• Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^

Solved Successful '02 4.6L AC Bypass

Boston Strong

Elite Explorer
Joined
May 26, 2013
Messages
1
Reaction score
2
City, State
Boston, MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Eddie Bauer V8
Hello all, I've been a member for quite a while and have learned a lot here from wheel bearing replacement (front and rear) to intake manifold replacement to transmission issues and, ultimately, replacement. I am grateful to all those who took the time to post and help me and others out. Hopefully I can pay it forward with my 1st post.
My '02 4.6L threw the belt a few days ago, leaving me in a bit of a pickle as I was off the main road and about 5 miles from the nearest parts store. I was lucky enough to find someone who would deliver the new belt to me (!). Luckily, I had a good supply of tools on hand and installed the new belt in a parking lot. When I finally started it up, there was a new and unfriendly sound for a few seconds. I quickly shut it off and checked for pieces of the old belt or a stray cat under the hood. Neither was found and the noise eventually went away.
I drove about 50 miles home without incident, thinking that I had lucked out. When I started it up the next morning, the sound was back and worse. Again, it lasted for a while and went away. I turned on the AC and the mystery was solved. The noise was back, worse than ever. What to do? I use my Ex for work every day and had a full schedule with no room for down time.
Once again I turned to this forum for help and ideas. I definitely couldn't afford to spend the time to replace the components as well as all the flushing, vacuuming, refilling and recharging necessary to do a proper repair.
I found a few posts about bypassing the AC and decided that was my best option until I could find the time.
After reading quite a few posts here as well as checking YouTube, I came up with a lot of info for older models and 4.0Ls, but none for my application. I did use some of the info for F150s with 4.6L and 5.4L, but mine has a couple of extra idler pulleys on the driver's side.
After several trips to local parts stores, I came up with this solution and it works great.
I removed the upper fan shroud and fan just to make things easier this time. Definitely worth the effort, IMO.
I replaced the idler pulley above the belt tensioner with a grooved one of the same diameter, as the grooved side of the belt will now ride on the pulley. There were no clearance issues at all with a Carquest/Dayco #89130 idler pulley.
After measuring with a piece of twine I tried 3 different belts, finally arriving at the perfect length of 84" and a Duralast #840K6 did the trick. The photos show that the belt needs to run on the outside of the new idler pulley, to the tensioner, then directly to the damper pulley. Route the belt from there the same as the stock diagram.
Works like a charm and I bought myself some time with a relatively easy fix. Luckily, my power windows still work!

AC Bypass 1.jpg


AC Bypass 2.jpg


AC Bypass 3.jpg


AC Bypass 4.jpg
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




WaterBrat

Member
Joined
February 18, 2014
Messages
87
Reaction score
6
City, State
Tulum, MX Originally Austin, Tx
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Explorer EB V8 4WD
Excellent post. I have replaced to A/C compressor twice in the last 4 years (first time the shop probably didn't vac the lines). At least now I know what spare parts I need to throw in the EX for extended road trips.

Thanks
 




rambo3000

New Member
Joined
October 26, 2012
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
I have looked every were for some thing like this for days thank goodness I found you. I pretty much did the same thing you did almost 100% but I went with 84 5/8 belt but same pulley. The car drove like a dream for two days and then all of a sudden I pulled into my drive way and it died, it starts back up and then dies again, as long as I have the idle above 1 I'm ok if not it dies. I let it sit for 45 minutes and its ok again. I have no vacume leaks and the MAF clean and AIC about 1 year ago and then only started happening after I change the belt.

Also on another note the engine did feel a little hot, so im wondering if the belt I have is to big. I'm going to try a smaller belt but would love your advise.
 




WaterBrat

Member
Joined
February 18, 2014
Messages
87
Reaction score
6
City, State
Tulum, MX Originally Austin, Tx
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Explorer EB V8 4WD
Verify routing of belt. Use an OBD scanner to get operating temp. Reclean MAF and AIC as those are (from what I read) major causes of low idle. Remove Positive batt. cable overnight so can relearn fuel trims. That's all that comes to mind from me.
 








WaterBrat

Member
Joined
February 18, 2014
Messages
87
Reaction score
6
City, State
Tulum, MX Originally Austin, Tx
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Explorer EB V8 4WD
It is nothing. Good Luck and let us know.
 




rambo3000

New Member
Joined
October 26, 2012
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
Put on a smaller belt just like yours 84" cleaned MAF and AIC un hooked pos side of the battery over night. Now it turns over and dies, yesterday it would idle for a little then die. About a year ago I had some like this this happened every tried the above with out the belt and nothing then some one suggest clogged cats and thats what it turn about to be so wondering if maybe that again, its been about a year and I drive allot around town. Starting to think its a money pit, how do you go and how much money do you spend and then to always worry about breaking down..

Thanks for your help, I think I might be tapping out.
 




Drewmcg

Elite Explorer
Joined
August 27, 2015
Messages
731
Reaction score
90
Location
Michigan
City, State
Ann Arbor, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 XLT 4WD
2002 XLS 2WD
Cats would not go bad in a year unless (i) they were defective to begin with; or (ii) your engine fuel system is not functioning properly, and dumping unburnt fuel in the cats and causing it to ignite there. You can have a shop do a backpressure test on the exhaust pipe to test for failed cat(s).
 




rambo3000

New Member
Joined
October 26, 2012
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
OK well it looks like it was the AIC all along..... Kind crazy it would go 24 hours after bypassing the AC. She seems to be running fine but only time will tell. Thank you for the time you spent trying to help. I did clean the IAC but it must have just been bad.

I was about ready to start drilling holes in the CAt to see if they were the problem, glad I did not.
 




Drewmcg

Elite Explorer
Joined
August 27, 2015
Messages
731
Reaction score
90
Location
Michigan
City, State
Ann Arbor, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 XLT 4WD
2002 XLS 2WD
Think you mean the IAC . . . . Congrats.
 








JGG

New Member
Joined
November 7, 2019
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Southern California
City, State
Southern California
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Explorer XLT 4.6 2WD
Hello all, I've been a member for quite a while and have learned a lot here from wheel bearing replacement (front and rear) to intake manifold replacement to transmission issues and, ultimately, replacement. I am grateful to all those who took the time to post and help me and others out. Hopefully I can pay it forward with my 1st post.
My '02 4.6L threw the belt a few days ago, leaving me in a bit of a pickle as I was off the main road and about 5 miles from the nearest parts store. I was lucky enough to find someone who would deliver the new belt to me (!). Luckily, I had a good supply of tools on hand and installed the new belt in a parking lot. When I finally started it up, there was a new and unfriendly sound for a few seconds. I quickly shut it off and checked for pieces of the old belt or a stray cat under the hood. Neither was found and the noise eventually went away.
I drove about 50 miles home without incident, thinking that I had lucked out. When I started it up the next morning, the sound was back and worse. Again, it lasted for a while and went away. I turned on the AC and the mystery was solved. The noise was back, worse than ever. What to do? I use my Ex for work every day and had a full schedule with no room for down time.
Once again I turned to this forum for help and ideas. I definitely couldn't afford to spend the time to replace the components as well as all the flushing, vacuuming, refilling and recharging necessary to do a proper repair.
I found a few posts about bypassing the AC and decided that was my best option until I could find the time.
After reading quite a few posts here as well as checking YouTube, I came up with a lot of info for older models and 4.0Ls, but none for my application. I did use some of the info for F150s with 4.6L and 5.4L, but mine has a couple of extra idler pulleys on the driver's side.
After several trips to local parts stores, I came up with this solution and it works great.
I removed the upper fan shroud and fan just to make things easier this time. Definitely worth the effort, IMO.
I replaced the idler pulley above the belt tensioner with a grooved one of the same diameter, as the grooved side of the belt will now ride on the pulley. There were no clearance issues at all with a Carquest/Dayco #89130 idler pulley.
After measuring with a piece of twine I tried 3 different belts, finally arriving at the perfect length of 84" and a Duralast #840K6 did the trick. The photos show that the belt needs to run on the outside of the new idler pulley, to the tensioner, then directly to the damper pulley. Route the belt from there the same as the stock diagram.
Works like a charm and I bought myself some time with a relatively easy fix. Luckily, my power windows still work!

View attachment 98564

View attachment 98565

View attachment 98566

View attachment 98567
Hello all, I've been a member for quite a while and have learned a lot here from wheel bearing replacement (front and rear) to intake manifold replacement to transmission issues and, ultimately, replacement. I am grateful to all those who took the time to post and help me and others out. Hopefully I can pay it forward with my 1st post.
My '02 4.6L threw the belt a few days ago, leaving me in a bit of a pickle as I was off the main road and about 5 miles from the nearest parts store. I was lucky enough to find someone who would deliver the new belt to me (!). Luckily, I had a good supply of tools on hand and installed the new belt in a parking lot. When I finally started it up, there was a new and unfriendly sound for a few seconds. I quickly shut it off and checked for pieces of the old belt or a stray cat under the hood. Neither was found and the noise eventually went away.
I drove about 50 miles home without incident, thinking that I had lucked out. When I started it up the next morning, the sound was back and worse. Again, it lasted for a while and went away. I turned on the AC and the mystery was solved. The noise was back, worse than ever. What to do? I use my Ex for work every day and had a full schedule with no room for down time.
Once again I turned to this forum for help and ideas. I definitely couldn't afford to spend the time to replace the components as well as all the flushing, vacuuming, refilling and recharging necessary to do a proper repair.
I found a few posts about bypassing the AC and decided that was my best option until I could find the time.
After reading quite a few posts here as well as checking YouTube, I came up with a lot of info for older models and 4.0Ls, but none for my application. I did use some of the info for F150s with 4.6L and 5.4L, but mine has a couple of extra idler pulleys on the driver's side.
After several trips to local parts stores, I came up with this solution and it works great.
I removed the upper fan shroud and fan just to make things easier this time. Definitely worth the effort, IMO.
I replaced the idler pulley above the belt tensioner with a grooved one of the same diameter, as the grooved side of the belt will now ride on the pulley. There were no clearance issues at all with a Carquest/Dayco #89130 idler pulley.
After measuring with a piece of twine I tried 3 different belts, finally arriving at the perfect length of 84" and a Duralast #840K6 did the trick. The photos show that the belt needs to run on the outside of the new idler pulley, to the tensioner, then directly to the damper pulley. Route the belt from there the same as the stock diagram.
Works like a charm and I bought myself some time with a relatively easy fix. Luckily, my power windows still work!

View attachment 98564

View attachment 98565

View attachment 98566

View attachment 98567

Hello. I went to do this after reading your post. But I've come to an issue. My Exploder is a 2003. Could you post some pics of the drivers side pulley routing? I ordered the same size belt as you did, but it's too long. Unless I'm routing it wrong. Anyway, any help you could provide would be great. Thanks in advance!

Update: Never mind. I figured it out. And your solution worked like a charm! Thanks for posting it! I didn't realize how much power a failing(now failed) A/C compressor was robbing from the engine! It's quite peppy and responsive now! Not only that, what I thought was your typical Ford power steering whine is now gone as well! So, a double win! Thanks again!
 




Top