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Supercharger install 9+lb boost! Full build

I will be adding safeguard next year and air on the side of caution with the tune

I am gonna use these spark plugs as suggested by @4pointslow

NGK 4177
TR6
Gapped at .030

And a 180 degree t stat any suggestions on a brand guys?
 



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I would say there are 3-4 good brands, Ford of course. I still like the Motorad, by Murray now, the Failsafe type I like for the design to lock them open if they get too hot. I have tripped two of those in my SOHC, and I fixed the one(unlocked the tiny tangs which lock the unit open).

You want a top brand that is likely to work at the intended temp, and not bind up over time. They are fragile, but any cheap brand may be made less precisely, and bind up or stick etc.
 






Is a Safeguard required? No. Does a Safeguard provide a substantial safety factor to a high compression and/or forced induction build? Absolutely. Does a Safeguard allow one to run a more aggressive tune? Absolutely. Is a Safegaurd for everyone? No.

Also, I had my Mustang professionally tuned on a dyno so I am not sure what your point is on this matter. As I stated, the 302 has an issue running high levels of boost in that it needs more head studs to keep the heads from lifting. Roots and twin screw blowers make full boost from idle to redline. They are harder to tune than centrifugal blowers and turbos for this reason. This makes them very touchy if ANYTHING goes amiss to cause detonation. I got good at changing head gaskets for this reason and I wanted to run a fairly aggressive tune. The tuner did exactly what I asked him to do. After installing the Safeguard I never changed another head gasket while running the same boost level and tune.

There are a lot of things that can cause detonation. The pump goes out in the water/alcohol injection system. You get a tank of bad gas. A sensor gets wonky. The ECUs in older vehicles are just not that capable/fast and many don't even have the capability to monitor a knock sensor. There is a reason that people doing serious builds of older vehicles ditch the OEM computer. I had thousands upon thousands of dollars wrapped up in my build. I would bet the OP of this thread does too and will be spending more in the future. A $600 piece of gear that allows the most performance from a forced induction engine while providing a high degree of protection against a catastrophic engine failure is a bargain, IMO. It allows one to run higher HP levels which is the whole point of modding for more power.
You lost me at "most ditch the OEM computer". That's BS. I don't see the need to push my builds as hard as you have, enjoy, bye bye now.
 






I would say there are 3-4 good brands, Ford of course. I still like the Motorad, by Murray now, the Failsafe type I like for the design to lock them open if they get too hot. I have tripped two of those in my SOHC, and I fixed the one(unlocked the tiny tangs which lock the unit open).

You want a top brand that is likely to work at the intended temp, and not bind up over time. They are fragile, but any cheap brand may be made less precisely, and bind up or stick etc.
I can't find a Motorcraft 180
Still looking tho
Motorad made in Germany I think
great choice
 






Ford made almost no lower temp thermostats, I doubt there is one for the SOHC. I've used Robert Shaw many times also, that's the other top brand I didn't think of yesterday.
 






I was doing some thermostat research last year.
These are aproximately 167 degree's so they are not supposed to cause check engine lights for being too cold.
There are also 180 degree ones and I think I used one around 174 degrees also if I recall correctly.
Here are my rough draft notes on the 167 degree ones.

Thermostats Colder for 4.0 sohc

Stant 13496
(best one?)
Temp 167
Has Jiggle valve

Motorad 248-160JV
Or
248160JV
Temp 160 or 167?

Gates 33556
Temp 160 or 167?
Has jiggle valve?

Listed for 2005-2009 Mustang
Mercedes Benz 1998-1999 S320,1997 C280
Jaquar 1997 Vanden Plas and XJ6,XJR
VW Corado 1992-1993
1989 Volvo 760,780
Peugeot 505 1989
 






Oh found my other notes.

Thermostat 180 Degree

Motorad 7248-180

Failsafe vesion

and

Thermostat 174 degree

Stant 13648
174f / 79c
 






I have been using the 180 degree on my daily drivers as I feel 195 is way to high for an old vehicle where leaks can happen easier.
The lower the temp the lower the pressure.

The 174 I have run in my race truck for years but tried to go with 167 degree. I believe the thermostat I received from ebay was boxed wrong as it seems to run higher than the 174 degree one I had in there. There is some shady stuff going on with ebay sellers sometimes.
People swap boxes to make you think you are getting a certain brand etc, but them you end up getting crap.
 






Thanks John for reminding me that the higher temp raises pressure some. I've got a leak in my last 98 302, and haven't gotten to replacing the coolant hoses and thermostat yet. I need to R&R the thermostat, if it's a 195 I can help the leak by putting in a 180.

I have used a 160 for a couple of years, back in the 2005 range. It worked fine for me and our Winters when we see single digits rarely. But the online myths about PCM closed loop temps, made me buy 180* units since then. I think a 180 is a no brainer, no harm and no adjustments needed choice. I''d like to think that a 160* unit could gain something with a little tune adjustment, but I'm sure it would be very minor, maybe un-measurable unless it's a high boost or high compression, stressed application.
 






I couldn't find Window washer fluid here with much meth in it
So I got this for now
Ill be mixing 60/40
IMG_20210310_142908.jpg
IMG_20210310_143021.jpg
 






What's it smell like? I hope that saves some money, everything is going higher and that's the way to do it. I bought some Xylene once and didn't notice difference in the high compression engine I had. That was 34 years ago, I was younger(and ****** then).
 












Does it mix easily with water, or what mixture are you using for the injection under boost?
 






Does it mix easily with water, or what mixture are you using for the injection under boost?
I haven't mixed it
60% water
40% Meth
By volume is how I'm gonna mix
 












Been lurking this thread for quite a while and some interesting stuff.

If you have a local speed shop that sells VP Racing Fuels, then you can probably buy M1 from them. When I did meth injection on my truck, I usually mix 5 gallons of VP Racing M1 with 5 gallons of distilled water. VP Fuels was also easier to obtain compared to when I was using windshield washer fluid and adding the yellow HEET bottles to up the methanol content.
 






Been lurking this thread for quite a while and some interesting stuff.

If you have a local speed shop that sells VP Racing Fuels, then you can probably buy M1 from them. When I did meth injection on my truck, I usually mix 5 gallons of VP Racing M1 with 5 gallons of distilled water. VP Fuels was also easier to obtain compared to when I was using windshield washer fluid and adding the yellow HEET bottles to up the methanol content.
Thanks great idea
Edit
Not sure if this is a good thing or not
Screenshot_20210310-231334_kindlephoto-66308638.png
 












More toys! Go Man Go. Good Luck! I went to the drag racing track for methanol.

Remember to let your tuner know of the lower thermostat.

I actually just changed pulley's back down for 6.5lbs of boost here in Denver area (8lbs+ at sea level)......................................She was really sucking the gas down at a bit over 8lbs, 10mpg since it was in boost more often. It was harder to keep it out of boost and get some mileage. That same pulley would get me 10lbs a sea level. I am daily driving it so not willing to pay at the pump nor do I want to push it that hard.
 



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Remember to let your tuner know of the lower thermostat
Dam that's the one thing I forgot
Ill tell him on the next email

its a 180' motorad
Looks nice
Tomorrow I have to buy the steel and bolts spacers ECT
for the extra idler pulley
got the idea from @4pointslow

DSC05756.JPG


DSC05753.JPG


DSC05751.JPG
 






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