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Spark plug help needed

TXExplrPlt17

Elite Explorer
Joined
May 6, 2019
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2017 Explorer Platinum
Hi All,
Doing a lot to my truck this week. One repair will be the spark plugs. I got a 5 Star Tune and the 93 ran like crap. In reading on here, it must be the spark plugs. There is also a lot of hesitation (before the tune, so it's got to be the plugs). My questions: how do I change the spark plugs? I've never done it on any vehicle and can't find anything on YouTube. I've got a 2017 Platinum. I'm getting the NGK iridiums, but do I need new wires, too? If so, which wires do you recommend? What else do I need for this repair? Tools? Other parts? Thanks.
 



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Not hard at all. There are no wires, just have to remove the ignition coil packs that are on each plug. Just unplug each of them, carefully remove the one (I think it is 8mm?) bolt, then use a plug socket to remove the old plugs. Reverse for install. Like a 30 minute job...MAX. The rear ones are a pain to get to but still not hard.

Install tip: Use a 6-8" section of fuel hose (I think 3/8" ID, IIRC) that squeezes onto the end of the new spark plug to hand turn it so as not to cross-thread. Not 100% necessary, but really helps alot.

But I have to say, if you are uncomfortable changing plugs (considered probably the most basic level of maintenance, second only to changing an air filter), it might be a better idea you take it somewhere...
 






BTW, what gap did you place them to? I know you "technically" don't gap iridiums, but it is quite necessary when a tune is done. LMS goes to 0.030" (but I never listen to those guys), most other places gap to 0.028", I've got mine gapped to 0.026". Although I really like NGK, most folks go for the Ford Motorcraft SP-542 (not any of the replacments) plugs as they have a very good reputation for being reliable. I think they might even be rebranded NGKs IIRC. They are getting harder to find as Ford has a subsequent version, but still not as popular as the 542s.

I personally run a set of Brisk Silver Racing RR12YS plugs that have treated me well.

But, alas, plugs are like motor oil...it can turn into a heated debate, lol. Loyalty runs deep when it comes to both.
 






Not hard at all. There are no wires, just have to remove the ignition coil packs that are on each plug. Just unplug each of them, carefully remove the one (I think it is 8mm?) bolt, then use a plug socket to remove the old plugs. Reverse for install. Like a 30 minute job...MAX. The rear ones are a pain to get to but still not hard.

Install tip: Use a 6-8" section of fuel hose (I think 3/8" ID, IIRC) that squeezes onto the end of the new spark plug to hand turn it so as not to cross-thread. Not 100% necessary, but really helps alot.

But I have to say, if you are uncomfortable changing plugs (considered probably the most basic level of maintenance, second only to changing an air filter), it might be a better idea you take it somewhere...

BTW, what gap did you place them to? I know you "technically" don't gap iridiums, but it is quite necessary when a tune is done. LMS goes to 0.030" (but I never listen to those guys), most other places gap to 0.028", I've got mine gapped to 0.026". Although I really like NGK, most folks go for the Ford Motorcraft SP-542 (not any of the replacments) plugs as they have a very good reputation for being reliable. I think they might even be rebranded NGKs IIRC. They are getting harder to find as Ford has a subsequent version, but still not as popular as the 542s.

I personally run a set of Brisk Silver Racing RR12YS plugs that have treated me well.

But, alas, plugs are like motor oil...it can turn into a heated debate, lol. Loyalty runs deep when it comes to both.
Thanks a bunch for the tips. I love working on my cars, but I've never attempted to do anything but air filters and minor stuff (lights, debadging, etc.). Just got told by my girl that she changed the spark plugs in her car, soooo I kinda need to do this lol.

Haven't gapped them yet, but sounds like .030 is recommended. I don't know. Friend said he did it on his Expedition with the 5 Star Tune and it ran great.

I know about debates and cars haha. Everyone has an opinion on what is best. I'm just trying to get good products in mine. I'll take a look at the 542s.

Thanks a bunch again.
 






Hi All,
Doing a lot to my truck this week. One repair will be the spark plugs. I got a 5 Star Tune and the 93 ran like crap. In reading on here, it must be the spark plugs. There is also a lot of hesitation (before the tune, so it's got to be the plugs). My questions: how do I change the spark plugs? I've never done it on any vehicle and can't find anything on YouTube. I've got a 2017 Platinum. I'm getting the NGK iridiums, but do I need new wires, too? If so, which wires do you recommend? What else do I need for this repair? Tools? Other parts? Thanks.
Using the handy 'Search' feature I found these;

Peter
 






Using the handy 'Search' feature I found these;

Peter
Thanks a bunch, man. I searched but none of these came up. I was also inundated with work, so couldn't completely focus.
 






Defn'tly watch some videos. I've done mine last year or so, and I forget if you have to remove the intake plenum to get to the back 3. I have an 2014 with 3.5L V6 (not Ecoboost and no turbos), so YMMV (your mileage may vary).
But, if you do have to remove it, it's not difficult.
 






Basic removal/installation is not overly complicated. I never had a chance to change mine before trade but if anything like my Taurus SHO the back plugs at least for that vehicle I removed the strut tower cross brace. Very simple, look for the bolts I believe the inboard bolts for the strut tower also connect the cross brace.

AutoZone and I am sure you can find them on Amazon has a spark plug socket that has lasted me over ten years and multiple vehicles well worth the $20...back in 2009 but you get the idea.

Regular Spark Plug Socket but with a twist. 5/8 Deep Well socket, has the plug insulator, small magnet and six inch extension built in and basically one stop shopping. The extension built as part of the socket so no need to worry about the extension falling out of the socket. Extension has a small universal built in for helping adjust the angle. You can add extensions to the original but I believe I only had to do that once. The extension also acts as a handle for the socket to help thread into the spark plug well

This is the link from AutoZone. I stand corrected the extension is 10" 3/8 drive 5/8 internal diameter. The 10" Could be slightly tight on the back bank but they worked perfect on my Taurus. Price even down over the years not up.

I have used that plug to change plugs on about five different vehicles and it has worked as advertised un until the Infiniti which is smaller. I changed plugs on Audi, Volvo, Ford at least. Good news is if you are buying the plugs from A/Z you can test the fit right in the store.


Plugs themselves small dab of Die Electric Grease on the plug tip, some Anti-Seize for the threads and of course start by hand. Personally I use regular sockets on Spark Plugs to...…."Protect me from my self" and significantly reduce the risk of over tightening. The socket/extension combination also has the rubber boots in the socket so pretty much fool proof system and in my opinion has paid for itself multiple times.

One more hopefully constructive suggestion and take it or not.

When I open the new plug and prep the new plug for installation, (Anti-Seize, Die Electric Grease, check gap etc....Yes Even pre gapped plugs need to be checked for shipping damage, hairline fractures on the electrode.


What I do is take the new plug, but KEEP the boxes. When I remove the old plug I place the new plug into the same cylinder. I label the box with the cylinder number (#1-6) This allows me to review the old plugs later to compare against wear charts. If there are any abnormalities in the wear pattern you can isolate the abnormality to that particular cylinder. Plus you can review the wear chart and abnormality in the comfort of inside with A/C and not in the hot, sticky garage.

I even went to far as to label the Coil Pack with a contrasting color permanent marker....again #1-6.

Hope these fairly simple life hacks will help.
 






Basic removal/installation is not overly complicated. I never had a chance to change mine before trade but if anything like my Taurus SHO the back plugs at least for that vehicle I removed the strut tower cross brace. Very simple, look for the bolts I believe the inboard bolts for the strut tower also connect the cross brace.

AutoZone and I am sure you can find them on Amazon has a spark plug socket that has lasted me over ten years and multiple vehicles well worth the $20...back in 2009 but you get the idea.

Regular Spark Plug Socket but with a twist. 5/8 Deep Well socket, has the plug insulator, small magnet and six inch extension built in and basically one stop shopping. The extension built as part of the socket so no need to worry about the extension falling out of the socket. Extension has a small universal built in for helping adjust the angle. You can add extensions to the original but I believe I only had to do that once. The extension also acts as a handle for the socket to help thread into the spark plug well

This is the link from AutoZone. I stand corrected the extension is 10" 3/8 drive 5/8 internal diameter. The 10" Could be slightly tight on the back bank but they worked perfect on my Taurus. Price even down over the years not up.

I have used that plug to change plugs on about five different vehicles and it has worked as advertised un until the Infiniti which is smaller. I changed plugs on Audi, Volvo, Ford at least. Good news is if you are buying the plugs from A/Z you can test the fit right in the store.


Plugs themselves small dab of Die Electric Grease on the plug tip, some Anti-Seize for the threads and of course start by hand. Personally I use regular sockets on Spark Plugs to...…."Protect me from my self" and significantly reduce the risk of over tightening. The socket/extension combination also has the rubber boots in the socket so pretty much fool proof system and in my opinion has paid for itself multiple times.

One more hopefully constructive suggestion and take it or not.

When I open the new plug and prep the new plug for installation, (Anti-Seize, Die Electric Grease, check gap etc....Yes Even pre gapped plugs need to be checked for shipping damage, hairline fractures on the electrode.


What I do is take the new plug, but KEEP the boxes. When I remove the old plug I place the new plug into the same cylinder. I label the box with the cylinder number (#1-6) This allows me to review the old plugs later to compare against wear charts. If there are any abnormalities in the wear pattern you can isolate the abnormality to that particular cylinder. Plus you can review the wear chart and abnormality in the comfort of inside with A/C and not in the hot, sticky garage.

I even went to far as to label the Coil Pack with a contrasting color permanent marker....again #1-6.

Hope these fairly simple life hacks will help.

Great write up. Notes.

1) No need to remove strut tower bar, can reach them just fine. There are some wire harnesses that are in the way, but not overly hard to move to the side.

2) Yes, start by hand, but use that 6"-8" long fuel hose that just pops on the body of the plug and twist it by hand that way...way easier than using a socket...trust me. If you look inside one of those "plug sockets", you'll notice, that's all it really is...a piece of rubber hose jammed into the end of a standard socket...
 






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