supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

vroomzoomboom · August 24, 2020

spent all day yesterday trying to find a belt with no luck, so i tossed in the towel for that one and finished up all my loose ends with the truck and waited for today to come.

today came

so a total of 6 belts later i found the correct one. then there was the sensor. i got my parts place to order what i thought was the correct one in. well, right connector, wrong thread size. then it dawned on me.

those are the ones that sit in the heater hard lines.

i have a few heater hardlines at home!

i felt like a special kinda stupid after that one. even had dono searching his garage for one.....

well, got this done, and that done, then the moment to fire it up......click, click, click........battery look a dump.
off to buy a new battery. just as i am about to fire up up, andy (ahodges) calls. as im talking to him i say "hey stay on the line, you'll be the first to hear it fire up. i turn the key motor turns over a few times then KABOOM.....backfires and lets all my neighours know its time for me to fire this thing up, after i figure out the problem. both andy and i figure i screwed up the firing order (which he also reminds me i am very good at doing that, like every time i have done something to it good). check it out, secondary coil pack order was out. fix it, now motor turns but wont fire. change coil plugs around.
nothing.
change them back, try again.
nothing.
scratch my head.
nothing.
yell
nothing.
beg
nothing.
sit in the truck, turn the motor over, and give it some gas, and......

it roars to life! YAY ME!!!!!! my guess is that i had jammed a ton of Vaseline in the injector o rings i may have clogged them and needed a stronger pulse to clean them out?

problems. its leaking antifreeze at the back of the motor. my guess is using carb spacer bolts was the wrong idea. i was only able to torque them to about 15lbs/ft because they felt they might be striping or bending. at least it runs. i did have major douts about it doing that just because the position of the injectors and also possibly being covered with goober from when i put the intake down. will have to call arp and see if they have anything at all tomorrow.

BUT
IT
RUNS!

ahodges · August 25, 2020

Great job Tim! I knew you'd get it running yesterday! So does this mean you have to take the intake back off again though to fix the antifreeze leak?

vroomzoomboom · August 25, 2020

ahodges said:
So does this mean you have to take the intake back off again though to fix the antifreeze leak?

thanks andy, and yes. it has to come apart. or at least thats what i figure i will have to do. its the only thing i can think of that is leaking. if i unplug the innercooler pump and have the truck running it still has a steady drip. i had it running for a min before i took that video with no coolant in it and the innercooler pump running and didnt see anything dripping as well. it is what it is. i figure it wont be too bad to take apart with the exception if tying to separate the lower intake or valley pan if you want from the mount because of the studs being there.
speaking of the innercooler, don was telling me on his mustang, when he datalogs it, he can see his iat climb at idle, then go down as the car moves. well, i have to say this, the innercooler sure is doing its job. i could feel some heat coming off the rads as it sat and idled. i think i had it running for about 5 mins or so. kinda makes me wounder just how much heat the m112 was tossing into the motor without one. im also thinking having this innercooled now may be a even bigger game changer then i thought.
another thing i will be doing once don gets the tune sorted out for me is dynoing it. there was a speed shop in winnipeg that the owner moved to his house and did dyno work as well. best part is he is not even 10 mins from me so that will happen once all is sorted out.
then again having it idle in the back yard is one thing, driving is another.

410Fortune · August 25, 2020

Yes I can tell you it can take some cranking on these engines to get them to fire and smooth out when I use vaseline on the injectors and O rings (I always do). I came to the same conclusion after having this happen a couple of times, so now when the stepson looks at me with that "it fired up but why is it missing/chugging" look I respond with my "its cool let the vaseline work its way out of there" look and 3 seconds later its running smoothly

I have a 97 F350 turbo diesel, it is my baby, It is THE shop truck around here. When I first got it the EGT (exhaust gas temp) would hit 1200 and keep climbing until I came out of the throttle......makes it very difficult to use a truck like that when you go everywhere towing at 1/3 to half throttle so you do not melt your exhaust. Well here we are about 5-6 years later and that same truck has now been completely upgraded and modified with a HUGE 6.0 front mount intercooler. Now I can mash the fuel feed until my hearts content I watch the EGT's climb up to 1200 degrees and then start to go BACK DOWN............allowing me to keep in it. Forced induction NEEDS intercooling..........you will be so happy, I know I was, my 97 makes 25+ psi of boost and will lock you in your seat through 3rd and 4th gear.....its a 9000# one ton, 4 door truck from the 90's with a steel flatbed sitting on 35's with wing windows.....its friggin awesome, I love boost.

Keep up the good fight GOOD JOB!!!!!
I have the 4.0 OHv, 4.0 SOHC and 5.0 firing orders printed out and hung up in the shop after 25 years I still have to double check..........

CDW6212R · August 25, 2020

410Fortune said:
...
I have the 4.0 OHv, 4.0 SOHC and 5.0 firing orders printed out and hung up in the shop after 25 years I still have to double check..........

Smart idea, and I laughed to read that. What dumb engineer moron decided that firing two cylinders at once, four times a revolution, was a good idea? Most people can figure out a distributor firing order, the wires and cap etc. But a coil pack with the same numbers on both coils, and half of them are not applicable, stupid.

410Fortune · August 25, 2020

yes I wish they never printed numbers on the coil packs

vroomzoomboom · August 25, 2020

410Fortune said:
Yes I can tell you it can take some cranking on these engines to get them to fire and smooth out when I use vaseline on the injectors and O rings (I always do). I came to the same conclusion after having this happen a couple of times, so now when the stepson looks at me with that "it fired up but why is it missing/chugging" look I respond with my "its cool let the vaseline work its way out of there" look and 3 seconds later its running smoothly

i never thought of that until i pressed the peddle. my thought was as soon as gas hit it, it would dissolve as well as you hit another nail on the head because after it cracked to life (you really have to hear this thing cold start in person, it will make you jump, i know the guy 3 doors down hates it, yes 3 doors down) it sounded like it wasnt banging on all 8, but smoothed out after a min or two.

410Fortune said:
I have the 4.0 OHv, 4.0 SOHC and 5.0 firing orders printed out and hung up in the shop after 25 years I still have to double check..........

*grumbles* if you read back in this thread, i can almost bet there has been 3 or 4 times when i have taken this thing apart and put it back together i have screwed that up, but here is why. all 5L's have the coil packs at the front of the motor facing the sky, and coil plug in's facing outward. anyone with a EE m90 kit (andy for example) the coil pack is facing the side of the truck, and plug in's to the ground. so sometimes, well for me at least, my brain cant picture how they go, even with a picture infront of me. thats why i have messed it up in the past. also, for what its worth, i used to have a picture of the firing order saved on my phone lol, and what saved me in the end was grabbing one of my old coil packs that did have the numbers on them to get it right

vroomzoomboom · August 27, 2020

Right now I’m beginning the teardown to ding the leak. One of my nightmares has came true, and I need a little help with this one.

I have oil getting into the intake. The way I have thinking’s is as follows. I have a hose from the oil filler to the inside of the blower which is the intake, and on the other side from the pcv to a small vapour catch can which was empty and from it going to A vacuum line port on the throttlebody

vroomzoomboom · August 27, 2020

I should also add it was probably running for five minutes total

ahodges · August 27, 2020

Is the line from the oil fill before or after the throttle body? Mine is before so that it doesn't see the engine vacuum. My brake booster and PCV valve are connected and run to the intake behind the throttle body but before the supercharger.

vroomzoomboom · August 28, 2020

the way i have it is it goes from the filler to the body of the blower, after the throttle body but before the screws.

i had called the guy that made the innercooler tanks and welded it inside the mount for me. he does a lot of race car stuff. what he said was this.
get a filtered oil catch can, or a catch can with a filter on top. have one line from each valve cover going to it. done. no pcv or anything because thats emissions and most of it is gone on evil now (cats, egr).

410Fortune · August 28, 2020

so then where did the oil come from? If I read that right you do not have any crankcase vents going into the intake?
I remember reading about how intercoolers with oil in them lose alot of their ability to cool the air and it is a no no
then I spent about a year trying to keep the crankcase vent out of my intake, on the 7.3 its just not going to happen...so much blow by there is always a puddle of oil in the turbo and intercooler boots. Every 7.3 Ford Superduty gets oil on the turbo and in the intercooler, add a catch can if you wish, there is still plenty of oil in there...so I just ran with it. Still seems to boost fine and I still watch my EGT's drop, so the FMIC was a HUGE upgrade for a non intercooled 7.3, oil in there or not........

vroomzoomboom · August 28, 2020

really wish i could say. i know the m112 had a ton of oil in the mount when i took it off, but it was on there for 3 or 4 years. the only thing i had going to it was the pcv in the factory location and went between the throttle body and the screws and that was all that was ran. i might have messed up someplace with this one, however, if i get a can (went there today, they were shorted one box on their shipment, guess what was suppose to be in that box) and it is still happening, i have bigger problems on my hands.

4pointslow · August 28, 2020

vroomzoomboom said:
the way i have it is it goes from the filler to the body of the blower, after the throttle body but before the screws.

i had called the guy that made the innercooler tanks and welded it inside the mount for me. he does a lot of race car stuff. what he said was this.
get a filtered oil catch can, or a catch can with a filter on top. have one line from each valve cover going to it. done. no pcv or anything because thats emissions and most of it is gone on evil now (cats, egr).

In these quotes there is confusion for me. If you have a vacuum line going from the filler to the body of the supercharger (behind the throttle body) then you have straight vacuum sucking on your crankcase and that would cause lots of oil to get into your supercharger and intake. You would need a pcv valve between the supercharger and filler.

if you do whats on the bottom then you would have no vacuum going to the catch can or crank case.
Just hoses from the valve covers to catch can but no vacuum source. Is that what you are going to do in the future?

vroomzoomboom · August 29, 2020

so everyone can see how i had it together

filler neck to supercharger body after throttle body, before screws

pcv valve to little catch can with no vent, to throttle body infront of the throttlebody blade. sorry this one kinda sucks but the intake elbow and everything infront of it is off right now.

also this is what the inside of that little catch can looks like

JEGS 52206: Air Oil Separator Universal - JEGS

air oil separator, oil separator, in line air oil separator, in-line air oil separator

www.jegs.com

that thing that looks like a bolt is a little screen

and 4point, i was planning it yes, if it will keep the oil out of the intake system. dont really want to keep spending money if i dont have to but i would rather that then clog up the innercooler

vroomzoomboom · August 30, 2020

had some motivation today. well, i should say its suppose to rain tomorrow and i want to get this thing back together and running before the end of the weekend.

so about those "studs" i used for the intake. yea, seemed like a great idea, but i also knew when it came time to take it apart (and i didnt think this soon either) i knew is was going to be a royal PITA. i was wrong......it was a MAJOR PITA! the two back ones near the firewall alone took a hour each trying to spin them out of the heads, BUT.....

i also learned never underestimate just how well silicone or gasket maker will bond. after getting the studs out (because the intake wouldnt budge with them in) i literally had to rip the supercharger, mount, and pan out in one shot. ya know, for a bunch of alum, that crap is heavy!
so what looks like happen was just like i thought, the gaskets didnt have enough torque on them. they pretty much fell into the lifter valley when i pulled it apart and there was also no residue on the heads, or pan as well as they still looked new. i also think i didnt hook them into the head gasket either. the back passengers side was or looked like it was soaked and that also looked like where it was coming from when it was dripping. haft the studs were also in not so great shape either. going back to the bonding thing, it took a rubber mallet, pry bar, chisel and a hammer to separate the mount from the pan. i went a little too overboard with that stuff because it oozed into the inside of the intake and were even blocking the path of the injectors. the pan was also soaked in oil, and the cooler was still dripping. took a full can of brake clean to both. i know theres still some in the cooler but i hope it will blow out after loosening everything up. so i cleaned everything up and started to put it back together.

there it more on it now since i took the picture. harness is on, thermostat housing, both lines to the cooler, fuel lines, pulley bracket, throttlebody with factory elbow, and adapter. have the upper rad hose, belt, coil packs with wires, dump some coolant into it and i can start it tomorrow and hopefully beat the rain as well as this thing not peeing itself.

oh, also did this instead of the studs.

stainless steal allan bolts. had to be carfull as well becase if you over torque those they snap. ask me how i know. was able to slip them in without removing the fuel rails as well as a have a ball head socket so you can go in on a angle and not up and down. i know theres marks on that head pictured, thats from trying to remove the socket off the head. it can really lock in there and not want to let go for some of them.

410Fortune · August 30, 2020

stainless steel strong enough for the squeeze???
well done, feeding off your motivation for breakfast on a Sunday
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
I friggin love this truck

vroomzoomboom · August 30, 2020

it should. the old one had stainless from day one for both the mount and lower intake. then again the most boost i think it saw was around 9 or 10lbs. the reason why i went stainless is because one, rust. hate when you pop the hood on something and there is a bunch of rusty bolt heads looking at you. as well as two, anyone that has even taken a intake off a sbf knows there is a bit of a butt clinch moment when they get to the front and rear corner bolts because of the water jackets. ive also used them on the timing chain cover and water pump without any problems

4pointslow · August 30, 2020

You had supercharger intake vacuum going straight to your passenger side valve cover, thats why your sucking oil into your engine.

Run that supercharger vacuum port hose to the pcv valve on the other side, then run the throttle body vacuum line (that should be before the throttle plate, read: not manifold vacuum) to the oil fill on the passenger side valve cover.

CDW6212R · August 30, 2020

Isn't the deal with the PCV with engine boost, that there is more crankcase pressure, and it pushes more through the PCV screen into the intake, or a catch can etc? They need a little more airflow through the crankcase, more vacuum pulled than any built up pressure. A PCV that has less restriction is helpful, I've read of suggestions of certain application OEM PCV valves, for a boosted engine.

I figured I would consider the bottom idler pulley space, and try to fit a small vacuum pump there. In any case, the oil baffling is very important to reduce how much oil gets sucked out of the VC's and into a catch can or the intake tract.

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