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How to: Starting my 00M12 Installation

rp23g7

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washington
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99 ford explorer
Great thread, i am just about to start my repair too
 


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2000StreetRod

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Greenville, SC
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00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
Don't remove sensors if avoidable

Some members have had problems when removing the temperature sensors from the plastic thermostat housing. Sometimes they will spin and then leak and the housing has to be replaced. Don't remove the sensors to replace the tensioner unless you have to.
 




cjmedina

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3 Explorers 01,99,99
Yep.....Like me

The screw in type housing will not take the stress of removing and then reinstalling the left sensor. I forget whether its the sender or switch but it's the one on the left.

If you can remove the tensioner without removing it then fine. But if you loosen that left one your taking a chance!

The left sensor screws in to a brass fitting that is in cased in plastic that brakes, VERY EASY! I wasn't even able to tighten the sensor....... It just spun!

The Stealership wanted $320 to replace.....YIKES!

I was able to upgrade with the clip type sensor mount in 2002 and up model housings including the sensors for less then $100 from RockAuto.com A class place to buy aftermarket parts.


Cliff
 




jay3253

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Ames, IA
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'00 XLT
I was able to upgrade with the clip type sensor mount in 2002 and up model housings including the sensors for less then $100 from RockAuto.com A class place to buy aftermarket parts.


Cliff

Cliff do you have a part number for that from them? I just did it not five minutes ago and am just kicking myself!!!!!

Also, anyone else have to vacuum out dead mice from the valley between the cylinder banks? MINE WAS FULL!!!
 




cjmedina

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3 Explorers 01,99,99
MOTORCRAFT Part # RH144 More Info {#2L5Z8592BB}
Sport; Lower
SOHC; Housing Only; From 7/24/00
 




Flick75

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November 24, 2008
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City, State
Honolulu
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Sport SOHC 2WD
MOTORCRAFT Part # RH144 More Info {#2L5Z8592BB}
Sport; Lower
SOHC; Housing Only; From 7/24/00

If you wouldn't mind,what are the part numbers for the sensors and sender and/or clips or whatever else is associated with this?

Thanks in advance.
 




95ExpLim

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Fort Collins, Co
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95 Limited
The process I used was slow and not very effective. I purchased a package of three small wire brushes in the paint department of Wal-Mart. I had a can of aerosol throttle body cleaner that I used as a solvent. The brushes were not stiff enough and the throttle body cleaner was not strong enough to rapidly separate the carbon buildup from the plastic surfaces of the manifolds so at times I used a small flat screwdriver with worn edges so it wouldn't gouge the plastic. There must be a better method.

Just a suggestion for anyone following this thread and wanting to clean the upper/lower intake.

Try spray on oven cleaner, let it soak a bit, rinse off. Has worked well for me with baked on oil/grease and such. Keep it off of electrical contacts/plugs etc.
 




Rudy602

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Central NH
Year, Model & Trim Level
'95 OHV 4WD '97 SOHC a4WD
gas quality?

I just pulled the intake on my '97 and was surprised by how little build up there was. I just used a paper towel and wiped off some black residue. I wonder if it has anything to do with gas quality, I'm kind of fussy about gas since I got some bad gas once and never made it out of the station. I have used some of that lucas fuel injector cleaner lately, too. I bought a quart sized squeeze bottle and leave it in the back and give it a couple squirts every other time I fill up. I dont know if it has anything to do with it but I was glad there was no build up.
 




islandscott

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St. Croix, USVI
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99
Warning - Intake Manifold Torque

If you link to Mike's older post regarding the installation of the 00M12 kit on older Explorers DO NOT USE the 13ft/lb figure for the lower intake bolts. I failed to notice the correction posted in this thread which resulted in a broken bolt. 13 ft/lb equates to 156 in/lb - far more than the recommended 107-123 in/lb range (roughly 9 ft/lb).

Note: This is not a criticizm of Mike's excellent post, just a minor but critical warning.
 




sabasigh

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STL Metro East, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
'05 XLT 4x4
Part # verification

I ordered Ford part number YL-2Z-9E473-AA from Forddirectonline.com for $49.49 plus shipping (also available from FordPartsCenter.net and MidTennfordparts.com for about the same price).

I just ordered that part # from MidTennfordparts.com for about $54 minus shipping. That's still the most current kit?

My doggone Ex clicked off some Lean codes this AM and is doing the cold start sputter, high rev, sputter...

I have no idea if this kit was done before I took ownership 4 years ago.
 




red101

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atlanta ga
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1996 explorer
Need cylinder location and coil terminal id for plugs

Need cylinder location and coil terminal id for putting my wires on my spark plugs. I have the Haynes manuel but I think the ohv engine is different than the sohc

Thanks
 




drothgeb

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Blacksburg, VA
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97 XLT 4.0 SOHC 4x4
Was there any need to dump the coolant to access the lower intake? I told the mechanic I was visiting today about me possibly doing this project this weekend and he said I'd have to empty my coolant.

Thanks!
 








axman

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brandon, MS
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00 sport
checking my front hydraulic tensioner for a bad spring or wear, planning to remove valve cover next to check guides condition. I've followed the upper intake manifold removal step by step, removed the selonoid to give the tensioner enough clearance, on the thread I'm following a 27mm deep well was used for removal.......I used a 27 deep well and I couldn't get it to go all the way down to the hex fitting? I read that another member used a 1 1/16 in wrench for his. so I'm trying that of course it's too tight and began to turn the corner. soaked the tensioner down good with pb blaster and gonna let it penetrate over night until I can get back to it in the morning..............any tips on getting it out other than soaking and trying the 1 1/16th, or do I need a deeper 27mm??
 








axman

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brandon, MS
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00 sport
2000 explorer sport, guide check progress

thanks, I tried it again after soaking all night and used the back of an 1 1/16 in. wrench and it broke free, got it out and checked the spring action looks very clean and works really well, I don't think it was much my problem...I'm trying to get the valve cover off now. my fuel line comes up the side of the block and over the valve cover ( real tight) so I removes the 2 screws that hold the line into the injector rail on the left of motor, now I'm trying to get the last one out on the right hand side, the water line going down to the water pump is making it tough......I'm gonna get one of those small socket wrenches to use the 7mm socket that it takes. it I free that it will move up enough to free the valve cover for removal.......
 




axman

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Well, i got the small socket wrench for the 7mm fuel line and it worked, then I was able to unhook the wiring harness, and remove the coil pack to free up the valve cover, got the cover off and checked the guides, and chain and sprocket, with the tensioner removed already there was only a little play in the chain. everything looks fairly clean around the cassette, guides and chains, the only notable was the very first valve spring area had a more of a carbon build up around the bottom of the spring, the other ones were clean. I didn't see any shavings or pieces, both guides look pretty good, chain looks great. also the tensioner seemed to work pretty well spring has good tension, but I wonder if it just wasn't working properly with the hydraulic oil port?? I know my rattling prior to all this was from the left hand valve cover area, should I just replace the gaskets and the tensioner, and try it again, If it still rattling loudly, I'll just take to my friends used dealership and trade it in something.
 




2000StreetRod

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primary tensioner?

The primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) chain tensioner is the most likely to fail. It is very difficult to identify the source of an engine internal rattle. I was convinced my rattle was coming from the front and it turned out to be the rear. I used a section of rubber hose, a length of PVC tube and a mechanic's stethoscope and still didn't get it right.
 




Abraxsis

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2001 Explorer Sport
I just completed this yesterday. Took about 3 hours to finish with my cousin helping me. Just thought I would point out that depending on your engine's level of air leakage it may run HORRIBLE or be difficult to start at first. My truck wouldn't start the first round and we had to floor it to get it to run on the second try. After 2 minutes the computer had begun to relearn the new telemetry and the idle smoothed out. After 5 minutes of running we took it out on a 10 mile drive that included regular road driving and interstate travel. Now the truck runs GREAT and I barely have to touch the gas and itll fly. Thanks for the tutorial and just remember not to freak if the truck doesn't start on the 1st go.
 


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2000co

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'05 Mountaineer V6 AWD
I just ordered that part # from MidTennfordparts.com for about $54 minus shipping. That's still the most current kit?

My doggone Ex clicked off some Lean codes this AM and is doing the cold start sputter, high rev, sputter...

I have no idea if this kit was done before I took ownership 4 years ago.
I'm getting codes P0174 & P0171 so i'm due for inatke gakets. Will the kit works om my 2000 Explorer SOHC? I can't find the kit that cheap, the chepest i found is $70.
Do i need to buy the EGR gasket?
 




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