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Sport Trac Audio Upgrade....info would be appreciated

stryfe

Active Member
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May 10, 2009
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City, State
Louisiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
08 Sport Trac XLT
Hello,

I picked up a 08 Sport Trac XLT last week....love the truck but the audio is lacking. I'm spoiled to the stock system in my Sierra.

I'm not looking for anything drastic....just want a little better quality, fuller sound with maybe a little bass. Looking to spend around $500-$700

Is the head unit decent? I would like to keep it because of the steering wheel controls and 6 disc changer, but I'd be willing to replace it if its total crap.

I think I've read on this forum that the door speakers are 5x7s, could larger speakers, like 6x9s be used without having to modify anything.

What is the biggest sub that will fit behind the back seat?

I recall seeing something about a 7" stock sub....sounds odd to me, but I am by no means an audiophile.

And finally should I include an amp....and if so....what size?

Any information would be appreciated
 



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Get a 200ish dollar headunit, something name brand, NOT jensen or cheapies like that, most sonys are compatable with the steering wheel controls, you just gotta buy a plug for them, buy your stuff off of Crutchfield.com, theyll send you what you need + more.

As for speakers, upgrade to a 3 way, at least 100 watts a piece, and a sub, you would love the powered enclosures, small, built in amp, and they really kick
 






So are you saying that the stock head unit is garbage?

Thanks for the information
 






Fellow I spoke to @ a local shop is recommending Memphis Audio.....are they decent?
 






Nothing wrong with Memphis at all. Their amps are very good (Korean-built, and very dependable), and their subs are surprisingly good. The components are the weak point, though the older Aria point source drivers were breathtakingly good. I wish they still made them :(
 






Get a 200ish dollar headunit, something name brand, NOT jensen or cheapies like that, most sonys are compatable with the steering wheel controls, you just gotta buy a plug for them, buy your stuff off of Crutchfield.com, theyll send you what you need + more.

As for speakers, upgrade to a 3 way, at least 100 watts a piece, and a sub, you would love the powered enclosures, small, built in amp, and they really kick

There is no need for a REAL three way system unless you plan on spending a lot of time tuning.

Pretty much all "3 way" speakers are two ways with an extra fake tweeter or "super tweeter". So don't buy into those three way speakers. Don't buy into that marketing crap.

No need for 100 watts a speaker.

30-40 watts is plenty. What is more important is the sound treatment to the speaker mounting location.

Doesn't matter if the speakers 500 dollars...they won't sound like it if nothing is done to improve the sound.

My 50 dollar a pair of Kenwood two ways from Best Buy sounded better than my friends 300 dollar pair of JL audio components. Why?? Because I did some heavy sound treatment..that cost me 20 dollars.

Its not about the equipment its about the install.
 






My 50 dollar a pair of Kenwood two ways from Best Buy sounded better than my friends 300 dollar pair of JL audio components. Why?? Because I did some heavy sound treatment..that cost me 20 dollars.

Its not about the equipment its about the install.

Could you ellaborate on "sound treatment" not really familiar with the jargon.

Thanks for the info....I was considering 3 way speakers...but I see your point...no need for 2 tweeters per speaker
 






I am talking about reinforcing the speaker baffles...which are essentially the door frame.

Here is my front right door almost done...one layer on the outer skin and three layers on the inner skin.

100_5715.jpg
 






Gotcha thanks for taking the time.
 






Its the same principles as building any speaker enclosure.

In a car audio environment the front speakers are usually in the front doors...which are made from flimsy thin sheet metal. The metal is light and flexes a lot.

Would you build a subwoofer enclosure out of 1/4" plywood?? Not really. What you want is a non resonant damped enclosure. You want the baffle that the speaker mounts on to be stiff and non resonant. Any flexing or vibrating is lost energy.

After completing my front doors the speakers sounded orgasmic. No joke. Before I thought the speakers were crap and bass was weak. Hell they had strong audible bass down to 40-50 Hz.
 






cool....I may end up doing the same. Will most likely reinforce the factory sub enclosure as well....I'm sure it's made completely of plastic. I would imagine it flexes alot.
 






The factory sub IS plastic, but it is pretty well reinforced. You could possibly brace it, though, with some threaded rod or dowels and not lose any appreciable volume.
 






I was thinking about coating it with fiberglass resin.....or do you think that would be a big nono?
 






laying fiberglass resin over plastic will do nothing. Besides crack off.

Test the factory enclosure by playing the stereo at a high volume and put your hand on the plastic enclosure...it should not vibrate or flex.
 






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