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supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

Post number 3431 has been selected as best answered.

hi everyone, my name is tim . i live in selkirk, manitoba, canada and as if this date that i am posting this, i am 36 years old.

i bought my sport in jan 05 from a local ford dealer. it had 111,000KM's on it. this is the second sport i have owned. it was sitting on the lot for about 8 months before i came along. i am the third owner (i was able to track down the person that traded it in, and they got it from a friend, who bought it new in 98).

i started to do a few things to it after i first got it, then i found this site, and all hell broke lose! i've never been satisfied with something the everyone else has, so i started to tinker with it even more.

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mods include

interior

installed factory tilt, cruise, overhead console, auto dimming mirror, full length console, with a message center (it didn't have these from factory).

white face with blue flames indigo gauge covers (they light up blue)
blue l.e.d. everything
white l.e.d. interior lights
Kenwood DDX392 Touch Screen Head Unit
alpine 4 channel amp (all four speakers)
boston acoustic front and rear speakers
alpine mono amp (for sub)
2 12 inch jl audio subs
rockford fosgate cap
passenger side one touch window down mod.
custom transfer case shifter
tripple a pillar gauge pod, housing autometer boost, Innovate LC-1 wideband, and oil pressure gauge
12v power inverter with 120v plug in a 2 usb plugs built into the center console

exterior

BMW E46 projectors, mounted into stock housings using clear lens
6000K HID head lights
angel eye "driving" lights, with 8000k h.i.d.'s
clear parking/corner lights
billet grill (powder coated by Turdle)
blacked out ford emblems
custom front steel 95-98 bumper, with 4 inch round tubes welded in for driving lights
shaved radio antenna
shaved roof rack
black euro tall lights
l.e.d. license plate lights
smoked out 3rd break light
lund rear tailgate spoiler/wing (formally from the truck "blackjack" owned by EF member Spas)
hand made roll pan (made from 3 1/2 rear bumpers, with 1/4 inch diamond plate on the top, and it is removable)
aluminum T/A differential griddle/cover (powder coated by Turdle)
Motegi Mr107 20' rims
goodyear wrangler hp p245/50 r20
1 1/4 wheel spacer in the rear, 3/8 in front
and most noticeable, black with blue pearl paint, and blue true fire (ground effects are black with blue pearl as well)

Suspension

2 inch lowering blocks in the rear, reverse TT in the front (2 inch as well)
Explorer Express rear sway bar
4 door leaf springs
rancho rs9000 adjustable rear shocks
03-05 sport trac spindles with drilled and slotted rotors

performance

5L swap
347 stroker
TFS twisted wedge alum heads
comp gold 1.6 rockers
comp cams CCA-35-556-8 nitro cam
heavily modified edelbrock victor jr air gap intake (which serves as a valley pan now)
eaton m122 supercharger (metco 2.70 pulley, and ASP 8 rib 7 1/4 crank pulley) with custom made mount with bell intercooler core
8 rib serpentine belt conversion using pulleys from a 7.3 powerstroke
custom made 3 1/2 inch throttle body elbow
accufab 75mm throttle body
4 inch intake pipe
PMASS MH90 90mm Universal 3000 KG/HR MAF
amsoil cone filter
F.A.S.T. 60lb injectors
edelbrock fuel rails, trick flow specialties fuel pressure regulator with summit racing fuel pressure gauge
walbro 255lph fuel pump
1/2 inch steel braided fuel pressure line from tank to rail using 8AN fittings
torque monster headers
2 1/2 duel pipes with flowpro duel in and out 2 1/2 single muffler
accel extreme 9000 ceramic 45 degree plug wires with boot protectors
4R70W w/2600 stall with J mod
tuff stuff 200a alternator
tuning made possible with sct pro-racer package, and tuned with major help from member [MENTION=102869]Dono[/MENTION] and [MENTION=81804]4pointslow[/MENTION]
flex a lite duel 12 inch electric fans
big 3 upgrade (4 gauge wires)
meziere innercooler water pump
2 froozenboost innercooler rads

Transfer case

4406 manual shift from a 97 F150
modified stock trans cross member to accept 93 mustang 5L polyurethane tans mount
double cardan rear drive shaft

because of all the "fun" i had doing the bodywork, and some other things to my truck, i have nick named it "evil dora" or if you like, just plane "evil"!
and now the thank yous

my buddy gord leiss, who let this thing sit in his garage for 3 months while i did the body work to it. he also gave me a hand with some of the prep work, and painted it for me

kevin willson for doing the true fire http://affordableairbrushing.ca/

Joe Bukoski for letting me do the 5L/4406 swap in his garage

now people from this site, weather they knew it or not, they helped

BIG THANKS to tara a.k.a. explorersport77 for pictures of her truck. wouldn't been able to build the roll pan with out them!

ExplorerSport77's X "Hotness"

jon a.k.a. Turdle for selling me some real swanky rear shackles, as well as powder coating the diff cover and sending them up to canada. as well as much needed info on v8, and 4406 swaps as well as doing the grill and showing me how its done.

don aka dono for the help with the tuning, and wideband, as well as the supercharger

andy aka ahodges for some parts, and any help i needed for all the go faster goodies

5.0 swap - w/ 4406

jad2411 for finding me a link for my hidden antenna

ryan a.k.a. MustangP51 for doing his write up on making l.e.d.'s for interior lights, and how to make projectors

P51's HID Headlight (Projector) and Fog Conversion (PICS)

and N3ELZ cardomain page for L.E.D. switch and cruise pod mods

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296394/2002-ford-ranger-regular-cab/page-6
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296394/2002-ford-ranger-regular-cab/page-12
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296394/2002-ford-ranger-regular-cab/page-23

bob a.k.a. rwenzing for showing me speedhut's sit for the gauges

Gauges, Custom Gauges, Tachometers, Speedometers, Shift Light, Pod

Buzz4x4 for his write up on blacking out ford emblems

How to Make Your Own Custom Ford Emblems

the late aldive for his write up on one touch down passengers window mod

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141027&highlight=touch+passengers+window+mod

BIG COUNTRY, for his write up on how to install a auto dimming mirror

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=84968

BIG COUNTRY, 98formulaLS1, and Ryon40 for there write ups on how to install a message center

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225017&highlight=BIG+COUNTRY
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80670&highlight=message+center
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245085&highlight=Ryon40

MountaineerGreen for his 4406 swap write up and "Custom" Driveshaft for a 4406 and 4" Superlift on the Cheap " (even tho its lowered

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166726&highlight=awd+4x4+swap
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185232

Simon, aka blueka for his "pickle" thread, and help anytime i picked the phone up the phone on the 5L swap

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271813

Jon, aka 4pointslow for any MAJOR technical advice i have needed

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219092

i wish i could find who did the write up on the overhead console install, but here is the link

http://www.explorer4x4.com/overhead.htm

Russ aka NICE59FORDF100 for his help on the wiring, and what to watch out for electronically.

hopefully one day, i will be able to help people on here just as much as the people that i have mentioned above!

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plus you know you have done something right when.....

your truck (as well as corkey) wins truck of the month

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=296023

is the feature truck on the fun hump day radio show (starts roughly around the 30 min mark)

http://explorerforum.podbean.com/2011/03/23/19-vroom-zoomboom/

and you drive 26 hours ONE WAY to the carlisle all ford nationals in june 2010 and 2011, and grab second place in the s.u.v. all category!

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then in 2014 you go back to the same show you have been to 5 years in a row (nothing by most, but its one hell of a long drive) and take first!

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Lol....I seem to remember I tried the 'throw money at it till it works'.
i also seem to remember i have your old motor in evil.....i wonder if your luck is rubbing off on me now......

No he sold a different truck not his soul crushing, wallet emptying consume all the time available so you never have a life again sport

We need this thing to run!!
fixed it for you jamie.

Thread too long to sell now.

It's just being evil. Not like the TV show
the problem with a long thread is that you can look back and see what kind of a pita it has been...

while i was driving today to look at another truck to flip i started to think if i ever checked over the wires coming out of the ecu going to the plug, then from the plug to the coil driver. i will have to look at that tomorrow
 






well what feels like eternity plus a day, i was able to get my hands on my friends smoke tester. i tried making one using a soldiering iron, a jar and a suction pump, but it didnt make enough smoke. anyhow, hooked everything up to the truck, and ran it into the line used for the brake booster. could see a ton of smoke but couldnt narrow it down. or i should say had a funning feeling i knew where it was coming but didnt want to believe it, so i stopped the smoke, but continued to pump air into the motor and shot some soapy water in one spot in particular. well, i got my answer.

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that there is pretty much all of bank 2 leaking from the intake gasket. so now i have to figure how and why. i've been using fel-pro MS90361 set. i have a different set laying around, they are more of a paper gasket and not like the crush metallic fel-pro ones. also it was torqued to 25-27 ft/lbs. i think the first problem is the washers started to bend. i would love to change to a different bolt (i do not reuse them if i have to take the intake off, i toss them buy new ones, and no they are not arp or anything fancy like that) but i have torque them down with the fuel rail on. i am however going to see if i can take the rail off to tighten them now. theres not a lot of room to work with here.
the intake is already off as well as the mount, block is cleaned, same with the mount and intake. hopefully tomorrow sometime after work i can once again put it back together.
 






That's good progress there
 






Try to check the intake surfaces with a good straight edge to be sure it's all true.

I know RTV has become something people avoid using with intake gaskets, but that used to be the primary sealing agent for all intakes and gaskets available. If the RTV can be used judiciously(not too much), it is an excellent sealant for all imperfections, and the movement of the parts when assembled. I haven't installed an intake in over 20 years, but I never did it once without a full covering of RTV.
 






Try to check the intake surfaces with a good straight edge to be sure it's all true.

I know RTV has become something people avoid using with intake gaskets, but that used to be the primary sealing agent for all intakes and gaskets available. If the RTV can be used judiciously(not too much), it is an excellent sealant for all imperfections, and the movement of the parts when assembled. I haven't installed an intake in over 20 years, but I never did it once without a full covering of RTV.
yea.....not my first rodeo.
 






Maybe try a gasket that’s not the felpro and sandwich it with rtv, meaning the felpro lower intake is the soft carbon type maybe your intake needs a traditional paper/rubber style? U dunno

That custom intake must not be perfectly flat! At least you are finding issues! Battle on
Some of these trucks just fight us the whole way but we still win the war
 






Maybe try a gasket that’s not the felpro and sandwich it with rtv, meaning the felpro lower intake is the soft carbon type maybe your intake needs a traditional paper/rubber style? U dunno

That custom intake must not be perfectly flat! At least you are finding issues! Battle on
Some of these trucks just fight us the whole way but we still win the war
that was one of my first thoughts. i am going to seal the water ports with rtv, but i am going to (or in the process) of using a spray on adhesive. it will be pure hell to clean off if i have to take it apart again however. the lower part i would like to say is flat, but i know the bottom of the mount is not. it did get warped on one of the back corners when it was welded together.
i put the lower on the motor and did find it wants to shift to one side or another when its laying dry. i am going to have to watch that when it goes back together. i am also going to use a different intake gasket this time.

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thats the gasket number. where it came from or when i have no idea lol. it may have come with don's truck and parts when i bought it from him. this one is a paper style gasket, not like the fel pro. i am also using this,

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you DONT want to get this on your fingers or skin. might be up there with herculiner (for those that dont know do a search lol). you can probably lift wrenches with your finger tips if you get it on them. not sure if i can do this or not but i did. i used that stuff and put a light coat of rtv around the water passages. that gasket is as we speak on the lower intake that i lightly bolted to the motor for it to set up over night. i am still trying to decide if i want to use the alan head bolts, or regular bolts this time as well. the problem with regular bolts is the fuel rails have to come off to put them in. the problem with that is, i use them to put the blower and mount on the motor (they act as handles, and work quite well lol). then bolting them back on while on the motor isnt zero fun to. i will have that to keep me awake tonight so i can decide tomorrow i guess.
 






That is some strong stuff I've used it
Best part is it will never fully dry
I'm excited for burnouts :)
 






I’m not sure the spray sealant will fill the gap? I would think you need a thicker layer of rtv to fill a gap. the gasket won’t touch the block and the intake because they are not flat.. the gasket adhesive is fantastic for keeping the gaskets in place and sealed up but not the greatest for filling imperfections in the metal or in your case a large gap! I would still use some permatex
 






That spray a gasket is the same as the old one called Spray Tack, I've used it many times for water pump gaskets and the thermostat gasket. It is great for holding gaskets, and making the install easier(less messy), but it is sticky.

The RTV is the best for any imperfections to fill, small and big gaps, but it has to be evenly put on and gently crushed into place, then left to set. You can use RTV and delay the final torquing by just snugging the bolts to maintain more thickness of the RTV. Then tighten it up after a few hours, the trick is to get the wet RTV to touch all of the sealing surfaces first. That gives it more sealing material in the gap, like doing the intake end rails.
 






so here is the monthly update.

i was able to squeeze regular bolts in to tighten the intake down and not the Allen headed bolts. the problem i was having with them was i had to use a ball head socket key to tighten them, and what would happen was because most of them had to be tighten on a angle, the socket would start to skip then strip the head and not fully torqueing down. i grown a socket down and can just fit it between the rail and the bolt. next looking at the adaptors for the injectors i didnt really trust them. they looked really cheep. i ordered a holley ev6 harness. it came today. i had also looked into where james left off in trying to make it run (well, i should say he did have it running). i noticed something funny, when you set your ignition up in these holley systems, you need to tell the ecm where the crank sensor is to the reluctor wheel. on mine (and more then likely all explorers) it will be on the 5th tooth. he had is set at the 10th tooth. it would run, but horrible. i set it to the 5th one. it wont run, but it wants to real bad when you try starting it, so i am going to leave it there for now. the last of the big news is........i broke down and hired a remote tuner. truthfully i am not a big fan of remote tuning but i trust no shop anywhere near me to take it to. on friday, marty ochs from mo's speed shop in dallas, ga is going to be handling the tuning and hopefully get evil running so i can at least take it out on one cruise night before it snows.
 






Marty and Mo's has a great reputation. I dodn't know they are a holley shop also. Thats great news!
 






Keep at it Tim; you'll get it!
 






Keep at it Tim; you'll get it!
and if i dont, lucky for me that selkirk has a mental hospital, so seeking residency shouldnt be a problem *twitch twitch*
 






well today tuning started......and within 10 mins it ended. map not reading.


i hate this thing.
 






Isn’t this a good thing? Now you know where to look! Map wiring from Holley to your aftermarket map sensor
 






That would have to be a holley ecu issue, correct?
 






Isn’t this a good thing? Now you know where to look! Map wiring from Holley to your aftermarket map sensor
That would have to be a holley ecu issue, correct?

i have to look at the connector going into the sensor. i know that was one of the first ones i did and probably didnt do it well. when i was on the phone with them, i wiggled the end a couple of times and it would read, then go dead. read then go dead. the fun part will be trying to pull that connector out so i can look at it. its buried at the back of the motor, under the supercharger.
 



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Any way to use the internal map just to get it running?
 






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