Stupid to not replace rear main - pics

[Number4]

Here's a picture of my 94's rear main before cleaning it. Pulled the engine for other reasons. Don't know if this was leaking or the pan, valve covers? I don't remember anymore.

Actually, I did use engine degreaser on the block.

 

[Number4]

Picture of seal area cleaned.

As a note, the pans been removed and is reinstalled temporarily.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Yea, if you have it out... why not. Mine wasn't leaking but I replaced it, just for good measure. It's a real disappointment to do a bunch of work and then get everything back together just to have it leak.

 

[Anime]

The rear main and the pan gasket leak, so it's best to replace both if you have the engine out and the means to pull the old seal and press in a new one.

You'll want to use something like the Fel-pro PTFE rubber rear main seal rather than just any old regular brand, including OE Motorcraft, since they will just continue to leak.

The crank sealing surface is super slick, too slick for a regular seal lip to do it's job, so it needs a better seal than what it came with.

There are also shim kits that put a paper-thin shim over the crank surface so it isn't so slick anymore, and let you use a regular seal again, but I'd use those as a last resort if even a PTFE seal doesn't seal it up.


You should also consider replacing the front crank seal, the timing chain, and I'd also suggest replacing the block expansion plugs with new brass ones.

 

[natenkiki2004]

You should also consider replacing the front crank seal, the timing chain, and I'd also suggest replacing the block expansion plugs with new brass ones.

You mean the core plugs for the water jacket? Why brass? It looks like brass was OEM but wouldn't nickel-plated last longer against corrosion?

 

[Jason94sport]

Yeah mine is leaking...need to clutch to go before it's replaced.

 

[Anime]

You mean the core plugs for the water jacket? Why brass? It looks like brass was OEM but wouldn't nickel-plated last longer against corrosion?

They're expansion plugs - they allow some room for the cast iron block to expand when it heats up to operating temp - they're also called "freeze plugs" since in the worst case scenario, they allow the plugs to pop out should the coolant/water mix not have a low enough freezing point and it expands inside the block.

Brass is generally a higher-end replacement than nickel-plated steel, which rusts. Given the minor difference in pricing, and the hassle it is to replace one of them while the engine is in the vehicle, it's well worth getting new brass ones.

 

[Number4]

The only thing I'm not doing to this is pulling the crank, Pistons or cams. Took the heads off because I thought I had a carbon issue, I didn't. Oh well. Engines out, has 133k and time for new clutch anyways.

Already popped out all the freeze plugs (on the sides) and have brass replacements in hand. Wish they just installed brass OE.
The non brass plugs will rot from the inside out, though mine were perfect.
Not the case on my S-15 I used to have.

Have the updated rear seal, plan to buy the Ford tool (OTC) as I don't like the idea of seating it wrong and finding out it leaks after the engines back in.