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Suggestions for a fried clutch?

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ktOWN , Tn
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93' Ranger XLT 4X4
My 93, 4.0, 4wd reg cab,ranger has issues in her clutch. I did find some good info searching old threads about diagnosis and repair. There is no way right now i'm gonna fork out 700 bucks for a truck worth 1500 bucks even though we go back. I Think and have been told that the oil leaking by the fly wheel has fried my clutch thanks to a bad rear main oil seal. The clutch pedal is stiff as always but it just won't engage to propel the truck forward or when it does go down the road the engine will rev higher without the truck moving faster like it should. At least i can still do yard work creepen around in 4 low but i miss towing my boat. I reckon I really need to get a TRANNY JACK to drop it instead of a homemade one. Also, do I have to have an AIR COMPRESSOR with wrench to remove bolts n stuff, i'd like an excuse to get one but anyway. Also, how hard is it to work out the transmission drop when those exhaust pipes seem to be in the way but i do remember that the tranny only ways 80 lbs. It would be an awesome accomplishment to do this job but no denying it's intimidating to me. Worst case i'd quit and have triple A tow it somewhere. Thanks for any help!
 
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Joined
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ktOWN , Tn
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93' Ranger XLT 4X4
Maybe someone could store some info on a 5spd clutch repair since I could hardly find anything on the subject however for automatics there is more attention. I should have payed more and bought a toyota! no need to help since my Ford is a piece of crap:salute:
 
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RangerX

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There's way more threads here on auto trannys, cuz most Exs came with'em. Plus they die easy. ;)
There's a few threads here on doing the clutch if you look. I know, cuz I found them when I had to replace mine. :p:
I did it in my driveway with hand tools and no experience.
I was worried about snapping bolts removing the exhaust, but I just soaked them for a couple days with PB, and had no problem. It's so much easier with the exhaust out of the way.
Search for "replace clutch", you should find some info.
Then post up with some specific questions.
 
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glfredrick

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No need to despair... Clutches are not all that hard, and you do NOT need a transmission jack or air tools to do the job -- hand tools and a friend will suffice...

Also, you can easily change out your rear main seal once the flywheel is off.

I doubt that the oil from the rear main destroyed the clutch. I've changed tons of clutches in my day, and I've yet to see one soaked in oil from a leaky rear main seal. The seal is on the opposite side of the flywheel, and any oil that leaks is thrown off and drips out the bottom of the bell housing from the centrifical force on the spinning flywheel. It never hits the clutch.

Your problem is more likely from plain old wear. I'm not sure how many miles you have, but any time after 70 K, it is due for a clutch most of the time. Also, a lot of guys have the habit of resting their left foot on the clutch pedal, which will tear out a clutch in half the time otherwise needed. I've especially seen this in off-road driving. Just keep that foot planted on the floor and trust the truck -- or get an auto... :rolleyes:

Your problem with the clutch pedal is due to the hydraulic throw-out bearing -- not the actual clutch itself. Yours sounds like it is sticky or frozen up. It will need to be replaced when you do the job.

Steps to changing the clutch (briefly):

1. Remove the negative battery cable (you'll have to pull the starter)
2. Remove the driveshafts
3. Remove the transfer case linkage, shifter, wires, and vent lines
4. Remove the t-case -- it has 5 13mm bolts and it will slide off the output shaft of the transmission once you get all the bolts out. It will not drop straight down.
5. Remove the crossmember and the mount from the bottom of the transmission
6. Remove the starter and the front block-off plate bolts
7. Remove the bell housing bolts -- do this with a long extension and an impact swivel (or an impact swivel socket -- use the impact variety, as they don't "float" around as badly as the chrome universal ones do -- tape it with black tape to hold it stiffer if need be)
8. Disconnect the hydraulic slave cylinder from its fitting in the side of the bell housing -- this takes a special tool that costs about $5.00. It is a pop-out type of hydraulic fitting -- press the tool against the inner ring and the hose will pop out. It has a check valve so you don't loose all the oil, or have to bleed the clutch slave cylinder.
9. Slide the transmission to the rear and lift it out of the way. Do this "bench press" style -- it is not that big a deal.
10. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disk by taking out the bolts around the outside edge of the flywheel. It is under spring load, but it will not "fly" off. Loosen the bolts around the flywheel a bit, then loosen them some more until they are all out. You relieve the pressure that way. Taking out all the bolts on one side will warp the pressure plate (not critcal for the old one, but important for the new!)
11. Loosen the flywheel bolts (don't worry, the flywheel will only line up ONE way -- the bolts are spaced weird so this is the case) and pull the flywheel. Take it to your local auto parts store and have it refinished.
12. CAREFULLY pop the old rear main seal backwards from its bore at the rear of the engine. Don't scratch up the crankshaft. It sometimes helps to poke a hole it it with a pick to pry it from its bore.
13. Pull the pilot bearing (borrow a puller from the auto parts store)
14. Remove the throw-out bearing from the input shaft of the transmission.

This concludes disasembly.

To re-assemble, reverse the order above.

1. Insert a new rear main seal -- tap into place with a soft faced mallet or a piece of 1 x 3. Tap it until it is flush with the edge.
2. Insert a new pilot bearing into the end of the crankshaft. Again, tap it into place with a piece of 1x3.
3. Bolt on the flywheel -- torque it to specs (borrow a torque wrench from the auto parts store). Then, CLEAN IT with brake clean spray -- any grease or fingerprints = burned spot later.
4. Clean the clutch with brake clean spray. Using the supplied (buy a clutch "kit") installation plug, hold the clutch plate, facing the correct direction, and begin installing the pressure plate.
5. Install the new throw-out bearing on the transmission input shaft -- make sure it is moving freely.
6. Slide the transmission into the spines of the clutch (you aligned the clutch disk with the alignment plug, which should have entered into the pilot bearing and everything should be perfect for sliding the tranny into place -- of course, remove the plug once the pressure plate is bolted firmly into place.
7. Bolt up the bell housing bolts.
8. Bolt on the starter and any other bolts (inspection cover)
9. Bolt on the t-case.
10. Replace the electric lines and breather vent lines
11. Lift the assembly back into place -- use whatever sort of jack you have -- you might have to use a few blocks -- then replce the crossmember.
12. Replace the driveshafts
13. Connect the hydraulic line

You are done...
 
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schmidlkofer

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wow im gonna save that to my computer thats great info.
 
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Thanks fredrick

after replacing my water pump this weekend in an all out war against removing a right hand threaded fan clutch bolt, i won, sombiatch finally broke loose with a pair of channel locks. When i try the clutch replacement if i can't win the war i'll just tow it somewhere but gonna try. Thanks for the clutch info. Now that my monthly period has passed more rational thinking can prevail and although i wish i had a tacoma with good gas mileage i'll be thankful for what i have. Thinking of getting a kit including a remanufactured flywheel with the parts so the old one won't need to be resurfaced or whatever since i hear they can get unbalanced or something. I think backing up my boat so much hurt the clutch too since it smelled funny when i parked it afterwards. Thanks again
 
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Exploderpilot

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manaen

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I think backing up my boat so much hurt the clutch too since it smelled funny when i parked it afterwards. Thanks again

That is why the manuals are rated so low for towing capacity.

Do you have manual 4x4 hubs?

If so, use the 4x4 low range in TC to help you back up while towing that way you won't need to ride the clutch. The Manual transmissions have an insanely high reverse gear which only accents the problem. Just keep the manual hubs unlocked and then lock the TC into 4low. Then backup, it will be so much easier on the clutch and transmission

Don't ever ride the clutch on these manuals you will burn it out in a heart beat. I had a 4.0l Manual ranger with 190K on it and it still drove like new with the original clutch when I sold it to get my Mounty.


You may also want to look toward the heavy duty clutch replacements like a centerforce etc...
 
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93' Ranger XLT 4X4
bummer

my truck has auto hubs, so should I put the truck in 4 low when i am backing up the boat? That sucks to hear about the tranny gearing, it does make sense because that truck just jumps into reverse and really goes even with a trailer. Thought the japs at mazda would have been smarter. That seems like an aweful lot of work to engage 4 low each time i back my boat down a ramp or putting it in the car port but then again this clutch change is gonna be so entertaining as well, jk. I think the fella i bought it from 7 years ago had just put a new clutch in before i bought it and that was a premium one like centerforce, ouch gonna have to price those critters. Was thinking of going with an Adanced auto clutch kit for 180.oo bucks=how bad are they? thanks
 
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manaen

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With the auto hubs it not as straight forward, because the hubs are locking in when the 4x4 kicks in which will cause binding and can then break 4x4 parts in the process. Personally I would recommend the warn manual hub replacements for a few reasons.
1) the manual hubs are much stronger than the auto hubs
2) the auto hubs are junk and will fail eventually which completely puts your 4x4 out of commision
3) You can keep the manuals unlocked and still use the low range on the TC to perform the slow tight manuevers required when towing and not have to ride your clutch.
4) with manual hubs locked you can switch to 4x4 at any speed.

On the downside you need to lock your hubs in manually, which really isnt bad, generally if I knew I was going offroad, or if a snow storm was coming I would just lock the hubs in the night before, and if I wanted to switch the 4x4 on I knew it would always go in.

I just know that with the ranger I had with the manual transmission whenever I needed to move a trailer around in the driveway I would always us the 4low to avoid burning the clutch.
 
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