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Stumped

I have a lift kit with the two holes in the pivot brackets.. but mine is a 6"-8" skyjacker kit I think). My radius arm drop brackets also have "Skyjacker" written on them, that might provide a clue for you about which kit you have. My parts also came from a Ranger that was being scrapped. lol

The pics of your components look identical to the parts I have.

I use 6" springs and a FA600 pitman arm.. the steering links are nicely parallel and level, and it drives virtually like stock (no bump steer or twitchy stuff).

For the sway bar end links, I just cut my factory steel ones and found some pipe that the ends fit in, welded them up, and used pins with R-keys. I also cross drilled the pipe where the link ends were exposed in the holes and welded there for added strength.

Front brake lines... you can get longer super-duty Ford truck lines (I forget what years) and do that, but for a while I ran a mod that relocated the body side of the line/fitting lower a few inches. It was a bugger to re-craft the steel line to fit, but it worked great.

If you would like pics of any of this stuff, let me know I'd be glad to help.

could i see some pics? also what did u do for the rear SOA?
 



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I just got dark out, so I'll have to get pics tomorrow.. I do have two pics on hand of the brake line relocate brackets. I just used some flat stock I had laying around. When my stock front brake lines started getting in bad shape (the shell started cracking) I put super duty lines on it... but the super duty lines like to rub the tires if I don't keep 'em tied back.

and yes.. I just have a SOA rear, no swaybar. The factory shocks are mounted stock at top, and the bottoms are mounted where the bottom sway bar bracket holes are. Bolt alignment is weird, but it works fine.
 

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Oh... just a note about the FA600 arm.

I'm not sure about this.. but I wonder if the front end gets pushed forward a bit when the kit is installed (wheelbase being slightly longer than stock) if that would cause the mentioned problem with steering arms hitting. (?)
 






I just got dark out, so I'll have to get pics tomorrow.. I do have two pics on hand of the brake line relocate brackets. I just used some flat stock I had laying around. When my stock front brake lines started getting in bad shape (the shell started cracking) I put super duty lines on it... but the super duty lines like to rub the tires if I don't keep 'em tied back.

and yes.. I just have a SOA rear, no swaybar. The factory shocks are mounted stock at top, and the bottoms are mounted where the bottom sway bar bracket holes are. Bolt alignment is weird, but it works fine.

lol yea if u could get some better pics really cnt c the image well in these thanks again!
 






I remember reading about the super-duty brake lines. I believe they come from a early 2000's model, four wheel drive. Will try to find the page once I finish this Physical Security Policy assignment.
 






This thread has super duty line info/part numbers:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274882

This thread has more info (mine and others) about brake line relocation brackets:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=244981

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Remember, lines for a 91-92 with rear ABS uses different lines than a 93-94 with 4 wheel ABS. You can plug the one "extra" port on these lines for use on a 93-94, although I believe those super duty lines can be purchased for those years with 4 wheel ABS (I still can't remember the years. heh).

Frankly, the super duty lines are a desirable upgrade. However, the brake line extenders DO work very well. I *think* I just drilled two holes in flat stock 3" apart and reformed the steel lines to reach the bottom hole of the bracket, and just bolted the top of the bracket to where the line used to attach. The downside is.. is you damage a line trying to get them re-formed (a very real possibility), the cost of fixing them would pay for the super duty lines (in money and aggravation!). :)

Attached are 4 pics.

Two pics are of the super duty lines, installed on my '92.
(I have a '93 I'm about to Mod.. so it'll be getting some lines mods soon also, I hope. It has the 4 wheel ABS.)

Two pics are of the rear end SOA swap.. how the shocks are mounted, spring flip, etc..
The spring pads were removed from the axle and moved to the top in this case (It was done when I got the truck already), but if it were me I'd buy the pads from Tractor Supply or something and leave the stocks one there.

EDIT TO ADD: oops I got the pics out of order. :-/
 

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Here are some pics of the front lift....

You should note that I have 6" springs installed, but the pivots are mounted in the wrong spot for my 6-8" kit. It just went down that way, but when I had it aligned the castor/camber adjusters were max'ed out to get Camber in order... and my Castor is doody.

Had I installed the axle halves in the other location, caber and castor both would likely have worked out fine. Bad castor, however, can be lived with.

The goofy electrical ground strap gizmo is to keep my sway bar from sliding to the right (it likes to do that).. I have some two piece split collars to install (a better fix) but I ain't got it done yet. My sway bar came from a 2wd.. it makes my end links fit funny, but I don't care. One of my sway bar end links is bolted up normal, and the other side is "removable" with pins and r-keys.
 

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Good grief, I need to get under there and clean/paint. My poor truck has been driven hard for three years or so now, since putting it together.

For reference, here's the two pics of ride height... right after the build and now.. front springs WILL settle over time. :D

...

This info, and a lot more, can be found using the search function.. however if you're like me you never get just exactly the right term to pull the right info. LOL
 

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This info, and a lot more, can be found using the search function.. however if you're like me you never get just exactly the right term to pull the right info. LOL

Aint that the truth.
 






just pokin' around the site :) truck looks awesome with the black shoes
 






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