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Starter Gear Not Retracting Back after Starting Engine (2nd Time)




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The block plate
I thought you needed the thickness
Do you happen to know the Width of the Spacer to make sure it is the correct one
 






The block plate
I thought you needed the thickness
@donalds

To Clear Things up on Terminology.. I do have the Bushing / Spacer behind Flex Plate
(This is What Ford Dealership has it listed as) (See Pics)

That's what I was referring to and You were Correct not the "Width" but the Thickness is what I meant.

What You are Referring to is the Engine Block "Cover" is what the Ford Dealership Called it.
so the "Engine Block Cover" is 1.76mm "Thick"

Regardless... I believe the Answer to Solve the issue is to "Add Shims" to the Starter Where it Mounts from the Engine Block Side.

and from my Calculation... Add Shims that are a little over 1/2 inch..... 1/2 inch is roughly the thickness of Starter Teeth on Flexplate.

Also added Pic of New Starter... and it is Retracted all the way from what I can tell.

Bushing_Spacer_For_Flexplate_1.jpg


Bushing_Spacer_For_Flexplate_2.jpg


New_Starter.jpg
 






The starter should work with or without that spacer because I forgot to put it on once
I just thought that measurement is what you asked for
 






I THINK he's asking about the round spacer that the bolts actually go through.......


In your pictures everything looks to be installed correctly
If you had a loose nut in the converter area then I bet that was your noise
The front of the converter has much paint rubbed off, there is not much room in there
 






I agree
 






I have never ever ever shimmed one of these starters.... I do not believe you should need it
You have the "scatter shield" in place and the flexplate spacer, the flexplate is mounted properly...... I think your noise was that 5th nut
Does the nut itself show signs of damage from being tossed around in there?

The only other issue would be the front pump of the transmission, if the converter was jammed up in there it will push the hub too deep into the front pump and cause some serious issues...........I would inspect the front of the trans as much as possible, make sure the converter still fully stabs and everything lines up as it should while things are out
 






I THINK he's asking about the round spacer that the bolts actually go through.......


In your pictures everything looks to be installed correctly
If you had a loose nut in the converter area then I bet that was your noise
The front of the converter has much paint rubbed off, there is not much room in there
@410Fortune @donalds

Yes exactly... I was referring to the Bushing Spacer... Initially we thought it was missing until unbolting the Flexplate
(It's pictured above)

so this is what we did.... Before Removing the Flexplate and Bushing Spacer behind it.... We put the Starter into the Starter Hole on the Engine Cover and that's when I'm saying it still makes contact with Flexplate.

Keep in mind this was done by hand just holding the starter in place to see if the Starter Gear made contact with Flexplate and it did.
but without Bolting up Bell Housing I Can't know for sure ... but also there's no way to see where the starter gear is at when its all buttoned up
or am I missing something.

Again... Shims sounded like a Good idea ... but would that not leave Space between Starter Hole and Bell Housing ?
and if so the Bell Housing could get Debree in it.
 






compare new flexplate to old, see if any differences, was the old flexplate bent? (that is the question)
 






I have never ever ever shimmed one of these starters.... I do not believe you should need it
You have the "scatter shield" in place and the flexplate spacer, the flexplate is mounted properly...... I think your noise was that 5th nut
Does the nut itself show signs of damage from being tossed around in there?

The only other issue would be the front pump of the transmission, if the converter was jammed up in there it will push the hub too deep into the front pump and cause some serious issues...........I would inspect the front of the trans as much as possible, make sure the converter still fully stabs and everything lines up as it should while things are out
@410Fortune
I agree on 5th nut being in there.. here are some pics of the 1 I Believe was the "5th" I through it in a bag with the Rest so to be 100% honest I'm not sure which 1 was in the Bell Housing but this 1 had the most Scuff marks.

5th_nut_1.jpg


5th_nut_2.jpg


5th_nut_3.jpg


5th_nut_4.jpg


5th_nut_5.jpg
 






I have my original flex plate if you need any measurements or pictures to compare with
 






compare new flexplate to old, see if any differences, was the old flexplate bent? (that is the question)
By my Buddies account the Flex plate had a little play in it.

let me see if I can get a video of it on a flat surface.
 


















It may have been bent when you guys smashed the trans down the first time w/o the converter bolts lined up
Has the new flexplate come yet or are you waiting on parts like the rest of the world? USPS has gotten really slow in 2020
 






It may have been bent when you guys smashed the trans down the first time w/o the converter bolts lined up
Has the new flexplate come yet or are you waiting on parts like the rest of the world? USPS has gotten really slow in 2020
Copy that @410Fortune ... Yes Waiting on Flexplate and Starter Shims "Just in Case" I need them if not I'll return them.

and I do plan on getting TC Studs lined up and get the Nuts Started but not tightened down before fully tightening Bell Housing Bolts.


Where you able to see video? that Flexplate should have 0 Play when sitting on Flat Service ?

I know I've said this... But Thank You guys Gratefully.
 






pretty sure that sucker is bent, yes I saw the video
I do have flexplates here, but they are bolted to the back of engines so I did not unbolt one to try out your flat table test (yet)

Do not start the converter nuts.....nope
You do not put a nut on the threads at ALL until the trans is fully bolted up and flush to the engine
The converter studs will stick through the flexplate enough so you can start a nut, but you do not start the nut until after it is all bolted up
Then when you put the first nut on it will pull the converter forward 3/8"

Here I go over the very delicate process I use to install an auto trans to engine, this is for a v8, but it is basically exactly the same:
Starts on post #205
 






Just checked mine had no wobble on the bench
 






pretty sure that sucker is bent, yes I saw the video
I do have flexplates here, but they are bolted to the back of engines so I did not unbolt one to try out your flat table test (yet)

Do not start the converter nuts.....nope
You do not put a nut on the threads at ALL until the trans is fully bolted up and flush to the engine
The converter studs will stick through the flexplate enough so you can start a nut, but you do not start the nut until after it is all bolted up
Then when you put the first nut on it will pull the converter forward 3/8"

Here I go over the very delicate process I use to install an auto trans to engine, this is for a v8, but it is basically exactly the same:
Starts on post #205
Copy that ...Thanks for install lead ...got it ...dont start TC nuts until tranny fully bolted up
 



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