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Sport97's sport

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My name is Vince, I live south of Pittsburgh, Pa. I bought my explorer after i graduated high school(july 08) with 50k for 3500

The Ex:
97 explorer sport, SOHC/auto, leather, moon roof, + mods...


The x: It had 50k miles on it when i got it, and had only minimal rust. Since then the rust has been fixed, and I'm over 100k. Maintenance has been typical with plugs/wires, fuel filter, all 4 ball joints and a thermostat. Running Mobil 1 syn has seemed to quiet the timing chain rattle. Its totally quiet in the summer, and slightly louder in the cold weather.

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CURRENT STATE: 12/2011 @101k

-front skid plate
-removed front valance
-relocated front fog lights
-clear corners
-safari bar/lights (victim of rust and off roading)
-bed liner on a few things
-8" sub w/ amp
-4 pioneer speakers
-air box mod
-new rockers w/o rust:)
-cobra CB w/ 2 3ft wilson whips on the back
-Firestone At's , 265/75/16
-TT
-4 door leaf pack/aal/shackles

Near future:

-f150 tow hooks

Future: 3" body lift, 285/75 M/Ts
 



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Sounds like you have a spark plug wire arcing. You can check by spraying really any liquid onto the wires when the truck is running.
 



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Pounds like you have a spark plug wire arcing. You can check by spraying really any liquid onto the wires when the truck is running.

I'll try, but they are new wires and I did experience this with the old wires. Itll happen a few days in a row, then not for a while. Its weird.

My drivers window was a causality of 4 wheeling. All the rattling around broke the window track. I opened the panel to find part of the track broken off, a snapped connector and 2 broken wires (the broken track snagged them)... I fixed the track with some jb weld, and said screw it to the wires. The wires were for the door ajar. Now my lights don't come on with my driver's door, no biggie. In a way I like it because I can turn back the key, turn on the radio and open my door without the buzzer dinging.
 






My lower ball joint did not fair well off roading. The grease fitting snapped off and now I have an opening I cannot get a new fitting into. I put some gasket maker over it but it probably wont last long because there probably is no grease and its probably full of dirt and stuff too.

Replaced the drivers side hub with a MOOG. The first one I got was wrong (right number on the box, wrong part inside). Exchanged that and it went smoothly. The hub was definitely trashed but I still have a lot of noise up in the drivers front wheel. Could just be the tire but its only the drivers side...
 






Check the CV axle, noise might be from there.
 






Check the CV axle, noise might be from there.

Visual on it seemed fine, not really any slop in it and no tears either. Chalk it up to a worn tire on the drivers side for now...until something breaks. I'm just glad I didn't pull out a hub that was good, it was pretty well shot.
 












You've had quite the ride so far with this thing. Keep it up.

Thanks. She has been good to me, and i've had good times with her.

Just did a 400ish mile road trip this weekend.... not a comfy road trip car though...

4 people in a sport, with camping gear for 4. I was loaded to the absolute maximum. I have that road noise issue, combined with a loud exhaust around 3k rpms (which it saw alot of due to the hill climbs) caused for a noisy ride. Not to mention my a/c doesn't work so windows had to be open to get fresh air.

Even this loaded down and heavy foot driving in the mountains of west virginia i pulled 18.4 and 17.3mpg out of my 2 fill ups.
 






I located the spot of my gas leak. Filler neck. It seems as if its leaking where the metal meets the rubber. I assume that is a rubber hose must be split or rotted.
 






That would be my guess as well. I believe JoeDirt wrote a write up on replacing it.
 






I still have that gas filler issue (only leaks when topping off tank...) but i did figure out the noise!

Passenger wheel hub/bearing... I replaced it 1 1/2 yrs ago.... Autozone s**t. This part was replaced just prior to my boycott of autozone. Also need a new battery, it dies after 45 mins of radio play (crappy 3 year old diehard). Even with my **** car of the paint (wax it quite often, along with claybar etc..) I still have spider cracks and clearcoat fading starting on the hood/ fender edges :(

So here is what I need to replace on the explorer:

Windshield (has big crack) : $200
Wheel hub: $120
Tranny dipstick tube (mine is rusted): $25
New tires: $600
Filler neck (if not repairable as is) :$100
Battery (if they wont prorate my warranty) $110

Option stuff: New rear bumper(old one is rusted through with holes) $150
Fix rust/repaint rear quarter: $600
 






New Moog bearing installed. That thing was shaking so bad it actually loosened the lug nuts! Nice and quiet now.
 






Glad to hear, just in time before the weather changes for the worse. gonna try and get the front bumper done tomorrow and install the new winch.
 






That will be nice to finally get that on.

Im looking at new rear bumpers. Don't have fund for a custom one so I may look at 97 mounty bumper with the reflectors. Any idea where to find one?
 






Good plans and good to hear you fixed the bearing in time. Only places I could tell ya to try is craigslist, junkyards, ebay wanted ad and maybe ford direct parts.
 






So here is what I need to replace on the explorer:

Windshield (has big crack) : $200
Wheel hub: $120
Tranny dipstick tube (mine is rusted): $25
New tires: $600
Filler neck (if not repairable as is) :$100
Battery (if they wont prorate my warranty) $110

Option stuff: New rear bumper(old one is rusted through with holes) $150
Fix rust/repaint rear quarter: $600

Always something isn't it?
 






LOL, I don't think Carol would be too happy if her back bumper went missing. We're actually planning on putting her Mountaineer up for sale soon to get a newer truck or suv for her. I'm looking for another Sport Trac for her.
 












I did get the cooper ATPs put on. So far so good. Good looking tread, but the sidewall is not aggressive looking.

The girlfriend is buying me a new windshield for christmas/birthday and Im going this weekend to pick up a cleaner rear bumper and a scratch free rear fender flare for 30 bucks too.
 






Scratch free flare, why? Just rhino line the flares and not worry about scratching your new one. The new tires look like their pretty good for all types of weather, I see their siped for ice which will help since you live in the ice valley 70 corridor. Lol.
 



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Because I like to pretend I won't cause anymore body damage and I'm **** lol. Ive thought about rhino lining all the plastic but I haven't committed to that yet.... the key word is yet. The new(to me) bumper is getting bedliner prior to install. At least that one wont have rust sores and holes in it. Its paper thin.

I expect these tires to be better in the mud than my firestone ATs, and I never got stuck in those.
 






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