Spdrcer34 is going V8!.... | Page 21 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Spdrcer34 is going V8!....

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I have been having issues with my Factory Keyless Entry not working with the keyfob all of the time. For those not up to Speed, I am using a COMPLETE 1997 Explorer wiring Harness in my 1992. And I use the Unlock feature as the trigger for the Opening Solenoid on the Drivers Door.

I have been searching for a LONG time on ways to add the KeyPad that is NORMALLY on the drivers door, to somewhere on my Vehicle.

I FINALLY found a home for it.

I had to get a SPARE one, and use the heatgun to warm up the plastic to flatten it out in a large enough area to mount the keypad.

Ryan

omg wow! amazing!
 



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Okay....after a couple years with a Stock 5.0L with TMH's, an Intake Spacer, MAC intake, and Screamin' Deamon Coils....

...I needed more power...


So I have been collecting parts, and getting it all together:

Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 170 Heads, Ported
Trick Flow Track Heat Intake, Ported also, incl. port matched to the heads.
Trick Flow 75mm Throttle Body
Trick Flow Track Max Cam (a.k.a. Stage 1)
Harland Sharp 1.6 Roller Rockers
Billet Fuel Rail
30lb Injectors
Lightning MAF
Innovate Wideband O2
And enough Aeroquip Fittings to keep them in business another week or so...

All this will be tuned by Henson Performance....via XCal3

Ryan
 






Very nice Ryan, I like almost every one of those choices. That is a good list for a strong 302 engine.

You don't really need 30's, but there's not much difference in price for new injectors of similar sizes.

I wouldn't go with that cam though, the power isn't as good as advertised by TFS, and members of SBFtech seem to say they've done much better with a custom cam, or virtually the same with the HO cam. I'd invest $100 or so extra to have a cam made for that engine and the truck. Also follow the cam designer's recommendations closely about valve springs, those are secret power makers(or losers).
:salute:
 






I thought about getting a Custom Cam. Money is not the issue. Neither is time. I have worked with Jay Allen before on other engines, and was talking to him a couple years ago when I put this engine in. As many know, he has since been out sick for some time. I have also worked with Harold Brookshire, a Custom Cam GOD....

But after I looked at everything out there, OTS, and custom.....the Stage1 cam was a good choice for a decent street engine in my X....

I may run 1.7 Rockers on my Stage1.....but I need to get it all together first...

Ryan
 






As for the injectors, I spoke with Woody @ Ford Strokers, and he even recommended the 30lb injectors, along with the LMAF..

Ryan
 






I agree on the injectors, because starting with new parts is wise, and with a tune you can make several sizes do the job. If the engine would never need much more fuel, a 24 would likely be enough, but the 30 is a decent upgrade too. Jon had 42's on his 347, and I have 30's for mine.

The cam is a whole different issue though. I agree that Jay is no longer the place to go, but there are lots of other great people to deal with. I like TFS as the best source for heads and intakes, but I don't believe that they are making cams any better than other aftermarket companies. It's an OTS cam made for a generic application. I hope it works okay for you, but I would never buy a non specific cam when a true custom cam is so little more.

The average OTS cam is around $200-250, some a hair less, and some a lot more. Most custom cams should run $300 to $400 depending on the maker. The valve spring information provided with a custom cam is almost as valuable as the actual cam. People don't realize that. The valvetrain is so critical to achieving the full potential of the cam and engine, plus the best life expectancy of the valvetrain.

Just like you did with the trans, body work, etc, take your time and put it together as well as possible. You are doing great with your projects, keep it up.
:thumbsup:
 






It will need more fuel....believe me...lol

I need to drop the fuel tank and upgrade the pump. The one that is in there is the original one from when the 97 (donor X, for those not following 100%) was built...

Ryan
 






Which tank did you use, I've forgotten? Didn't you swap to the 97 tank, to get the extra tank sensors and use the late harness? I ask because it reminds me I need to see if I can do anything to adapt the later tank openings to the early 93 tank I have. I'm going to use the plastic tank because it hold more gas, but the later tank sensors/pickup parts are better.
 






I used a 1997 Sport Tank in my 1992. I bought it, and installed it a few years before I actually bought the totalled 1997 Explorer 4 door.

The metal 2nd Gen 4 door tank is a little longer, and goes forward a bit more than the plastic 1st gen tank. If you take the 2nd Gen forward mounting plate off, and install it in place of the 1st Gen tanks Front plate, the dimensions are perfect. I think I had to drill 2 new holes (3/8-1/2") in the frame to bolt the 2nd Gen plate to my `92.

I hope that was clear enough....

And on a side note, I just got off the phone with James (Henson) and I ordered a Xcal3 and an analog cable for datalogging..

Ryan
 






Starting the build-up....

Here we are with a totally bare short block....
 

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One of the MOST important steps:

Degreeing the cam!
 

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simply amazing i just read all 21 pages and all i have to say is wow. When i pick up my 93 on friday i would love to do a v8 swap just not as elaborate as the one you did.
 






Thanks,

There are hundreds if not over a 1,000 hours this Explorer alone...

And I'm not done...

Ryan
 






How do you plan to run the WC T5 behind the OBD-II 5.0L?
you will have to remove the trans functions from the PCM or it will not run right

$450 is a score! How many miles on it?

accualy swaping from auto to stick dont hert its the outher way. did lots of reserch before doing it to my stang
 






Got some parts installed today...
 

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In that last pic you can see the studs I fabricated from the OEM Intake Bolts.

I ground the heads down (read: NOT CUT OFF) to the same diameter as the bolt shaft, then used my Dremel Tool to cut a slot in the head so I could use a Flathead screwdriver to remove them once the lower intake was installed.

If you look closely at the pic where I cut the slots, you can still see the markings that were once on the top of the bolt.
 

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Intake installed....
 

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Fuel Injectors, and Fuel Rail installed...
 

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One last shot before it started getting dark, and I shut it down for the night.
 

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Excellent work, well done.
 






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