Starter is sticking

[shadowless127]

So Saturday after driving for most of the day, I go out after it was sitting for a few hours and go to start it and I get the single click that usually signifies a bad starter. So I crank it again immediately and it turns over and starts like nothing ever happened. No issues the rest of the day. Sat about 20hours go out and it starts fine all day Sunday. Starts fine all day yesterday. Go out this morning, get the click, go again still get the click. Tried about 4 times getting the single click all 4 times. The fifth time I hold it and after about 4 seconds the starter starts but I let the key go so the engine didn't turn over, turn the key again, boom, starts up just fine. Is the starter going or is there another issue? Starter was replaced March of last year.

 

[koda2000]

bad starter more than likely. check your battery cables to make sure they're clean and tight, but sounds like the starter is worn out.

 

[shadowless127]

bad starter more than likely. check your battery cables to make sure they're clean and tight, but sounds like the starter is worn out.

After only 15 months?!?!

 

[Tbars4]

..I second that it sounds like a starter going bad or bad cables.

..Did you buy the starter at Autozone?

..After the vehicle sits for a couple hours go out and take a voltage reading on your battery and then again in the morning, another voltage test before you try to start it..

..Then, with someone else trying to start the vehicle, see what your lowest voltage is during the cranking.

 

[shadowless127]

..I second that it sounds like a starter going bad or bad cables.

..Did you buy the starter at Autozone?

..After the vehicle sits for a couple hours go out and take a voltage reading on your battery and then again in the morning, another voltage test before you try to start it..

..Then, with someone else trying to start the vehicle, see what your lowest voltage is during the cranking.

The fact you knew I got the Starter at Autozone does not give me much hope...

Cables are in good shape, terminals were replaced a year and a half ago.

 

[Tbars4]

Yea..I would replace the cables rather than the ends as there will be corrosion inside the sheathing and I would get a warranty refund if possible, and get a starter with a LLW from someone else..

We hear about their parts going bad anytime from a week to under a year all the time..After changing the same item 2-3 times in the same year and being stranded, it kinda takes the shine off of saving a couple of bucks..

 

[shadowless127]

Yea..I would replace the cables rather than the ends as there will be corrosion inside the sheathing and I would get a warranty refund if possible, and get a starter with a LLW from someone else..

We hear about their parts going bad anytime from a week to under a year all the time..After changing the same item 2-3 times in the same year and being stranded, it kinda takes the shine off of saving a couple of bucks..

That's terrible. Wish I would have known this last year, I would've gotten from someone else.

So I just called them and they will only do a warranty swap, and they said they'd have to test it first. The thing I'm concerned about, is that it's an intermittent issue, so I'm worried that their testing won't show anything. That and the fact that if I can't take the starter out and bring it to them to test without having another starter in my car. So I'm wondering if I go down there if I can just pay full price for the same one I have, and then have them just refund me the entire amount when I bring the old one back. Guess I should email my mechanic and schedule a time to have him come swap the starter for me, again

 

[mashcraft1969]

It could also be the starter relay under the hood. I have an AutoZone starter on mine and have had it for years with no issues. Good luck.

 

[shadowless127]

It could also be the starter relay under the hood. I have an AutoZone starter on mine and have had it for years with no issues. Good luck.

Even if I get the single click?

 

[mashcraft1969]

I'm not a mechanic, but I always change the parts from the cheapest to most expensive. I have had several relays go bad int the total of 3 Explorers that I have owned, but have only ever replaced 2 started in mine over the past 14 years. Meybe I have just been lucky, but luck has never been my strong suite.

 

[mashcraft1969]

Sorry for the typos.

 

[shadowless127]

I'm not a mechanic, but I always change the parts from the cheapest to most expensive. I have had several relays go bad int the total of 3 Explorers that I have owned, but have only ever replaced 2 started in mine over the past 14 years. Meybe I have just been lucky, but luck has never been my strong suite.

From my understanding the fact I get the single click means that the solenoid/relay is operating correctly and closing the circuit and sending power to the starter. If there are multiple clicks (like a dead battery) or no clicks that means the solenoid is either opening and closing quickly or there is no power to the solenoid.

 

[koda2000]

"From my understanding the fact I get the single click means that the solenoid/relay is operating correctly and closing the circuit and sending power to the starter. If there are multiple clicks (like a dead battery) or no clicks that means the solenoid is either opening and closing quickly or there is no power to the solenoid."

that is what i'm thinking. from what you've said your battery isn't the issue, your starter switch isn't the problem and your solenoid isn't the problem. sometimes the wire from the solenoid to the starter motor body corrodes away, but your starter isn't old enough for that to have happened. if your battery cables are clean and tight (on both ends) that pretty much leaves the starter. as far as changing the least expensive parts first... how about you change the part that is causing the issue. the AZ starter should be lifetime warranty (or if you bought their Valuecrap brand, 12 mths). if you bought the Valuecrap brand starter 15 mths ago, i guess it outlived the warranty.

 

[shadowless127]

"From my understanding the fact I get the single click means that the solenoid/relay is operating correctly and closing the circuit and sending power to the starter. If there are multiple clicks (like a dead battery) or no clicks that means the solenoid is either opening and closing quickly or there is no power to the solenoid."

that is what i'm thinking. from what you've said your battery isn't the issue, your starter switch isn't the problem and your solenoid isn't the problem. sometimes the wire from the solenoid to the starter motor body corrodes away, but your starter isn't old enough for that to have happened. if your battery cables are clean and tight (on both ends) that pretty much leaves the starter. as far as changing the least expensive parts first... how about you change the part that is causing the issue. the AZ starter should be lifetime warranty (or if you bought their Valuecrap brand, 12 mths). if you bought the Valuecrap brand starter 15 mths ago, i guess it outlived the warranty.

I didn't get the ValueCrap, I got the DuraDoesntLast with the LLW. I was cheap, but not that cheap lol

 

[Varsity]

I didn't get the ValueCrap, I got the DuraDoesntLast

LOL!


Unfortunately I was in the same position as you. Different vehicle but an alternator. I knew it was bad and needed to be changed but it was only an intermittent problem and of course they had to test it first. Sure enough it tested fine on their tester but sucked when I put it back in. If memory serves me right, I just cut my losses and got a different alternator from another parts store. Wasn't even close to being worth the hassle and arguing.

For what its worth, it was a ProStart alternator from Pepboys. ProStart is Pepboys' version of Duralast; one step above Valuecraft but not by much...

 

[shadowless127]

LOL!


Unfortunately I was in the same position as you. Different vehicle but an alternator. I knew it was bad and needed to be changed but it was only an intermittent problem and of course they had to test it first. Sure enough it tested fine on their tester but sucked when I put it back in. If memory serves me right, I just cut my losses and got a different alternator from another parts store. Wasn't even close to being worth the hassle and arguing.

For what its worth, it was a ProStart alternator from Pepboys. ProStart is Pepboys' version of Duralast; one step above Valuecraft but not by much...

I had a good experience with a Pepboys front hub assembly, but their front rotors I have on now might be warped after <20K miles of use and no grinding. Will find out Thursday after I get my tires balanced.

 

[Flash]

A lifetime warranty isn't much use if the part's lifetime is 3 months.

Usually that clicking means the contacts on the solenoid are corroded.
The next thing that happens is the contacts weld together and the starter stays on.

 

[shadowless127]

I'm pretty sure it's the starter. Worked fine for the rest of the day. Made 2 pit stops before I went home and it started fine. Went out later in the night to gas up and run to 7-11 and it acted up again at the Gas Station. I did the same thing as before, hold the key in the start position for a few seconds a couple times and it turned over. Worked fine this morning, but it doesn't sound like the starter is spinning as quick as it did even a couple months ago. You can like hear the slowness of it.

Usually that clicking means the contacts on the solenoid are corroded.
The next thing that happens is the contacts weld together and the starter stays on.

Huh? It clicks once, which it's supposed to do.

 

[shadowless127]

It was the starter. Had my guy swap it out, took the other one back, they threw it on the tester and the results weren't good. So I paid my mechanic $75 and now I don't have to worry about it.