Successful Radiator Change and COP coils

[Dora2007]

No big deal, just wanted to add my experience of a successful radiator change in an ’07 V8.

The FordTechMakuloco video (www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HmbuV4yCWo) was invaluable!

I did it this last 60-degree-in-Febuary weekend. My advice is if you do reasonable auto work, it can be done. Take your time and plan for a full couple of days. It’s kind of a pain to separate the condenser and pull out the radiator, and then reattach back together, but slow and deliberate will get it done.

I changed the water pump and thermostat just because it was right there, and with everything else out of the way it was super simple. Really liked the o-ring seals rather than the gasket-with-sealer that I’m used to in the older vehicles.

Also changed the COP coils (already changed plugs last year). Motorcraft coils, $38 from Amazon. Had the EXACT symptoms as I’ve read plenty about, the 6th gear misfire in the 40-60MPH range. It FINALLY threw misfire codes. Now I get no misfire and in fact get a quicker, snappier downshift coming out of overdrive.

Like I said, no big deal, just a rare success story.

 

[D Hook]

$38 each?

 

[Dora2007]

$38 each?

Yes, as stated, $38.

Today, however, 2-23-17, Sold-By-Amazon is now $40.50, but a third party vendor is $33.44. I avoid third party vendors as most of my problems come from third party vendors, and Amazon has no power over third party vendors, but can ‘make it right’ on ‘sold-by shipped-by Amazon’.

These prices vary over time.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Great job, feels good when you can do it yourself.
Why did you separate the condenser ? I recall when I did mine, t was a royal pain to pull it out but I did not have to do anything with the condenser.....

 

[Dora2007]

Great job, feels good when you can do it yourself.
Why did you separate the condenser ? I recall when I did mine, t was a royal pain to pull it out but I did not have to do anything with the condenser.....

V8? I don’t know if the V6 is different. I followed the video, and in the V8, the condenser fits into the side brackets of the radiator. The condenser and hoses have to stay in, and the radiator w/side brackets needs to come out, so separate out the condenser and leave in.

I don’t know if the side brackets could be disconnected from the radiator, and the just the radiator lifted out leaving the side brackets/condenser together.

I followed the video since it was so clearly spelled out.

 

[07EddyB]

Thanks for the post and the link - I'm facing a radiator replacement myself. Do you have rear heat? Did you have any problems with flushing the system?

 

[Dora2007]

Thanks for the post and the link - I'm facing a radiator replacement myself. Do you have rear heat? Did you have any problems with flushing the system?

Don’t get me started on the rear heat. Oops, too late, you got me started.

I never had great heat. Finally felt the rear outputs and they blew cold. First Explorer so did not know ‘the plumbing’. Have ’94 Aerostar with rear heat as example; Explorer plumbed similar. Started at the rear heater core hoses under chassis, followed them towards front. Two rubbers went to metal lines, up towards engine compartment.

Then I found the two metal line ends joined by a U-bent piece of hose. NO HOT FEED to the rear at all. No wonder no heat.

I did forum research and learned about the leaking plastic Y connector. I had no such hose nor Y.

Ah … I surmised previous owner had a leaking Y, and someone simply removed the entire feed to the rear and bypassed the whole thing feeding coolant to the front core only.

Went to a dealer selling same-year used Explorer and saw the normal factory ‘plumbing’. I not only needed the Y but ALL the aluminum pieces and hoses.

Most complain about replacing the Y causes you to buy the WHOLE assembly from Ford. I was tickled it was a whole assembly because I needed THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY.

Found it on Amazon from a Ford dealer, relatively low cost. I was worried about the plastic Y and that it would leak in a few years. I found an aluminum Y - made for Chrysler vans (same problem) on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-me...ash=item43fe123dfb:g:eB0AAOSwDNdV1on-&vxp=mtr

Nice welded aluminum Y. I cut out the plastic Y and replaced it with aluminum Y. Due to physics and flow, a T will not flow the same.

Installed it all, vacuum filled with new coolant and what do you know, I now have rear heat. I guess the rear core needs hot coolant to provide heat. Whoda thunk.

I did not ‘flush’ with tap hose water because of the minerals in water - I hear tap water is not good for these systems. I did hose out both cores, and then blew out as much water as possible with compressed air. Used distilled water to dilute the Ford called for Motorcraft VC-7-B Antifreeze.

I know, more story than you wanted.

 

[jtexplorer]

What makes me nervous about replacing the radiator is that they have transmission fluid going through it. Do you have to add transmission fluid after replacing the radiator?

Thanks.
- Joe

 

[tripplec]

Depends on how much you might loose. You should be able to plug the hole with a piece of wood or something in the shop from draining too much. A few ounces won't matter anyway.

Note: See clip on your other thread if you're replacing the RAD!!

 

[Dora2007]

What makes me nervous about replacing the radiator is that they have transmission fluid going through it. Do you have to add transmission fluid after replacing the radiator?

I bought a pair of Dorman 02255 1/2” vacuum caps. Immediately after I pulled the trans lines, I capped the line and put on a hose clamp. When I went to re-install into new radiator, I pulled caps and quickly inserted the lines. Lost very little fluid that way.

BTW, BIG pain to pull the lines with the Ford Transmission Line Tool, but real easy to reinsert. Made sure I ‘lubed’ the o-rings and slopped a bit of fluid on the lines after I pulled the caps.