Suspension and Drivetrain woes 2003 XLT

[mbrando1994]

Hi all,

I recently took my 03' XLT Explorer AWD to a CJ Tires location. This location has always been good to me and I never found fault with anything they've done until today.

Here's the run down of what they said is wrong:

Both front wheel bearings bad
Both sway bar end links bad
ply in 'steering knuckle'
possible bad bearing where the front drive shaft connects to the transfer case
loose heat shield (somewhere not sure where)
Eaten up rotors (front)
slipped boot on upper ball joint

So both of the front wheel bearings were replaced about 1.5-2 years ago. How is it possible they're both shot already? What could cause this?

Both sway bar end links were replaced by the same shop and taken apart once or twice by myself to do repairs (they seemed pretty solid at the time maybe a year old)

The shop called this part the steering knuckle but I know it as the intermediate steering shaft. I believe this is the part if not the actual steering column he pointed out. When you grab it from the wheel well, you can slightly wiggle it side to side, there is no ply in the actual radial motion of steering, just able to wiggle it around maybe a millimeter or two. Is this serious enough to warrant replacement? I've never had any issues ever with loose steering, sometimes too tight steering if anything.

I complained about a scraping noise and I agree now that it is a heat shield, I'm assuming on one of the catalytic converters. However, there feels like there's lag directly below drivers seat when pressing on gas sometimes. It's a sharp thud and you can feel it in the chassis. I'm guessing this could be the bearing between the shaft and xfer case. Thoughts on this?

The rotors are another confusing one, I replaced both front rotors and pads with quality parts last year and am very easy on my braking. I challenge myself to avoid braking hard as much as possible so I don't know how these parts are wearing so quickly!

The slipped boot on the upper ball joint is my doing, but I never got around to fixing it from before winter. I agree that it should be replaced but what are your thoughts on it?

I've invested a lot into this car and I know a lot would give up at this point. I do really love the car and want to keep it. It's given me many problems but I'm also learning how to resolve them along the way. Let me know your thoughts and advice on this one. Some things just don't sound right but are definitely possible. Thanks in advance!

 

[drdoom]

Not speaking as an authority here, but I will open the dialogue with a couple opinions. The wheel bearing market is flooded with inferior Chinese product. That is one possibility, other is improper installation torque. Sway bar end links also suffer from over or under tightening. The rotors I'm not sure what to say other than calipers or pins sticking. I also find it unusual they did not last longer.

 

[drdoom]

The upper ball joint if you left it open all winter, I would replace that with a greasable unit. I've never worked on a steering shaft, but I believe repair kits are available. Only way I would repair it is if it had a loose connection or bad u-joint.

 

[mbrando1994]

The ball joint is a greasable fully serviceable unit. It came with the control arm and bushings as a unit. I accidently filled it with too much grease and it popped open after a few drives.

Like I said I didn't fully inspect the steering shaft but it can be moved a bit side to side, but when rotating it as to mimick steering, there is no observable play in the steering. Not sure if its the intermediate shaft or something in the main shaft going up to the wheel.

As for the bearings, yes I do know this and find it a shame that the shop probably used these types. I remember being charged around something over 250 a side for them. That is probably on the low side isn't it? CJ Tires quoted me no more than $700 for both sides and parts. Is that a reasonable offer or should I get more opinions?

 

[mbrando1994]

How do I check for a caliper sticking? I do notice that when I have to do a hard brake such as at a quick stop light, the brakes seem to lock up (or maybe the drivetrain) and the truck refuses to move for a few seconds, it will not idle, and when it finally moves it thuds and lunges forwards. This is most of the reason I avoid hard braking.

 

[LMHmedchem]

How do I check for a caliper sticking? I do notice that when I have to do a hard brake such as at a quick stop light, the brakes seem to lock up (or maybe the drivetrain) and the truck refuses to move for a few seconds, it will not idle, and when it finally moves it thuds and lunges forwards. This is most of the reason I avoid hard braking.

What you describe here should not be happening.You should get a nice smooth stop, even when you have to stand on the brakes.

Did you grease the caliper slide pins when you last did your brakes? If you take the caliper off, you should be able to slide the caliper mounting bracket freely back and forth on the slide pins. If the boots on the slide pins are ripped, then dust will have got in there and jammed things up. It only cost a few dollars to do replacement boot kits on the caliper slides so I would just pull them apart, clean the pins with brake cleaner and steel wool, and re-grease them. Put the new boots on and things should be nice and smooth. Have someone operate the brake while you watch, you should see the caliper engage to press on the pads and then release. If it doesn't seem to release, then there is an issue. If one side is sticking, the truck can pull a bit when you brake.

If the slide pins are very rusted you may just want to replace them. they aren't expensive. The rear slide pins have the hex nut on one end and I fine these to round off eventually so I think it's better to replace them every so often anyway. The boot kits go less than $5, so it's a cheep fix to try.

I suppose you could have an ABS issue that would cause wear, but I would suspect sticky slides unless you know you have heavily greased them recently.

I would do the wheel bearings yourself. That way you can use top shelf OE parts and still spend allot less on the job. I'm not sure I would worry all that much about the steering issue unless you are feeling allot of play in the wheel.

LMHmedchem

 

[TechGuru]

Front wheel bearings are $166 each.

What brake pads did you install? I believe OEM is organic which are easy on the rotors unlike semi-metallic which will stop better but eat the rotors some.

 

[mbrando1994]

What you describe here should not be happening.You should get a nice smooth stop, even when you have to stand on the brakes.

Did you grease the caliper slide pins when you last did your brakes? If you take the caliper off, you should be able to slide the caliper mounting bracket freely back and forth on the slide pins. If the boots on the slide pins are ripped, then dust will have got in there and jammed things up. It only cost a few dollars to do replacement boot kits on the caliper slides so I would just pull them apart, clean the pins with brake cleaner and steel wool, and re-grease them. Put the new boots on and things should be nice and smooth. Have someone operate the brake while you watch, you should see the caliper engage to press on the pads and then release. If it doesn't seem to release, then there is an issue. If one side is sticking, the truck can pull a bit when you brake.

If the slide pins are very rusted you may just want to replace them. they aren't expensive. The rear slide pins have the hex nut on one end and I fine these to round off eventually so I think it's better to replace them every so often anyway. The boot kits go less than $5, so it's a cheep fix to try.

I suppose you could have an ABS issue that would cause wear, but I would suspect sticky slides unless you know you have heavily greased them recently.

I would do the wheel bearings yourself. That way you can use top shelf OE parts and still spend allot less on the job. I'm not sure I would worry all that much about the steering issue unless you are feeling allot of play in the wheel.

LMHmedchem

Thanks a bunch! When I did the pads and rotors I also did the replacement boot kit as well as a hardware kit for the pads. I used silicone grease in a squeeze tube for the slide pins. Was that the wrong lubricant? It could be the rear brakes as I never looked at those. I know how to do wheel bearings I just never attempted it without air tools. How possible is it without them? I know there's a post about this but is the hub67 model ok for my 2003 awd xlt? Or should I spend the extra money and get the hub29 model?

 

[mbrando1994]

Front wheel bearings are $166 each.

What brake pads did you install? I believe OEM is organic which are easy on the rotors unlike semi-metallic which will stop better but eat the rotors some.

Honestly I can't remember. It was my first brake job and wasn't as knowledgeable as I am now.

 

[mbrando1994]

What you describe here should not be happening.You should get a nice smooth stop, even when you have to stand on the brakes.

Did you grease the caliper slide pins when you last did your brakes? If you take the caliper off, you should be able to slide the caliper mounting bracket freely back and forth on the slide pins. If the boots on the slide pins are ripped, then dust will have got in there and jammed things up. It only cost a few dollars to do replacement boot kits on the caliper slides so I would just pull them apart, clean the pins with brake cleaner and steel wool, and re-grease them. Put the new boots on and things should be nice and smooth. Have someone operate the brake while you watch, you should see the caliper engage to press on the pads and then release. If it doesn't seem to release, then there is an issue. If one side is sticking, the truck can pull a bit when you brake.

If the slide pins are very rusted you may just want to replace them. they aren't expensive. The rear slide pins have the hex nut on one end and I fine these to round off eventually so I think it's better to replace them every so often anyway. The boot kits go less than $5, so it's a cheep fix to try.

I suppose you could have an ABS issue that would cause wear, but I would suspect sticky slides unless you know you have heavily greased them recently.

I would do the wheel bearings yourself. That way you can use top shelf OE parts and still spend allot less on the job. I'm not sure I would worry all that much about the steering issue unless you are feeling allot of play in the wheel.

LMHmedchem

What type of abs issue would I be looking for?

 

[TechGuru]

I know how to do wheel bearings I just never attempted it without air tools. How possible is it without them? I know there's a post about this but is the hub67 model ok for my 2003 awd xlt? Or should I spend the extra money and get the hub29 model?

Where are you seeing HUB29 offered?

According to service records from the previous owner a Ford dealer installed "4L2Z 1104 AA" on my 2003 XLS 4x4 in Oct 2011 which is the HUB67.

I don't foresee needing any air tools to replace the front wheel bearings. The hardest part looks to be removing the axle nut since it's a 4x4. Rear is a different story, need a press.

 

[dla]

Hi all,

I recently took my 03' XLT Explorer AWD to a CJ Tires location.

Are you sure you aren't just getting an upsell?

 

[mbrando1994]

Where are you seeing HUB29 offered?

According to service records from the previous owner a Ford dealer installed "4L2Z 1104 AA" on my 2003 XLS 4x4 in Oct 2011 which is the HUB67.

I don't foresee needing any air tools to replace the front wheel bearings. The hardest part looks to be removing the axle nut since it's a 4x4. Rear is a different story, need a press.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYFnZAtXGcE

Some online stores offer just 67, some come up that 29 is recommended. My gut said 67 as well but I guess its natural to think the more expensive thing is better. Both appear to be Timken bearings so I don't think there will be any issues with using the 67. Thanks!

 

[mbrando1994]

Are you sure you aren't just getting an upsell?

The mechanic there took me out to the garage and physically showed me all of the suspected problems. I agree theres a lot of play in the drivers side bearing but none that I could feel in the passenger side. However when turning left the hum is more pronounced. It makes no sense to me.

It is possible they're trying to upsell me but I took it in specifically for a running gear/suspension inspection/diag and that's what came back. The guy talked to me as if I was going to do it myself so I'm not sure honestly. I will be doing most of this myself except possibly the steering shaft since I don't have much experience with those.

 

[TechGuru]

The mechanic there took me out to the garage and physically showed me all of the suspected problems. I agree theres a lot of play in the drivers side bearing but none that I could feel in the passenger side. However when turning left the hum is more pronounced. It makes no sense to me.

Anything the vehicle has "pairs" of I would replace in "pairs" whenever it is financially feasible.

If it were me I would replace the front wheel bearings as a pair even if only one is bad, chances are the other one is on it's way considering it has the same mileage on it as the bad one.

 

[mbrando1994]

Anything the vehicle has "pairs" of I would replace in "pairs" whenever it is financially feasible.

If it were me I would replace the front wheel bearings as a pair even if only one is bad, chances are the other one is on it's way considering it has the same mileage on it as the bad one.

Thanks, I ordered the HUB67 part (2) to replace in a pair. This would be the best thing to do I agree, so that way they're both done and over with.