starter engages for a second and quits.

[mistert2]

I have a 2000 explorer 4.0 sohc 4x4 that will not start.

I have charged my battery (1 yr old) and tried but still will not start. It turns over very briefly and nothing. I have taken out starter and taken to Autozone and had bench tested and says ok.

Wiring looks ok and tightened all connections on battery but still nothing.
Is there another switch that may be bad?

I have an analog tester but kind of lacking experience in using.

What can I check next PLEASE HELP!

 

[mistert2]

OK going out in the cold to reinstall starter. I'm going to recheck wiring and hope maybe by taking out and reinstalling I may get a good connection and will work.

I know wishful thinking but what else can I do?

 

[koda2000]

check the owner's manual for relays. there might me a starter relay in the power distribution box under the hood. if so, swap it with another similar relay and see if that makes a difference.

you say the starter works for a second and then nothing... if you're not at least getting a click from the starter solenoid, then either power isn't getting to the solenoid or the solenoid is no good. if swapping the relay doesn't help, check your positive battery (and negative) cables, battery clamps and starter connection to make sure they're clean and tight.

you can also try turning the engine by hand with a socket on the crankshaft bolt to make sure it's capable of turning over (not hydro-locked). i've even seen things like a seized power steering pump shaft bearing stop a starter from spinning an engine.

 

[mistert2]

I have the starter back in and all hooked back up. All connections are tight. Battery charged. Checked all fuses and swapped similar relays that may pertain.

Same ole thing. Starter cranks over couple of times and then whines. I cannot get it to keep on cranking over. I keep doing over and over till kills battery. I have it on speed charge now and I don't what else to try.

 

[mistert2]

This is what I have noticed.

Charged battery. Turn on ignition... starter cranks a couple grunts and then whines.
As battery is drained grunts less hard and clicks.

What is difference?

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Try a jump start or swap a battery from a car that does start to see if you aren't getting enough amps. Battery may take a charge and show voltage but actually be too weak to start.

 

[SoNic67]

Did you replace/check the starter RELAY?

 

[mistert2]

Where would the starter relay be? Are they the little black boxes in the power distribution box next to firewall?

 

[koda2000]

if i'm understanding you correctly, the starter drive gear is not staying engaged with the flywheel gear. when it comes loose it's just spinning, hence the whine you hear. is this what's happening? if so the problem is that bendix spring (or whatever you want to call it) is not working properly. the starter testing GOOD at the auto parts store just checks the solenoid and electric motor, not the bendix. on older GM starters you can replace the the bendix and gear, not sure on Fords. you may need to just replace the whole starter motor.

 

[mistert2]

koda2000
That is a good observation. It is engaging but it sounds like it slips out and won't keep on turning to start.
I noticed as the battery gets weaker it tries to grab a little better... huh?

This problem has me scratching my head

 

[mistert2]

I wish I could get the starter checked under a load. You know?

 

[koda2000]

koda2000
That is a good observation. It is engaging but it sounds like it slips out and won't keep on turning to start.
I noticed as the battery gets weaker it tries to grab a little better... huh?

This problem has me scratching my head

yeah, that sounds like the starter drive is not staying engaged. easiest fix is to just replace the whole starter. i'd go with a reman with a lifetime warranty. the bearing, bushings and brushes in your old starter probably have a lot of miles on them anyway.

 

[koda2000]

BTW, the next time you pull the starter out, inspect the ring gear teeth and make sure your flywheel/flexplate isn't damaged or loose.

 

[mistert2]

I checked that the first time and all looked good
Thanks for asking

 

[mistert2]

Thanks for help guys

Turned out to be starter. Changed and is starting

HOWEVER... now my battery idiot light is on and wont go out. I figured is alternator so I took to the "zone" and had it checked and it failed. So I bought another. Installed and still same... light is on. So I get another replacement and put it in thinking the other was bad. SAME OLE THING... huh? I have checked all my connections and all is tight.
My voltage from alt to battery is less than 12v, battery is 12.7+-v.

I obviously have a short somewhere but cannot pinpoint.

ANY place to check not so obvious? What am I overlooking?

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Probably not a short. It looks like the alt isn't getting +12v to the B+ terminal. That is the larger wire that attaches to the alt on the stud with the nut. Check that, if no volts than check the 175 amp fuse next to the distribution box behind the ABS module. All that playing around may have blown that fuse. If you have 12v then make sure the little grey plug is fully seated. Let us know how that goes.



EDIT: Sorry just noticed this. Are you saying that the voltage on the B+ terminal is there and less than 12v?

 

[mistert2]

Do I connect the positive to the B+ and then to ground to test?

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Yes. Negative to battery neg post and positive to the alt B+.

 

[mistert2]

OK connected negative to battery negative and positive to alt B+ and get nothing.

But if I connect positve to positive battery post and negative to alt B+ post I get a reading less than 10

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Look at the dist box. Attached to the side is a small plastic cover. If you squeeze the tabs together it will swing open. Under that cover is a 175 amp fuse. One side of that fuse goes to the battery + post and the other side goes to the alt. Hook your neg test lead to the neg battery post and check with the positive lead for +12v on both sides of that fuse.