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stored 211 code, trouble starting and running

bustedknuckle

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I'm having a big problem with my 94 X sport. It does,nt like to start in the morning (5:30 am) I have changed: Fuel pump, filter, pressure reg.,coolant temp sensor,air intake temp sensor, crank sensor, cleaned the mas and the iac valve. I pulled a code today 211. The cel light does come on when the key is on and will stay on while cranking for about 3or 4 seconds then go off and it will start. It didn,t act as bad until I cleaned the mas and iac and reset the eec. Now it is really having problems running. Sorry about the long post but just trying to give as much info. as possible.
 


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Iron Weasel

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Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.

Possible causes:

Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).
On-board transmitter (2-way radio).
Loose wires/connectors.

NOTE: If arcing of secondary ignition components is present, service as necessary. If an on-board transmitter (2-way radio) is present, use the manufacturer's instructions to check the routing of antenna and power leads.

Clear continuous memory DTC 211.
Attempt to start vehicle.
Run engine for 5 to 10 minutes, exercising the throttle.
Rerun Key On Engine Off Self-Test and record Continuous Memory DTCs.
Is Continuous Memory DTC 211 present?
 




bustedknuckle

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Just ran test and DID!! finally get a cel light while it was running the first code was a 335 and the stored codes were 211 & 124
 




Iron Weasel

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Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 335 indicates the Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) / Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor is out of Self-Test range.

Possible causes are:

Damaged PFE/DPFE sensor.
Obstructed pressure inlet hose(s).
Garage exhaust ventilation system affecting PFE/DPFE sensor operation.

Continuous Memory DTC 124 indicates TP value was higher than expected.

DTC 124 & 125 were intended to detect in-range failures of the TP sensor. The PCM compares information from the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, TP sensor, and fuel injection pulse width. If any one value appears to be out of line with the other two an in-range trouble code will be set.

You could be looking at a bad TPS from the sounds of it - so start with that one then mess with whatever codes are remaining. If you want, you can try taking a meter to the TPS, you'll want to backprobe the gray / white wire and the gray / red wire and then see what the voltage of the TPS is while you move it by hand - don't use the pedal. It should be between 0.4v - 4.5v and increase smoothly as you open the throttle. If it jumps around then the sensor is bad. Also, if you don't get a voltage reading, switch the leads around...I forgot which wire needs the positive lead.
 




MrShorty

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SOP when resolving a bunch of codes is to focus on the KOEO codes first, so I would suggest starting with the KOEO 335. Recognize that, because KOEO codes are set with the engine off, they almost have to be electrical in nature. In this case, specifically, focus on the DPFE circuit rather than the EGR valve.
 




bustedknuckle

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checked the dpfe and had 7.3 volts when disconected and looked like the south end of a north walking mule, checked the tps: 1.2 volts when closed 5.71 at WO with no erratic behavior between.
 




Iron Weasel

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checked the dpfe and had 7.3 volts when disconected and looked like the south end of a north walking mule, checked the tps: 1.2 volts when closed 5.71 at WO with no erratic behavior between.

KOEO (Key On, Engine Off) voltage of the DPFE should only be 1.3v maximum.
Disconnect the DPFE harness and check the voltage, it should be between 4v - 6v. If it is, replace the sensor.

TPS should never be more than 4.5v, much less 5.7v unless you've drilled out the bolt slots for it and it's horribly misaligned. Personally, mine sits around 0.97v completely closed and 4.513v at WOT, so if yours is showing 5.71v, that's what's causing the PCM to throw the 124 DTC.
 




bustedknuckle

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Will pick up new tps tomorrow and new dpfe sensor, this truck is becoming like my wife, everything is going to pot at the same time ( please don,t tell her this I still get lucky some time). Oh BrooklynBay I hope you found this thread. I really appreciate everybodys help, I have to use this truck for work and I'm using my brothers spare right now.
 




BrooklynBay

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bustedknuckle

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OK today I replaced the TPC, DPFE, and coil. Cleared codes and repeated the test and got a 332 code. I didn,t get the 211 code but it did turn over longer than normal with the cel on before the light went off and it started.
 




Iron Weasel

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Did you make sure all the vacuum lines and electrical connectors to the EGR & DPFE sensor were hooked back up?

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 332 indicates the Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) / Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) did not change when the PCM output a duty cycle to the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid requesting EGR flow. Possible causes are:

Icing
Obstructed EGR passages
Vacuum hose leaks.
Obstructed vacuum hoses.
Damaged EVR solenoid.
Damaged PFE/DPFE sensor. New sensor, so you can disregard this one.
Damaged EGR valve.
Damaged PCM.
Key "OFF".
Disconnect and inspect vacuum hose between EVR solenoid and EGR valve for blockage, kinks, etc. Service as necessary and reconnect after inspection.
Disconnect vacuum hose at EGR valve and connect hose to a vacuum gauge.
Rerun Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test while observing vacuum gauge.
Is vacuum reading less than 3kPa (1 in-Hg) throughout the test (disregard DTC output)?
 




bustedknuckle

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Did the test: No vacuum at EGR, checked line and it is good. 18 going into the EVR and nothing coming out going to EGR. pulled the cap off the EVR and covered stem on the EVR and then i had vacuum at EGR, does this mean i have a bad EVR.
 




Iron Weasel

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That is precisely what it means.

According to the manual, if you have 15psi or more from the vacuum source, but nothing coming out of the EGR Vacuum Regulator, then the EVR needs to be replaced.

Here's what it actually says:

Key "OFF".
Disconnect source vacuum hose at EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid and connect hose to a vacuum gauge.
Start the engine and let it idle while observing the vacuum gauge.
Is vacuum above 15 inches at idle?
Yes -- Inspect vacuum hose from EVR Solenoid to EGR valve. If OK, replace EVR solenoid. Rerun quick test. See: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Quick Test Appendix (Detailed Testing Instructions)
No -- Replace the vacuum line connecting EVR solenoid to source vacuum. Rerun quick test. See: Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Reading Diagnostic Trouble Codes\Quick Test Appendix (Detailed Testing Instructions)
 




bustedknuckle

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Changed EVR solenoid, cleared all codes and did the test again. I did'nt get any codes, did a test drive and everything was fine. I'm going to try it in the morning and have a friend that gets up that early on hand if I have a problem, unless anybody out there wants to pick me up at 5:45 a.m. I'll post any results.
 




bustedknuckle

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Well it did it again today! With this post let me tell you how I use the truck. I go from store to store stocking soda pop ( Coke) I'm usually in a store for about 1 to 2 hours and I go to 5-6 stores a day. That being said, the truck started this morning after it turned over for about 3-4 seconds and ran fine to my first store ( about 6 miles) I came out in about an hour and it didn't want to start it would turn over fine but when it would hit it would spit and sputter and even backfired once. It finally did start drove to my next store about 2 miles and it ran fine.
Came out about an hour later and the same thing,didn,t want to start. Finialy started, got it home, ran a code test and got a 539 and a 211.
 




Iron Weasel

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DTC 539
A/C or defrost "ON" during Self-Test.

Nothing to worry about if you actually had the A/C on....if you didn't have it on then it might be a cause for concern.

As for the 211 DTC, click the link and follow the steps.
https://docs.google.com/document/ed...eAOcBROFCrovzfFZakkp5o&hl=en&authkey=CLiQpOkP

From going through the troubleshooting steps to compile that document, your problems lies with either the PCM or an ignition component. You've already replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor, so if your diagnosis gives the OK to the PCM, the Camshaft Position Sensor seems like a good candidate for further troubleshooting.
 




bustedknuckle

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Sorry for taking so long to post again I had to put an engine in my wifes Grand Am (POS) but paid for. Did the test and I'll post the finding: pin 4 to pin 26 2.6k ohms, pin 4 to pin 56 0 ohms, pin 4 to pin 40 18K ohms, pin 4 to pin 60 18K ohms, pin 4 to pin 46 2.6K ohms and climbs. This is all at the pcm connector on the NC 4 test I got 5 ohms so I guessed that was OK.
 




bustedknuckle

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One other thing, I did take it to the Ford dealer and have them put it on the computer. They told me that it was not putting out the 5-volts needed every time and they would start with the battery cables. I changed the cables and it's still doing it.
 




bustedknuckle

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Well guess what I think I found it!!! First of all, in all the testing I found out that I had a bad alternator. Then my bud from across the street ( the ASE master) earned his cold beer. He said we needed to recreate the time when I'm having my problem. So I first put the ICM in the freezer for about an hour then hooked it up and no change. Then I put the PCM in the freezer for the same time and hooked it up and what do you know it just turned over and would not start we then turned a hair dryer on it and it started! I guess a new PCM is in my future. This just goes to show that trouble shooting is your friend. Thanks to all, I will post my results.
 


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bustedknuckle

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Just to let everybody know that the PCM was the problem. Got one from Advance for $104.00 and it's running fine now. Just hope this thread may help someone else in the future.
 




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