Spark plug wires for TMH? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Spark plug wires for TMH?

Whatever is on hand and cuts grease you will be golden

Nothing too strong it’s not necessary

Most of it comes off just from wiping w a rag I use old t shirts
Wife buys me bags of rags from the goodwill
I buy purple power in 20 gallon container once every 3-5 years it goes a long way
 



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Calling @410Fortune again. Sorry, keep having questions pop up and you;ve got more experience than anyone else I know about.

Will a double sump oil pan fit the SLA Ranger/Explorer frame?

I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket while the engine is out. This was a northern truck and the oil pan on this thing isn't looking that great. I've got a clean double sump pan from when I was planning to do the swap on a TIB Ranger. If it will fit I'll use it, if not I'll order a new one. I'd rather not wait until I'm dropping the engine in to find out and put things on hold waiting.

EDITL ...or maybe I need to give it a better look. It is an oil pan, the one on my F-100 was nice under the grime after 50+ years of service. Maybe it's just looking ugly from dirt and surface rust. If so, then a quick wire wheel and rattle can will be a lot better option than buying new. If not, Amazon can deliver in a few days.

What do you use for wrapping harnesses?

I've got plenty of 3M Super 33 that's my normal go to electrical tape. I've read online that the factory uses a non adhesive tape for wrapping and not to use adhesive type because of the heat in the engine bay. I'm thinking the 3M stuff will be fine in there, it does have a decent temp rating IIRC. If not, I'll try to order in some non-adhesive, but I really don't know what I'm looking for/at there.
 






I use habor freight vinyl tape because the adhesive is so weak it’s much like the factory wrap! I finish off the ends w zip ties to keep it from unraveling. Re use factory plastic loom and all flexible protective sections. I use “friction tape” at bends and unions that is the only name I know it by… again similar to factory.

I am not sure if the dual sump pan will work with the sla engine cradle? I have never tried! We typically use the 98-01 explorer stamped metal pan and stock pickup tube for a nice clean look and fit.
The dual sump pan works well in the ttb trucks, like my bronco

There are no bad questions
 






I use habor freight vinyl tape because the adhesive is so weak it’s much like the factory wrap! I finish off the ends w zip ties to keep it from unraveling. Re use factory plastic loom and all flexible protective sections. I use “friction tape” at bends and unions that is the only name I know it by… again similar to factory.

I am not sure if the dual sump pan will work with the sla engine cradle? I have never tried! We typically use the 98-01 explorer stamped metal pan and stock pickup tube for a nice clean look and fit.
The dual sump pan works well in the ttb trucks, like my bronco

There are no bad questions

May not be any bad questions, but that doesn't mean I like that I keep asking them. I do like and appreciate that I have access to people that don't mind answering them.

Was planning to reuse the factory loom, should have enough. If not, I've a few sizes on the shelf from past projects.

HF vinyl tape... I was probably heading by there tomorrow to get some walnut shell blast media anyway. Going to strip old paint off these Mustang valve covers I have and see if I can clean up the oxidation on the spare intake and acessory brackets. Would like to paint a few pieces if weather cooperates. I'll pick up some of the tape while I'm there.

Friction tape? Looks like it might be a cloth electrical tape. Comparing pictures on a google search, I've got a few rolls of cloth electrical "Tesa Tape" that look very similar. Don't know if it is the same stuff.
 






Yes cloth electrical tape is a good way to put it… funny thing is I never seem to buy the stuff but always have a roll in the shop!

There are plenty of us out here who love and breathe these trucks… the trick is finding the ones who are still on the forums and never left to join Facebook groups lol lol
 






Hey @410Fortune bringing this back up to ask a related question.

Do you have any links to where you;ve prepared and laid out the plug wires before? I know I've seen it, but I can't recall where.

Got my swap up and running mostly. Need to fix the AC and I think I destroyed a u-joint on Sunday. Taking the trailer up to grandma's tomorrow to retrieve it and diagnose.

I got the SKP wires installed and they are working well. I need to go through and do some better routing and I'd also like to install some additional heat shielding. I'd like to peruse your posts for routing inspiration.

For heat shielding I'm leaning towards the Kingsborne Boot Insulators where shields weren't provided, maybe in place of those too, and might install some heat reflective sleeving on the last foot or so of the wire near the headers. For next set of wire's I'm planning to go custom built with ceramic plug boots, but this set was just right to get the truck going.
 






Starts on post 901

You do not need that
Much heat shielding! Good wires only need 1-1.5” of airspace between header and bare wire

 






I'm running a mix of OEM shields and 6" sleeves with my TMHs. I mixed and matched the wires with convenient lengths and swapped the shields accordingly (just pry the tabs with a hose pick/screwdriver and pop them apart).
1712078370213.png


I also moved one of the plug wire clip brackets to the back of the right head and ran the #4 wire around back.
1712078286479.png


I like stuff to look factory, so I used a bunch of different plug wire clips I snagged from the salvage yard to keep things tidy.
1712078387530.png


1712078399857.png


If you already bought some longer insulated sleeve material, I recommend using it on the fuel line and front right brake line where they run along the headers.
1712078487300.png
1712078493732.png
 












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