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supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

Oh man I wish I had a crusher. I’ve got about 10 that need to be smashed

Glad you found the issue! Could have been so much worse.
 



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Oops. Lol. Funny how when we are tired or don't have the right stuff handy the issue always seems to come back to haunt us. Hopefully you can get a sensor quick. Summer so so far short.
 






evil keeps pushing pushing it with the patience......

saturday night when i got home (mom turned 82 so we had a birthday party for her) i mounted the new fan, and wired everything up. yesterday i chased yet another leaking innercooler hose. i also let it idle with the hood closed for 15 min watching the temp. water temp was no higher then 185. IAT was around 145. that sensor is going to be moved to the blower from now on. i popped the hood. i was able to place my hand on the mount where the cooler is in. also the blower itself i was able to place my hand on (was a little warmer). sensor is definitely heat soaked.
wheer dono and i live in the summer winnipeg has sunday cruise night when all the hotrods, muscle cars, sport cars, special interest vehicles, you name it flood main and portage street. havent really been able to go out in 2 plus years. that and its canada day weekend i wanted to go! met up with a few friends i havent seen for a while and they wanted to see all the new stuff. i go to pop the hood and..........hood cable breaks.....
if it isnt one thing or another. anyone have a link to a thread showing you how to open the hood with no cable?
today called flex a lite and explained my temperature probe problem. long story short, the first twit hung up on me when i asked to speak with a supervisor (yea, karen move, i know). i called back, this time the person i talked to was more human. she is sending a complete controller kit out to me, no charge. with the exception of the first person, in the past i have always had great customer service with that company.
 






anyone have a link to a thread showing you how to open the hood with no cable?
 







thanks don, but i found another way....

449407301_865441385616615_4160291830404598313_n.jpg


everyone in those threads have or had stock grills. my saving grace was i dont have that filler panel between the grill and the rad support.
also slowly your black truck is being put back on the road one part at a time lol. when i got the hood open the cable was not broken at the latch, or the handle. must have stretched over time from me opening it a bazillion times.
 






soooooo imma gonna cheat a bit.......

449356111_783584413762452_1177990027713995403_n.jpg


i know what most of you are going to say or think. thats not post supercharger, it wont read correctly. well, where it sat before, it was getting major heat soak (like reading 145F and i was able to put my hand on the manifold so it wasnt reading correctly either. i left the other sensor in place, and bought a new one. was going to put it where the egr is supposed to go, but the spare block of plate i have (and lucky for me was made it wrong, it had a hole in the center that i just had to tap) wouldnt fit flush. the next spot i picked was a vacuum port that i blocked off because i didnt need it. threaded are ready to go even! just had to extend the harness, which was zero fun. laying over the blower and pretty much hugging it trying to crimp wires. just glad nobody saw me doing it. will try it and see what it does sometime this week if the rain stops.
 






I would say that it would be fine But if you start experiencing some knocking under load then you know Your temperature reading is off

what you're doing is kind of cheating lol

I love the brass
 






Yea, I'm not liking it either. It might be better than reading the recirculting air temperature though (Im pretty sure the original sensor location reads the recirculating air, instead of the cooled air?). Either one, is less than ideal.

Sucks, there's no room for anything.
 






sort of a win, sort of a fail. went for drive. the temp will climb to a point and stay (i would say 125-130ish). if your stopped for some time it will climb more, but not fast. when you start to move, it will drop slowly. its also not really hot outside at the moment either. the temp changes are not a drastic as before. when it was at the back of the lower intake, you could watch it climb pretty quickly, and fall as you start to move but stay very high, now it will climb slowly, and fall slowly, but not stay extremely hot.
i also got to see what it would run like without the TPS, or IAC plugged in. was like celebrating canada day a few days late.
 






What temp are you shooting for? I mean what is ideal? 125-135 seems pretty dang cool to me considering what’s going on under the hood of a
Black explorer with a big v8 and supercharger lol lol

I ask because I do not know!
 






What temp are you shooting for? I mean what is ideal? 125-135 seems pretty dang cool to me considering what’s going on under the hood of a
Black explorer with a big v8 and supercharger lol lol

I ask because I do not know!
huh....lol. well when you put it that way, lower i guess. dono had said if his mustang sits idling it will climb to 150, and after a WOT pull, will be around 134. to me that sounds where i should be, but also at the same time, mustang vs explorer. kenny bell vs eaton. i wish i knew what shelbys, or cobras had for temps so i have something to compare to. i know when it was being tuned both marty and jeff said i need to figure out why the temps were high.
 






Those intake temps are sure high.
I hope I'm wrong, as I'm jast a backyard hack.

What are the odds of being able to move that sensor to the air filter in a temporary hack kind of way?
Is the sensor the wrong one, with the voltage curve being wrong?

125 degree's cruising cant be right. Your only reading air from your air filter intake area where you have it now. Is it possible to have that much heat soak? That little wire should be reading proper air temp when your driving on the highway. There is definitely enough air flow thru the intake tube when your cruising.
 






Those intake temps are sure high.
I hope I'm wrong, as I'm jast a backyard hack.

What are the odds of being able to move that sensor to the air filter in a temporary hack kind of way?
Is the sensor the wrong one, with the voltage curve being wrong?

125 degree's cruising cant be right. Your only reading air from your air filter intake area where you have it now. Is it possible to have that much heat soak? That little wire should be reading proper air temp when your driving on the highway. There is definitely enough air flow thru the intake tube when your cruising.
moving it closer to the filter starts becoming the point of no return. i would be drilling and tapping spots that cant easily be resealed if they dont work. i am sure its getting some heat soak from being screwed into the blower case, but i would also have to think not as bad because the hood now lets are out so there is some circulation going on. i will have to drive it some more and with more stop and go traffic to see what the outcome will be. that drive was only about a 15 min drive with mixed highway and town driving as well. that and those temps had to been there before, i just didtn see them like i can now.
 






i am now going to rule that one out. with the cowl hood, and the location of that sensor, any hot air can escape now, or so i think at least.

Going back a bit...

The L88 style hoods are meant to bring cold air into a sealed intake by way of the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. When left unsealed I'm sure some hot air can escape while the vehicle is sitting still, but when driving it should be bringing fresh air into the engine compartment. Trouble is your intake is nowhere near the opening of the scoop.:dunno:
 






I saw the picture you posted of your air filter in your engine compartment and see you don't have a cold air intake setup.
This is one reason your air intake temps are high.
Maybe you can move the air filter closer to the fender by extending the tube and then cut a hole in the fender to allow fresh air in.
I made a somewhat functional cold air set up by cutting up a plastic container and the inner fender area where my battery used to be.
 






I saw the picture you posted of your air filter in your engine compartment and see you don't have a cold air intake setup.
This is one reason your air intake temps are high.
Maybe you can move the air filter closer to the fender by extending the tube and then cut a hole in the fender to allow fresh air in.
I made a somewhat functional cold air set up by cutting up a plastic container and the inner fender area where my battery used to be.
Like this

received_3010168395780090.jpeg
 






Going back a bit...

The L88 style hoods are meant to bring cold air into a sealed intake by way of the high pressure area at the base of the windshield. When left unsealed I'm sure some hot air can escape while the vehicle is sitting still, but when driving it should be bringing fresh air into the engine compartment. Trouble is your intake is nowhere near the opening of the scoop.:dunno:

my thought was it would be sucking the air out from under the hood while driving, not letting it in. i could be wrong however.

I saw the picture you posted of your air filter in your engine compartment and see you don't have a cold air intake setup.
This is one reason your air intake temps are high.
Maybe you can move the air filter closer to the fender by extending the tube and then cut a hole in the fender to allow fresh air in.
I made a somewhat functional cold air set up by cutting up a plastic container and the inner fender area where my battery used to be.

i have no argument with you on this one. i was hoping that because it not being near the rad, and off to the side i would be ok. i am going to have to do a pile of relocation if i want to do it on the drivers side. fuel pressure regulator, HID, fan controller, and puke box all live on that side. doesnt mean its not do able, just means a whole lotta figuring out.


i am guessing that comes out of the air box? i wanted to do something like that, but couldnt figure out how to get a air filter in-between the fender and fender apron.

its going to be hot this weekend, well hot for us. i do have stuff to finish up which will decrees the stress level. will have to take it for a ride and really see what happens.

thanks for the input guys.
 






my thought was it would be sucking the air out from under the hood while driving, not letting it in. i could be wrong however.

There is a high pressure area at the base of the windshield where the oncoming air is being slowed by the windsheild that is how the L88s hoods work as intakes on the Chebys.

I used the cowl vent on my 1960 Dodge in the same manner that NASCARs did to feed cold air to the carbs. This air pan seals to the insulation under the hood and only pulls air from the cowl. It made a huge difference with hot weather drivability.

cowl_60_dart.jpg


L-88_Hood_1.jpg

L88 Corvette hood
 






my thought was it would be sucking the air out from under the hood while driving, not letting it in. i could be wrong however.



i have no argument with you on this one. i was hoping that because it not being near the rad, and off to the side i would be ok. i am going to have to do a pile of relocation if i want to do it on the drivers side. fuel pressure regulator, HID, fan controller, and puke box all live on that side. doesnt mean its not do able, just means a whole lotta figuring out.



i am guessing that comes out of the air box? i wanted to do something like that, but couldnt figure out how to get a air filter in-between the fender and fender apron.

its going to be hot this weekend, well hot for us. i do have stuff to finish up which will decrees the stress level. will have to take it for a ride and really see what happens.

thanks for the input guys.
Pictures
Yep It goes right through the hole in the fender Apron
Then it goes into the air box
So when The hood is closed Only air from inside the fender Is used
Dropped my intake temperature significantly and my air filters take twice as long to get dirty

received_935173554546906_kindlephoto-76090378.jpg


received_1210387399739593 (2024-04-01T19_53_52.000)_kindlephoto-80639810.jpg
 



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There is a high pressure area at the base of the windshield where the oncoming air is being slowed by the windsheild that is how the L88s hoods work as intakes on the Chebys.

I used the cowl vent on my 1960 Dodge in the same manner that NASCARs did to feed cold air to the carbs. This air pan seals to the insulation under the hood and only pulls air from the cowl. It made a huge difference with hot weather drivability.

View attachment 454123

View attachment 454124
L88 Corvette hood
Pictures
Yep It goes right through the hole in the fender Apron
Then it goes into the air box
So when The hood is closed Only air from inside the fender Is used
Dropped my intake temperature significantly and my air filters take twice as long to get dirty

View attachment 454125

View attachment 454126

well then. looks like with this info i am going to be trying to build some type of air box. it also looks like i just spent a ton of money on a hood i dont need........
 






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