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How to: Starting my 00M12 Installation

2000StreetRod

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EGR tube O ring

I just checked the PN for the OOm12 kit at tousleyfordparts.com - $58.07 + shipping
I suggest that you obtain the O ring for the EGR tube because you might damage it when removing the intake manifold. There are two different types of O ring and right now I don't have the PN for the correct one.
 


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2000co

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Thank you for the find!
Will the kit fit my truck?
 




2000co

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I’m going to change the gaskest on my truck, i also got the green o-ring for the EGR. When I was shopping for the EGR on AutoZone website I notice they have gasket for the EGR, do I need to change it also?
Any other parts or gaskets you recommend to replace or check while I’m replacing the intake gaskets?
 




2000StreetRod

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Rear hydraulic tensioner

I suggest replacing the hydraulic tensioners every 75,000 miles or when rattle is detected. Since you will be replacing the front hydraulic tensioner with the 00m12 kit, you may want to also replace the rear tensioner: Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement . It's a good policy to replace the EGR tube gasket which is easily damaged when removing the upper intake manifold. Replacing the PCV valve is much easier when the upper manifold is off: SOHC PCV Valve Mod thru 2000 It's also a good time to replace the knock sensor if you have determined with a scanner that there is excessive knock sensor retard of the ignition timing. Check all of the vacuum hoses for potential leaks.
 




2000co

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I suggest replacing the hydraulic tensioners every 75,000 miles or when rattle is detected. Since you will be replacing the front hydraulic tensioner with the 00m12 kit, you may want to also replace the rear tensioner: Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement . It's a good policy to replace the EGR tube gasket which is easily damaged when removing the upper intake manifold. Replacing the PCV valve is much easier when the upper manifold is off: SOHC PCV Valve Mod thru 2000 It's also a good time to replace the knock sensor if you have determined with a scanner that there is excessive knock sensor retard of the ignition timing. Check all of the vacuum hoses for potential leaks.
I was planning to buy just the gaskets from AutoZone not the kit.

I don’t hear any rattling noise from the engine and when I called about the kit the guy at the parts department told me that if my tensioner is sticking out about inch it means that i have the new tensioner and I don’t need to replace mine. Since I trust you guys more then the parts guy do you think I need to change mine? I have 106k on the truck.

When you say EGR tube gasket are you referring to the green o-ring?

How I find if I need to replace the knock sensor? The only knocking noise I hear is after I change oil for couple hundred miles I hear knocking noises on idling. My mechanic told me I have a stuck lifter and when the oil gets dirty it becomes thicker and release the lifter. I’m using 5-30w Valvoline MaxLife full syntactic so you think the oil will “clean” the stuck lifter. What you think?
 




2000StreetRod

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knock sensor

The only 2nd generation Explorer engine with a knock sensor is the SOHC V6. That's because of its higher compression. If the knock sensor detects detonation the PCM retards the ignition timing in increments until it stops. I only mentioned it because mine is bad and occasionally retards the ignition at WOT when burning the highest octane fuel that is readily available. It is only detectable using a scanner that can record the parameter.

Yes, the EGR tube gasket is the large O ring.

My engine was not maintained properly by the previous owner and was filled with sludge when I removed the valve covers. I am changing my oil every 1,000 miles and use an engine flush before each oil change. Your selected oil should be fine.

As I previously stated, I suggest replacing the hydraulic tensioners every 75,000 miles unless the engine is equipped with an aftermarket pre-oiler that tensions the chains prior to engine start.
 








2000co

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The only 2nd generation Explorer engine with a knock sensor is the SOHC V6. That's because of its higher compression. If the knock sensor detects detonation the PCM retards the ignition timing in increments until it stops. I only mentioned it because mine is bad and occasionally retards the ignition at WOT when burning the highest octane fuel that is readily available. It is only detectable using a scanner that can record the parameter.

Yes, the EGR tube gasket is the large O ring.

My engine was not maintained properly by the previous owner and was filled with sludge when I removed the valve covers. I am changing my oil every 1,000 miles and use an engine flush before each oil change. Your selected oil should be fine.

As I previously stated, I suggest replacing the hydraulic tensioners every 75,000 miles unless the engine is equipped with an aftermarket pre-oiler that tensions the chains prior to engine start.
Did a lot of reading today, thank you and everyone else for great write-ups and advices:thumbsup:
I need to check my paperwork but if I’m not mistaken I had my truck service couple years ago for the rattling noise. The truck was under warranty at that time.

I’m going to order the kit, rear tensioner, PCV and EGR o-ring. If my truck was service for the rattling do I need to change “that plastic pencil thing” that comes with the kit?
 




2000StreetRod

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Restrictor/volume reducer

. . . I’m going to order the kit, rear tensioner, PCV and EGR o-ring. If my truck was serviced for the rattling do I need to change “that plastic pencil thing” that comes with the kit?

The only way to know for sure is to remove the plug and see if the new restrictor/volume reducer will go in. If there's already one in there the new one will not drop down. Be very careful when removing the plug. Clean the head before inserting the Torx bit. Make sure the Torx bit is fully seated in the plug head. I used an extension and tapped it with a hammer to make sure the bit was down. Press down hard when turning to prevent the bit from backing out or you may damage the head preventing removal of the plug.
 




Ricco4592

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I just wanted to thank Mikeh and 2000StreetRod for their awesome writeups. i was able to do this job in less than 3 hours because of all the information you both put in your thread. now my truck rattles no more haha. Thanks you very much
 




Rage1973

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Good thead, and it helped. I am not sure if this was done before on my exploder, but the little plastic pencil thing was already inside the oil galley. I ended up fishing the old one out and installed the new one.... AND.. the SOB still rattles.. So now after my deployement, I will be either replacing the timing chains, or just get rid of it..lol.. I have 6 months to think about it.

But thanks again for the write up.
 




ahazen

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Invaluable!

This thread and it's links were invaluable! I went online to figure out the solution to my explorer problem - Found this thread with some hesitation dove in. The long and short, is that my problem was fixed with much help from your posted diagnostic and instruction. The only hiccup I had was due to a faulty torque wrench which lead to the breaking of a manifold bolt. I got the bolt out, but discovered that Ford "discontinued" that item. Fortunately, I was able to find a replacement.

Thanks again!
 




ahazen

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Invaluable!
This thread and it's links were invaluable! I went online to figure out the solution to my explorer problem - Found this thread with some hesitation dove in. The long and short, is that my problem was fixed with much help from your posted diagnostic and instruction. The only hiccup I had was due to a faulty torque wrench which lead to the breaking of a manifold bolt. I got the bolt out, but discovered that Ford "discontinued" that item. Fortunately, I was able to find a replacement.

Thanks again!
 




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Great posts 2000StreetRod! Lots of pics and info, extremely helpful. I see you had many problems with the timing chain related parts, one question, what grade of oil are you using? Thanks!
 




2000StreetRod

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synthetic 5W30

Great posts 2000StreetRod! Lots of pics and info, extremely helpful. I see you had many problems with the timing chain related parts, one question, what grade of oil are you using? Thanks!

I'm currently using synthetic 5W30 but the previous owner didn't.
 




SCMark

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On a recommendation from a former Ford dealer tech I am replacing the hydraulic chain tensioners. The issue I have now that we are in to the job is how to remove the plug for the oil galley plug to replace the volume reduction plug. The instructions for the OOM12 kit say to use a Torx T-30 bit which doesn't fit well (seems small, and the T-40 is too large). What we have now is the plug is buggered, and will be a bear to get out. The question is: is the volume reduction plug in the kit a replacement, or a new item to add? If it is a replacement does it really need to be changed? If is new and needs to go in what is the best way to get the buggered oil galley plug out? The kit comes with a new plug so the destruction of the existing one is not a big deal, but I don't want to damage anything else if I can help it.
 




2000StreetRod

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no good advice

I cleaned the top of the plug and then tapped the Torx adapter with a hammer to make sure it was seated in the plug before attempting to loosen it. Other members have gouged out the plug head when attempting removal and not found and posted a good way to remove it after it was damaged. I don't have any good advice to offer for resolving your situation. I would be hesitant to drill the plug in fear of breaking thru and getting metal shavings into the galley.

I don't know what year Ford started installing the restrictor (possibly 2002)but it was not in my 2000. The restrictor should never "wear out" so there is no need to replace an existing one.
 




heddykevy

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Hey 2000StreetRod (or anyone who can help), I'm looking for the 00m12 kit, but I can't find it for less than $98. I've seen several others quoting prices anywhere between $45-60 bucks. Where can I find a 00m12 kit for this price?

Also, thanks 2000StreetRod for your posts; I'm going to try and tackle this job on my own. Wish me luck!
 




SCMark

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Hey 2000StreetRod (or anyone who can help), I'm looking for the 00m12 kit, but I can't find it for less than $98. I've seen several others quoting prices anywhere between $45-60 bucks. Where can I find a 00m12 kit for this price?

Also, thanks 2000StreetRod for your posts; I'm going to try and tackle this job on my own. Wish me luck!

I got my kit at Tasca Ford (http://www.tascaparts.com/). I don't remember the exact cost, but the oom12 kit and the rear tensioner was under $120 total inlcuding shipping.
 


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