STP oil Treatment and SOHC timing chain rattle

[bluestream1]

I have found that using one bottle of STP oil treatment with my oil change will eliminate 90% of the timing chain rattle that has plagued my engine. Has anyone else had the same results?

Also, does anyone know why this timing chain rattle is much worse when the engine in cold? In the winter the noise in brutal, and I'm embarrassed to take anyone in my truck; some think it’s a diesel…

 

[frickea86]

if your truck is starting to sound like a diesel, i would recommend not driving it anymore. you really need to replace the front and rear timing chain cassette and chain tensioner. this problem will only get worse and will cost you greatly later down the road.

what is happening is your plastic front and rear timing chain cassettes are allowing the timing chain to slap around causing more wear on the chain its self and if not fixed properly, you could have the chain jump a sprocket and have a valve smack a cylinder or even have the chain come totally off and cause a whole lot of damage.

use the search feature guy, this is a very well known issue and there are a lot of helpful threads out there packed full of more information.

 

[Space Truckin']

STP is not the solution. This slightly modified quote is from one of many previous threads about this problem.

While the front and rear cam timing cassettes and tensioners were very similar, the root cause of the problem was oil draining out of the oil galley for the front tensioner after the engine was turned off. When the engine was restarted, the front tensioner did not have initial oil pressure and did not maintain tension on the chain resulting in damage. The plastic material used in the cassette was a contributing factor in the failure but was not the root cause. The design of the rear oil galley did maintain tensioner oil pressure at engine startup. Consequently, the rear cassette does not fail as the front does even though they were made from the same material. The most critical part in solving this problem is the revised front tensioner and new oil restrictor that is installed in the oil galley, not the new material used to make the cassette as is commonly believed. (In contrast, the failure of the jackshaft tensioner and guide is directly related to the material used, but that is a different problem.) The timing cassette warranty for ‘97 and ’98 models was extended to 100K miles in April of 2001 (see TSB 01M01). Remember this part failure took time and by 2001 a typical ’97 had about 40K miles on it. The trend had become apparent but unfortunately, by then a lot of engines had been built using the faulty design. As mileage increased on newer models, so did failures and they were added to the warranty extension. I believe both problems (cam timing cassette and jackshaft) were completely solved by 2002 and no 2003 or newer models are affected.

If the noise is only during cold starts and goes away completely within two minutes (Fords time spec) it would mean you probably do not have major damage to the cam timing cassette. If this is the case there is a relatively simple and inexpensive fix. Replace your front tensioner now and you could avoid replacing everything else and save a lot of money. The revised tensioner kit also includes the new oil galley restrictor (do not skip installing this critical part) and the revised lower intake manifold gaskets that solve the cold start rough idle problem. The kit costs about $40 to $60 depending on how much your Ford parts guy likes you. The tensioner is next to the thermostat. The intake manifold does need to be removed first but that is easy. If you wait until failure, the tensioner still has to be replaced so you have nothing to lose and a lot to gain by doing it now.

 

[CDW6212R]

The chain or chains have too much slack in them, more when cold. The lack of chain tension is harmful to the valvetrain and eventually will end in failure. The damage will be much more than the several hundred dollar fix it now price. Good luck,

 

[bluestream1]

Guys...I know STP is not the solution. I am very familiar with the problem. I have lived with it for 4 years. My noise is coming from the Primary chain. This is the chain that goes from the crank to the Jackshaft. The rattle only occcurs from 2500 to 2800 RPM, and is worst with a cold engine. I am not getting any noise from the cam chains (yet). I have the Oasis report on my truck and program 00M12 was done a while ago. I need to get the 2U3Z-6D256-CA kit installed at some point. I have 173,000 KM (107K Miles) on the truck now, and have to bite the bullet and install the kit. I am not looking forward to doing it, although my Ford dealer will lend me the special cam alignment tool for free.

MY question is why does STP make the rattle stop? I would guess that the thicker oil would have something to do with it, and yet with a cold engine (thick oil) and no STP the ratttle is more pronounced. In the winter when the engine does not get up to summer type temps, the rattle in most severe. I would think that cold chains would have less slack, as metal typically expands when heated.

 

[CDW6212R]

Please do not confuse the names of the parts. The jackshaft chain is not your problem, that is very reliable and so is the guide and tensioner for it.

The serious issue with the SOHC engines is three things, one is the plastic material of the first 97-01 model timing chain cassettes. That name designates the timing chain, timing gear, and the guide for the chain, which has plastic molded to it. The second big issue is the timing chain tensioners, which have springs inside of them which often wear out sooner than most other parts. The third issue is the original engines which had no check valve in the oil circuit leading to the front timing chain tensioner.

One of the two obsolete TSB kits was for the front timing chain tensioner, and that check valve. You likely do not have that check valve, because that greatly reduces the start up noise by trapping some oil at the tensioner.

The other obsolete TSB was for the front timing chain cassette. No special servicing was done by Ford for the jackshaft chain/tensioner, or the rear cassette. The front jackshaft parts should be changed when work is done on the front of the engine. The rear cassette is something that Ford gambled on not changing, and most of us are doing the same thing. Good luck on four more years.

 

[bluestream1]

Please do not confuse the names of the parts. The jackshaft chain is not your problem, that is very reliable and so is the guide and tensioner for it.

The serious issue with the SOHC engines is three things, one is the plastic material of the first 97-01 model timing chain cassettes. That name designates the timing chain, timing gear, and the guide for the chain, which has plastic molded to it. The second big issue is the timing chain tensioners, which have springs inside of them which often wear out sooner than most other parts. The third issue is the original engines which had no check valve in the oil circuit leading to the front timing chain tensioner.

One of the two obsolete TSB kits was for the front timing chain tensioner, and that check valve. You likely do not have that check valve, because that greatly reduces the start up noise by trapping some oil at the tensioner.

The other obsolete TSB was for the front timing chain cassette. No special servicing was done by Ford for the jackshaft chain/tensioner, or the rear cassette. The front jackshaft parts should be changed when work is done on the front of the engine. The rear cassette is something that Ford gambled on not changing, and most of us are doing the same thing. Good luck on four more years.

Don, thanks for your insight into this issue. I am a little confused...

1) If the primary chain is so reliable why is the update kit (2U3Z-6D256-CA) designed to stop the 2400-2800 RPM rattle. This is the kit my dealer is recommending me to have installed.

2) Why were only 96 and 97 SOHC vehicles offered the ONP 01M01 program? This was to replace the front cam chain cassettes if I am correct. 1998 to 2001 were never offered this program.

3) Are you saying that there is a new front cam chain tensioner now available? One newer than the 00M12 program installed? (This was for vehicles built before April 7th 2000)

 

[CDW6212R]

The recalls or TSB's were extended at one time to the five year or 75,000 mile mark. The fix that Ford did with these guides was the use of 2002 model SOHC timing chain cassettes. The parts look very similar, but evidently the plastic on the 2002+ parts are a better quality material. Those only cost $60 wholesale, and the total for all of my parts was about $150.

I skipped the rear cassette(engine must come out), and did most of the front engine timing chain parts. While in there doing any work in the front or timing, it's smart to replace the jackshaft chain, it's tensioner, its guide, and the gears if available timely. I didn't want to wait for a special order of the jackshaft gears and guide, so I skipped those. The parts are not very bad in cost, the labor of any of that is what can be expensive. Accumulate the parts and try to make plans to get the work done. No guarantees, but the new parts will last longer than the old ones.

Try to find someone who will be very patient in setting the timing, That is crucial for performance and economy. Good luck,

 

[BubbaFL]

I have found that using one bottle of STP oil treatment with my oil change will eliminate 90% of the timing chain rattle that has plagued my engine. Has anyone else had the same results?

I just put a bottle in today - it reduced the 2500rpm rattle noticeably. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Space Truckin']

Please do not confuse the names of the parts. The jackshaft chain is not your problem, that is very reliable and so is the guide and tensioner for it.

While the cam timing chain tensioner and cassette failure is more common, the jackshaft/primary tensioner and guide are a known problem as well. It is what failed first on mine and Ford has upgraded them too.

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh it does look cheap(tensioner) compared to old timing chains with no guides or tensioner. I think Ford was experimenting with that also. I believe it is supposed to take up slack in the chain as it ages and grows. They probably were trying to lengthen service intervals. If so I think that that didn't work very well.

 

[MetallicaRedneck]

Need help here badly

Got a '99 SOHC with the timing chain rattling issue, the truck sounds like a diesel, and the truck has tons of miles on it. Is there a cheap fix for this, i don't have $1500 to fix this according to a local mechanic? What part of the assembly could be causing this? I need to save what money i can.

 

[bluestream1]

There is no cheap fix.

It's the primary timing chain that goes from the crank to the (intermediate) jackshaft. I drive like a Granny, and try to keep RPM below 2000 so that at least I minimze the Rattle, and hopefully the wear. I doubt this helps a whole lot, but who knows.

Oil treatment products like STP do keep the noise way down, but no one really knows why...

 

[redhill]

STP is not the solution. This slightly modified quote is from one of many previous threads about this problem.

Hello,

Appreciate the insightful post. Is this the same for the 01 Sport Trac?

 

[Flash]

It was the jackshaft chain making the noise in mine.
Had I known that I might not have been in such a hurry to do the chains.

 

[gdgiordano]

It was the jackshaft chain making the noise in mine.
Had I known that I might not have been in such a hurry to do the chains.

Are the jackshaft chains easier? Mine doesn't have a rattle, just a grinding noise on startup regardless of temperature when then the engine hasn't been run. My oil is only 1000 miles old. Would there be a product that would thin it out to help?

It does it when it goes through the normal involuntary rev to 1800. Is there a way I can disable that rpm spike?

 

[koda2000]

Are the jackshaft chains easier? Mine doesn't have a rattle, just a grinding noise on startup regardless of temperature when then the engine hasn't been run. My oil is only 1000 miles old. Would there be a product that would thin it out to help?

It does it when it goes through the normal involuntary rev to 1800. Is there a way I can disable that rpm spike?

No additive. What I'm doing is using 0W30 Mob 1 full synthetic oil for the winter, putting my foot to the floor (to disable the fuel injectors) and cranking the engine until I see oil pressure, then releasing the gas pedal. No RPM spike, no chain noise. I plan to put together a pre-oiling system in the spring.

 

[gdgiordano]

No additive. What I'm doing is using 0W30 Mob 1 full synthetic oil for the winter, putting my foot to the floor (to disable the fuel injectors) and cranking the engine until I see oil pressure, then releasing the gas pedal. No RPM spike, no chain noise. I plan to put together a pre-oiling system in the spring.

Ok I use that oil as well. I tried it just now. The vehicle had oil pressure(in theory) cause I had just driven it. The oil psi gauge doesn't react, but once the vehicle is running it goes the its normal middle position.

How do I tell if there is PSI? Can this harm the vehicle?

 

[koda2000]

Ok I use that oil as well. I tried it just now. The vehicle had oil pressure(in theory) cause I had just driven it. The oil psi gauge doesn't react, but once the vehicle is running it goes the its normal middle position.

How do I tell if there is PSI? Can this harm the vehicle?

You'll know you have oil pressure when the oil pressure gauge jumps up to it's normal position. No, doing this will not harm the engine, although it is putting extra wear on the starter motor. From sitting overnight I find it can take as long as 15 seconds of cranking before I see my oil pressure gauge pop up. Other times 5-7 seconds.

 

[gdgiordano]

You'll know you have oil pressure when the oil pressure gauge jumps up to it's normal position. No, doing this will harm the engine, although it is putting extra wear on the starter motor. From sitting overnight I find it can take as long as 15 seconds of cranking before I see my oil pressure gauge pop up. Other times 5-7 seconds.

Did you mean to say doing this will **not** harm the engine?

also, I think many of us would love a guide for doing a pre oiler. I've asked some mechanics and they were like wtf is a pre oiler.