steering rack or gear and pump replacement

[sunfish32]

I have a 1997 5.0l with 105k. it recently sat for about a month and upon starting it and trying to move it on a cold day i let it warm up 10 min and when i finally started to drive it immediately noticed the power steering was not working before the truck sat there were no leaks in the power steering but now it seemed to be leaking from the steering rack. the fluid resevoir was almost empty at this point. i put the truck on stands with the wheels off and found that the rack was suddenly leaking from both ends where the system had been functioning perfectly before the truck sat. in diagnosis i filled up with fluid and turned the wheel with the tires off and there was a bumpy feeling or roughness felt in the steering wheel. i have since ordered and began installing a new rack which is an involved project and new power steering pump. the best theory i can come up with is that for some reason some pressure regulator or check valve may have gotten stuck from the cold and as a result allowed the pressure to get to high and blow out the seals on the rack. but i am not satisfied with this has anyone else experienced anything like this?
thanks
mike

 

[Turdle]

Yes, I helped my buddy change his leaking 97 rack
the seals go bad
Remove the torsion bars and lower control arms and its out.

 

[Skibug]

I havn't had your specific problem, but I think my rack and pinion is also going out. I have no leaks yet, but I have a significant shudder when turning at low speeds and it also shudders pretty bad when I turn my wheels when sitting still. I noticed this after the front axle was submerged in water. Is there a way for water to get in the system and do damage if I don't have any leaks?

I have flushed the power steering system out with seafoam trans and power steering fluid with no improvement in the shudder that I experience. I also added some lucas power steering fix with no improvement also.

Did you notice a shudder at low speeds before you let your truck sit? Any one else have an opinion?

 

[Turdle]

I havn't had your specific problem, but I think my rack and pinion is also going out. I have no leaks yet, but I have a significant shudder when turning at low speeds and it also shudders pretty bad when I turn my wheels when sitting still.

I have flushed the power steering system out with no improvement in the shudder that I experience.

Did you notice a shudder at low speeds before you let your truck sit? Any one else have an opinion?

try a 10 dollar bottle of lucas power steering fix.

 

[Skibug]

try a 10 dollar bottle of lucas power steering fix.

I was in the middle of editing my post to say that I already have used both the lucas additive and seafoam trans and power steering flush with no results.

Is there a decent write up somewhere as to how to replace the rack. I may end up doing this in the near future.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

Here you go:

Special Service Tool Required:
Pitman Arm Puller


-Start engine.
-ROTATE steering wheel from lock-to-lock (entire gear travel). Record number of rotations.
-DIVIDE the number of rotations by two . This gives the required number of turns to place system in the on-center position. NOTE: Verify the front wheels and steering wheel are in the straight-ahead position.
-From the lock position, ROTATE steering wheel the number of turns determined in Step 3. This places the gear in the ON-CENTER position.

NOTE: DO NOT ROTATE steering column when the intermediate shaft is disconnected or DAMAGE TO CLOCKSPRING will result.


-Remove bolt retaining the lower steering column shaft to the steering gear input shaft.
-Disconnect the lower steering column shaft from the steering gear.
-Remove stabilizer bar attachment from frame for clearance to remove gear.

-Unscrew the quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose and power steering return hoses at the steering gear housing.
-Plug ends of fluid lines removed and ports in gear to prevent damage and entry of dirt.
-Remove two (2) nuts from the Power Steering cooler.
-Remove the Power Steering cooler from vehicle.
-Remove and discard the cotter pin retaining the nut to tie rod end and remove nut.

-Separate tie rod ends from front wheel spindle using Pitman Arm Puller.
-Remove the two nuts, bolts, and washer assemblies retaining steering gear to front crossmember.

-Remove steering gear from vehicle. If required, remove steering gear mounting bracket housing insulators and steering gear insulators from steering gear housing.


That should do it! Just reverse for installation!

-Drew

 

[ExplorerDMB]

For future reference you can find it here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1367478

-Drew

 

[sunfish32]

Thanks For everyone's help

i want to thank everyone for their help i had almost entirely completed the removal and install by the time i had posted that. It was relatively straight foward but time consuming. I also have the ford cd that is put out by ford and thoroughly and completely covers almost all vehicles from 92 foward or something like that. Final fill and bleeding procedure was very important to do directly according to the manual because i requires sucking out the air with a handheld vacuum pump again not difficult but necessary. and to the person who was wondering if i had problems steering before the truck sat---NOne what-so-ever. thanks again everyone.

 

[sunfish32]

make certain the rack is really the problem

I was in the middle of editing my post to say that I already have used both the lucas additive and seafoam trans and power steering flush with no results.

Is there a decent write up somewhere as to how to replace the rack. I may end up doing this in the near future.

my advice is to make certain that the rack is really the problem because this procedure was costly (nearly $600= rebuilt rack from ford + reman pump local auto parts, tie rod ends because you have them off + fluids (engine oil because you have to take the oil cooler and filter off and the lower radiator hose has to come off there so antifreeze + allignment) and time consuming and required having the space and tools which i was fortunate to have. I had the hoses replaced a few months ago when a small leak in the hoses developed.
Make sure that you have tires that are balanced, that you front end is aligned properly and that you check out the tie rod ends first otherwise you could throw out alot of money and time doing something that doesn't need to be done
mike

 

[Skibug]

my advice is to make certain that the rack is really the problem because this procedure was costly (nearly $600= rebuilt rack from ford + reman pump local auto parts, tie rod ends because you have them off + fluids (engine oil because you have to take the oil cooler and filter off and the lower radiator hose has to come off there so antifreeze + allignment) and time consuming and required having the space and tools which i was fortunate to have. I had the hoses replaced a few months ago when a small leak in the hoses developed.
Make sure that you have tires that are balanced, that you front end is aligned properly and that you check out the tie rod ends first otherwise you could throw out alot of money and time doing something that doesn't need to be done
mike

Thanks, The shudder has gotten better over time since I did a PS flush. Yet it still has not gone away. I think I will just deal with it until I notice a leak or my PS finally gives out. I have the space, time, and money, but don't want to just throw money at the explorer.