Swapped Calipers & flex lines - no pedal

[Phil Lorenz]

Going through college in the early ‘90s I worked as junior mechanic & have done 100s of brake jobs... & never have I been this challenged.

On my 2010 I swapped all 4 calipers & flex brake lines that connect the calipers, & after extensive brake bleading I’ve got low pedal pressure.

So, I swapped out master cylinder (first time Autozone & second time Motorcraft). More brake bleeding & still low pedal pressure.

I bought VXDiag with Ford IDS off Amazon & ran the antilock motor (more brake bleeding & with antilock motor doing the pumping). Still low pedal pressure.

No fluid leaks anywhere & rechecked all fittings (no double copper washers either).

I also have Ford factory manual... so I’ve followed Ford steps (minus TSBs I don’t know about).

I’m at a loss & will take any advice.

Thanks
Phil

 

[boominXplorer]

Check bleeder screw locations. They should be at the top of each caliper.

 

[AKForce]

Worn rotors by chance?

 

[Mbrooks420]

A worn rotor shouldn’t really cause a soft pedal. The piston just protrudes further to make up for it.

When you ran the pump did it purge air out through the lines?

 

[Phil Lorenz]

A worn rotor shouldn’t really cause a soft pedal. The piston just protrudes further to make up for it.

When you ran the pump did it purge air out through the lines?

Yep. That part was cool, because the IDS test actually simulated ABS event & I was able to break the bleader loose during 3 separate cycles, & fluid pressure (the squirt) was all done by the motorized ABS unit.

**Oh & the brakes worked perfect prior to this (all preventative maintenance because I had car apart replacing wheel bearings & struts... thought hey hydraulics have 100k miles let’s replace them too).

 

[Phil Lorenz]

Worn rotors by chance?

New rotors.

 

[Josh P]

This happened to my van, the abs system failed with no warning light. YouTube has many videos on the subject, I'll post a link to one.

 

[Phil Lorenz]

Check bleeder screw locations. They should be at the top of each caliper.

Calipers, left & right are on the correct spindles (nothing upside down)

 

[Phil Lorenz]

This happened to my van, the abs system failed with no warning light. YouTube has many videos on the subject, I'll post a link to one.

Crap that’s big money. But why fail after fluid is lost (replacing brake stuff downstream) &/or later when pressure is applied again (trying to work this all out in my brain)? It of course feels like I’m trying to compress an air bubble when I hit the brake pedal.

 

[Josh P]

I don't own a 06-10 explorer so someone else active here would be able to help better than I could.

 

[boominXplorer]

Calipers, left & right are on the correct spindles (nothing upside down)

Positive front and rear are on correct? Have any way to post pictures of each caliper?

It was 2 months ago someone else went 5 pages into a thread then finally figured out the calipers were installed wrong (put left on right and right on left). I suggested to check bleeder screws on the 4th post and he thought they were correct at that time till he posted a picture on the 50th post when he had replaced everything else.

 

[Phil Lorenz]

Well $825 (Sneed Ford online) for ABS Control Unit. Fingers crossed that’s it... & if not who needs brakes their overrated

 

[boominXplorer]

Any way to post those caliper pictures up before spending $825?

 

[Turdle]

Any way to post those caliper pictures up before spending $825?

I am well aware of the story Boomin was referring to, and would encourage you to post pictures, even if you think it's a waste of time. That is a lot of cash to some people.

 

[Phil Lorenz]

Okay okay I’m an idiot. I’ve pretty much replaced my entire brake system (using all new Ford parts) only to find... I did install my calipers upside down (bleeders at the bottom versus on top, where all the nice air was trapped). We’ll shout out to the tow company & fine folks at the Ford dealer who got a good laugh. I’ve been humbled by this for sure

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d shout out an apology to BoominX who called this, and tried to get you to post pictures, despite your insistence they were correct.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Have to be the first one, can't resist

Isn't that what Booming was saying all along ?

PS: 2nd

 

[Phil Lorenz]

Have to be the first one, can't resist

Isn't that what Booming was saying all along ?

PS: 2nd

Ya as always not a clean story. The car was 100+ miles away at my old mum’s house (I live in the city where garages are hard to come by). So, I didn’t have the car handy (worked on it during visits & holidays) & you know, well, with all my knowledge & Snap On tools it just couldn’t be something so simple

And I owe to others like me to close the case of “no pedal” after brake job

 

[boominXplorer]

It's always the NOVA people that think they know everything, then the Snap on tools you purchased made you a professional. Glad YOU figured it out.

 

[Phil Lorenz]

It's always the NOVA people that think they know everything, then the Snap on tools you purchased made you a professional. Glad YOU figured it out.

Well, next time your advice will be the last I ignore

Hehe before you write the book I spent 4 years repairing Detroit Diesels in the Army (88L), 4 years working at a Sears Auto while in college (alignments, brakes, exhaust, VA state inspector) & 4 years managing NTW & Merchants stores.

Evidently, I’m still prone to overlooking simple solutions

Truly I want to thank everyone for the help I got on this thread.