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Spark Plugs!!!

tylergabriel

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April 22, 2009
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City, State
Oregon City, Oregon
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 XLT Explorer
Hey everyone! I have a 1994 Exploder Xlt 4.0 ltr automatic. I wanted to replace my spark plugs yesterday (after inspecting one I noticed they are in pretty bad shape!) however my Haynes manual does not really show you the process of changing all 6 plugs and all 6 wires on a 4.0 litre. My friend I looked at the plugs the lineup of were they are is very difficult I think I need to remove a bounch of parts to access most of them. CAN ANYBODY HELP??? pictures would be ****!
 



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marragtop

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balt, md
Year, Model & Trim Level
91, 92, 95, and 2000 xlts
Get to them through the wheel wells. There are many on this in the forum.
 






Hucks52786

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May 24, 2009
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Goose Creek, S.C.
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 XLT
It's not easy but with a few extensions and a universal joint you can get them all. Going through the wheel well will make the back ones soooo much easier. You shouldn't have to remove anything.
 






MrQ

Smokey the clutch is; Missed shift you did
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Houston, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 EB, '93 Limited
Check the thread in my sig.
 






marragtop

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The only thing you may have to remove is some skin from your knuckles...!!
 






loner4u69

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Forest Grove, Oregon
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91 XLT
Its alot easier with a body lift lol
 






john93rangerstx

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City, State
warwick ri
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 rangers stx
I DID IT ON MY 93 RANGER AND IS WAS NOT THAT BAD THE HARD ONE IS ON THE PASAGER SIDE BACK BUT JUST DONT USE A extension AND THE RACHET AND SOCKET WILL JUST FIT IN THERE
 






arco777

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1994 Explorer 2dr 4x4
Replacing plugs and wires isn't too bad. I have never gone through the fenderwells but I hear it's easier. Pulling the boots off is the only part I hate because when they come off my knuckles bounce off metal parts and leave skin behind. The wires are easy to replace, there's plenty of room to reach around the back of the intake and unclip them. Make sure when you put the new ones in to keep them routed through the same clips and off of hot components.

If replacing plugs and wires at the same time, a few tips.

Replace one plug and one wire at a time so you don't mix up the order. For best results gap the plugs properly (I think .056 to .062, but check the sticker near your fan to be sure), then put some anti-seize compound on the threads before screwing them in. You can use a short piece of rubber hose to thread them in hard to reach areas - slip it over the tip and thread plugs in with it, it won't strip the metal that way if you crossthread. Run the plugs in snug but don't reef on them, too much torque can break things. Put silicone dielectric compound on the metal tips. Push the boot all they way on, wiggle it and tug on it gently to be sure it's seated.

Don't use the Bosch plugs, they don't provide any performance gains (I have tried them twice) and are unnecessarily expensive... try Motorcraft platinums or even Autolites. For wires, the Bosch premiums are not that great either, I had a brand new one where the connector was loose on the wire inside the boot and it made poor contact.

Good luck!
 






dect

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City, State
Jalisco
Year, Model & Trim Level
ranger 2wd sup 98 xlt
Go trough the wheel well , remove the wheel , the mud skirt , and from there you can change the 3 passenger side spark plugs within 20 minutes.
 






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