start with gas on the floor | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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start with gas on the floor

pol-explor

Member
Joined
October 28, 2019
Messages
21
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0
Location
St-aimé des lacs
City, State
Québec Canada
Year, Model & Trim Level
exploreur sport 2002.5 2
Hoping my English not so bad.
Hello everyone, Explorer Sport 2002 has 160km currently. For ten years it rolls about 1 month in winters and one month in summer.
He drove well for the first 1000 km and died on the road.
Low light level gasoline not lit. Take 10 liters and restart it.

Some day later not start! Three four hammer blow on the tank and restarted. So a new fuel pump completes.

Question - 1. What is the small module that is plugged into the yellow wire of the gasoline level and white and goes through the module to get out three-wire? It's three wire + red and black ends at the 5-pin connector of the car.

After starting the vehicle runs well for a few days.
Here I have to put the pedal on the floor to start.

I change candle: new to .054 old to .074
Change candle wire.
Changes the Regulating Air Solenoid Valve (RAR)

I start and always the same ..... Note ...

Since I changed the three elements mentioned above the engine runs extraordinarily well and she took over HP.

Here it is about 10 celcius to 3 celcius. But it is two last day in the morning it is -7 celcius ,,,, The car starts at
1 \ 4 turn. When the car has taken its normal temperature I have to put the pedal back to the floor to start.

Question - 2 Do you have any possible solutions?

Thanks in advance.
 



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Good morning all.
I exposed my problem to the forum explorer 2002 \ 2005 no answer in three days ......
I ask if I was in the right place and I was suggested to go 1995/2001 still there no réponce .....
So why?
Thank you

In the meantime, I cleaned the rectanqulaire plug, which was on the top of the engine on the left side.
Clean the black square plug on the right side of the motor.
Clean all fuses in the right driver's door compartment.
Clean relay and fuse in compartment of the right engine side.
Clean relay left side engine towards the radiator.
All this has changed nothing.
thank you for reading me.
 






If I understand what you are writing, when it is very cold out it starts fine, until the engine warms up, then it will not start unless your gas pedal is floored?

Flooring the gas pedal shuts off fuel delivery to the cylinders so I suspect it is flooding the engine, either due to partially clogged injectors that are not making a good spray, or possibly your coolant temperature sensor has a bad reading and it's choking it too rich.

You might hook up an OBD2 scan tool to see if any trouble codes are set and what the reported temperature is.
 






Bonjour JC,
Je tiens à vous remercier pour votre intérêt.
Oui, vous comprenez, demain matin à -10 ° C, cela démarrera, après que la chaleur du moteur aura démarré avec accélérateur.

Si la température extérieure est de 5 Celsius, commence par l'accélérateur.

J'avais déjà fait le test obd II il y a un mois, même si le moteur de vérification de la lumière ne s'allumait pas. Pas de code.

Mercredi, je vais le refaire et voir si obd II me donne le code et une lecture de la température.

Je vous donne encore des nouvelles ..

Merci
 






Excuse me.

Hello J-C,
I want to thank you for your interest.
Yes, you understand, tomorrow morning at -10 celcius it will start, after the engine heat ok start with accelerator.

If the outside temperature is 5 celcius starts with accelerator.

I had already done the test obd II a month ago even if the light check engine did not light. No code.

By Wednesday I will redo it and see if obd II gives me code and a temperature reading.

I give you news again ..

Thank you
 






Did you replace the fuel pump and filter ?
 






Thank you for your interest.

Here is what has been done or replaced:
- gas pump.
- Fuel Filter
- wire of candle.
- Candles
- Idle Air Control Valves
- Clean and check all fuses and relays. car interior and
engine compartment.
- Clean the right and left multipoint connectors
engine compartment.

On the cable of the old fuel pump, I had a small module whose yellow wire was almost cut, just at the entrance of the module. So I welded and reinstalled the cable of the new fuel pump firmly to get my pine connection.

Question -. What is the small module? Which is plugged into the yellow and white wire of the gasoline level, passes through the module to get out at three wires. There are three red and black wires ends at the 5-pin connector of the car. Maybe this module is causing my problem ,,,,,?

Once again, thank you for your ideas.

Here is the small module in question on the photos.
[ATTACH = full] 175837 [/ ATTACH] [ATTACH = full] 175838 [/ ATTACH]

upload_2019-11-17_12-17-17.png


upload_2019-11-17_12-18-44.png
 






I am having trouble understanding exactly what you mean, but I vaguely recall that some non-US vehicles had a fuel pump interrupt box at the tank as part of the anti-theft circuit and I wonder if that is what you are seeing. If that is the case, the 12V to power the pump goes through it and if you needed to, due to that module failing, you could just wire the 12V input to the 12V output to the pump to effectively take it out of the circuit.

You mentioned multiple things related to spark, but you can just pull the wire and plug and see if it is making spark, or use an OBD2 code scanner to look for misfire codes.

I still suspect it is either the fuel injectors (or fuel pressure which you can check) not spraying a good mist, or bad temperature sensor feedback.

If the wire in question was the power feed to the pump and being "almost cut" it was a resistance to the pump power, that could result in a lower pump speed and low pressure, but again you can measure fuel pressure and once that wire is repaired it should work normally again.
 






Thank you J-C,
The Idle Air Control Valves has been changed too. I added it to the text above.

The yellow cable was connected to the fuel level cable. The other was the neutral white from the bottom of the fuel pump. Enter the module and turns into three cables + 12v red wires and black = 5 pin connectors.

Tomorrow I check if there are codes and temperature recorded.

Thank you J-C

Here in Quebec it is - 12 celcius Hi Hi.
 






Hello to you,

The car never had a light check engine, today check if code on obdII, no code.

Also check the fuel pressure, ok pressure 64pci.

Note:

After starting with the accelerator, the car runs well at highdel, on the road too, but does 11.76 mpg ..

I think my problem is the temperature sensor, which always indicates a cold temperature all the time.

I wanted to check the temperature sensor but it is in a very difficult place. So I decided to change it for a new one and change the termostat too.

ll do it in the morning.

I do not know what is the module connected to the two wires of the gasoline level? See photo above.

Thank you for your tracks

I give you news ...
 






Thanks to J-C,
he found the problem. Coolant temperature sensor.

Not easy to change (5 HRS without anything broken, all the bolts were blocked ,,,,,,,,,)

Change also the other sensor and termostat in same time.

It remains for me to do a gasoline test, it was before repairs 11.76 MPG.

Thank you again

I give you news of the MPG test.
 






You will get better gas mileage
 






Here is the new test fuel:
Before repair: 20 L / 100
11.76 MPG - US OR 14.12 MPG - Imperial Gallon.
Which one do you use?

Road Condition:
Temperature: - 7 Celcius
Winter tire with nails.
8 stops in total.
Average of 95 KM / Hrs over 85% and 55 KM / HRS the rest
On 154 km with 1000 pound. Car part "Disc, pad and brake caliper
Mountainous route of 308 km with return.

See the table altitude in feet ...PDF

TWO TIMES from 0 to 2350 feet over 50 km.
TWO TIMES from 0 to 1500 feet altitude over 50 km too.


RESULT OF 14 L / 100 OR 16.8MPG - US // 20.18MPG - Imperial
Used you the US or Imperial Gallon?
Thank you
 

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