by replacing certain things like bearings, and not the axles themselves, I would be doing more damage?) I am hoping that there is no major wear on the shafts, but this leads me to another issue.

3. I have found all types of parts online, but I am not getting a good idea of what axle shafts are in the diff itself. Pictures from a factory manual aren't helping, and as far as I know, the interior axles ride on the bearings correct? or do the CV shafts take the brunt? If the interior axles are the ones that will be worn down, does anybody know part numbers, I might as well just replace these. [/QUOTE]

While your in there you might as well replace the bearings, you shouldn't have to replace the axles, I've never seen one that was worn enough to need replacing. The inner axles ride on the bearings.

4. To replace the U-Joints and boots, etc will cost about 20 per side. New Half-shafts are about 50 a piece. I have no issues with them now, but I figured for 50 each, should I just get new CV shafts and call it a day?

Just replace the etire cv axle, it's cheaper and easier in the long run then trying to rebuild it.

5. If the ABS problem turns out to be from the rear sensor, then I was thinking about leaving the front hubs alone, and just replace all 4 ball-joints. Without spending much money, are there any cheap things I should do with the spindles/hubs that would improve life, and not require purchasing a whole set? If the ABS is not fixed by rear, then I think I will just buy 2 new hubs with ABS installed.

There isn't anything you can do to the hubs without replacing them, they're totally sealed and not servicable.

6. I think my alignment is ok, but I figured I would get it done anyway, which would give me a good reason to throw on new outer tie rod ends. There shouldn't be anything else necessary up there that would affect alignment would there?

You will need a new alignment after replacing the upper control arms, unless you already have aftermarket uppers. You can't replace just the ball joint in the factory uppers. If you want to replace just the ball joint in the future, I suggest the moog replacements since you can replace the joint in those. Also if your replacing the outer tie-rod ends you might as well replace the inners, it's not that much more work and they're pretty inexpensive.

I just want to make sure that while I am up front, disassembling everything, that I am getting everything that I can to improve the life of the car. I am going cheap here, but I will pay for things like moog joints, like I said, I am trying to maximize the life as well. I just really don't have reason to do this in the first place, other than trying to stop fluid from leaking out of the diff. There is no immediate issue and the car actually drives pretty swell, we added a zerk to one of the ball joints a couple years back, that was making all sorts of noises, so it will be nice to freshen up the FE, but I am in no dire need to spend lots of cash, plus I will be purchasing some tools that I should already own by now, (pullers, removers, press, etc.)

I realize a couple of these questions could be searched better, but I have been here all day trying to get the info I need, and I think I am just about worn out. Thanks for any information I really appreciate it.

For how to's check out this page, mountaineer green has done excellent write ups on most of the tasks you'll be performing
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1784849

 

[mjjstang]

Wow, this was exactly what I needed, I was actually contemplating the inner rods as well.

This also clears up the confusion of why I could not find much for upper joints by them selves, and all the moog arms out there with oversize joints etc.

I don't want to get inside of the diff, but there is only one bearing inside correct? So I will probably just replace the ones that are serviceable from outside. I seem to remember that these can be done without ripping the unit apart. Correct me if I am wrong.

The last thing is just to touch up on the unit itself, I was reading threads here that said basically all explorers were Dana 35, and also read where people posted part numbers, and the numbers for the seals were in fact for NON IFS units, that would mean there is a conflict in who was right, also I am entering my car in sites and they are spitting out parts for all three, (the IFS, 35, and 28). You seem pretty well learned, so I am going to go with you. Thanks again for your timely and thorough response. It was a huge help.

Oh, and that link is invaluable, I don't know how I didn't get directed to it sooner. Thank you, thank you!!!!

 

[techieman33]

the outer bearing and axle seal can be replaced without taking the unit apart, you won't even need to remove it from the vehicle. The seals can be hard to find, as a lot of stores have the wrong part numbers in their systems. I know that napa has the right ones, and haven't had much luck getting the right ones from other stores.
here is a picture of the passenger side seal so you'll know what you looking for you you get it
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=53045&stc=1&d=1233950406

 

[mjjstang]

Great thanks, I think I am on the right track now. A few hundred bux and a weekend should take care of this.