stuck lug nuts!

My wheels haven't been removed in ages, more like decades. I managed to get all wheels off except one. The one (Driver side Rear) has two (2) lug nuts that will not come off...

I have tried: Cheater bar over my breaker bar (tweaked the breaker bar)
Shocking the lug nut and rim with a mallet & dead blow hammer. Not a single budge... And now the stock pot metal lug nut covers are rounding off...

So any advice would be appreciated!

 

[CDW6212R]

I just experienced the same problem on my wife's 2004 Explorer Eddie Bauer. Impact wrench wouldn't touch them after many tries at 115 pis air pressure. Front left wheel finally loosened after heating with a propane torch & impact wrench. For the rest of the on the remaining three wheels I used a four foot pipe on a breaker bar: took my full weight on the end of the pipe and a couple bounces ...

It is my opinion that dis-similar metal corrosion between the steel lug nuts and the aluminum wheels virtually welded the nuts to the wheels. I believe that aluminum anti-seize paste should have been put on the shoulder of the lug nuts (NOT the threads of the lugs ...) to eliminate this problem.

I'm sorry but that was from an impact wrench being used to tighten the lug nuts, and they hit them too hard. The proper torque is under 100lbft, and most impacts will torque nuts to 200-400lbft, depending on how strong they are, and how long the operator holds the trigger.

I've never had a nut not let go by my hand and my 1/2" breaker bar. Some have felt tighter, say maybe 125-150lbft feel, but nothing requiring a longer extension pipe etc. The anti-seize needs to go on the threads, not too much but enough to keep them from seizing badly from years without removal.

I also suggest applying anit-seize on the rear axle flanges, where the rotor inner face touches. That can seize together if given enough time in climates with some corrosion tendencies.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Anti-seize is definitely not a problem.

Hopefully the rims are coming off for new tires.