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Sway Bar Bushing Replacement

I am in the process of replacing the front end links. I've got the bottom nut off but the top nut just spins the link shaft inside the collar without it coming off the tread. As a result, the end link is still connected by the top and won't budge!

Can I just hammer it from the bottom? torch the bushings to get this thing off?

It shouldn't be this hard?
 



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You should just be able to push that bolt (shaft) up from the bottom and all the bushings and spacers should just fall off. Just tap with a hammer and once the shaft is flush with the bottom bushing get another long (skinnier) bolt and keep whacking it up in there till it all falls apart.

However, you can cut the shaft in half or burn it apart if you need to.......it is all going in the trash can anyway.
 






I had to torch some of my bushings to get it out. With was able to get the whole sway bar out and use a hack saw to cut the bolt in half.
 






You should just be able to push that bolt (shaft) up from the bottom and all the bushings and spacers should just fall off. Just tap with a hammer and once the shaft is flush with the bottom bushing get another long (skinnier) bolt and keep whacking it up in there till it all falls apart.

However, you can cut the shaft in half or burn it apart if you need to.......it is all going in the trash can anyway.

Ok. Thanks for the advice. I tried pushing it up and off—it is frozen on there. I will try hitting it off. Is it better to have it on a jack or with the tire on? When I had it jacked up (on stands) the control arms aren't level which my be causing the end link to stay put?
 






Go to pep boys or auto zone you can get the poly bushings for about 10 bucks, but you need a new bolt, nut and washers.I just bought 2 new link kits and swapped out the bushings
 






Once the endlinks are installedand tightened should I be able to grab the links and actually be able to move them with my hand? Mine have a slight bit of movement when I grab and pull on them.
 






Once the endlinks are installedand tightened should I be able to grab the links and actually be able to move them with my hand? Mine have a slight bit of movement when I grab and pull on them.
Yeah. Don't over tighten them or they will wear out very quickly. The link needs to be able to move.
 






Thanks for quick response. I was getting some clunk on the right side and noticed it had quite a bit of movement compared to the left side so I tightened down the right side. After tightening the right side down, both the left and right sides have slight movement if I "tug" on them by hand. And no more clunk on bumps!! The units were put on the truck about 1 year ago and I have driven about 12k since they were put on. They are Moog units with the blue poly bushings.
 






Good heads up from zembonz. I'm on my second set of Moog bar end links after rehabbing the whole front end of the truck about 3 months ago. I got overzealous with the tightening and they ate themselves up. First the ride was really hard and lots of noise, then it mellowed out for a while and was fine, finally lots of noise from up front again so I checked and the bushings had been chewed up. I ordered a replacement set and was sure the second time to tighten both sides equally, and pay attention to the bushings. You only really need to tighten everything down till you've got a "snug-ish" fit on all the link components. Don't do what I did the first time and tighten it till the bushings were bulging a little.
 






Thanks for the warning IamIam. I feel pretty good about the level I have them tightened to. The bushings have only a very slight bulge to them (hardly noticeable) and if I grab the end links I can move them a little bit (using a little force). Before tightening the right one would move with only a slight push/pull with my hands. The good news is the front end is much quieter (like it was a year ago when these were installed) and I also notice my braking has improved!! I guess over the past year of driving they loosened up a little bit because I only noticed the clunk starting a couple of months ago. This is my commuter truck so it gets a combo of highway and city streets every day which is rough on brakes and suspension pieces.
 






Thanks and Mission Complete

My Thanks to Gustav129 and everyone else that threw in their two cents. Due to this advanced read, I was able to change my End Links and swap out shocks in about 3 hours total time. I also swapped out the Diet Coke for Shiners and saved the brats for dinner.

Here is the before, notice NO bushings left on top.
EndLinkBefore.jpg


And the aftermath.
EndLinkAfter.jpg
 












hey i noticed an earlier post sayin it was possible to replace sway bar links with 2 wrenches and a jack. i dont have easy acces to tools but my buddy has a snap on set hes headin to his house today said hed get me what i need...this is my first job so im as dumb as they get, could someone tell me what size wrenches i need? preciate it big time. ('98 ford exploder)
 






Bolt Brackets

I attempted the link repair got all the parts but I think my socket wrench is too small because I couldn't get the bolts loose that attach to the frame of the truck. What should I use to make this easier? I tried to use liquid wrench and get some of the rust off but that didn't seem to work at all. Any help would be great! The post is awesome!!

Chris
 






Hey Guys, Just want to say thanks to all who post some great stuff here. I've used this forum for my rear disc brakes, the gear selector (used the zip ties), the shocks front and rear, and the front sway bar bushings, which leads to my question. I have the metal crunching/huge squeaking sound when going over speed bumps. I have the 34mm bar. bought the moog bushings, replaced the shocks and the sway bar links. I still have the noise. What could still be causing the sound??
 






We changed shocks, sway bar bushings and end links on my son's (new to him) 98 Explorer. It's the first vehicle that is "his." Like my dad, I made him do the work (under supervision.) At first it seem like I was punishing him, but after the work was done and he realized what a difference his work had made he was thankful. Now, he's all about wrenching on the thing. It is amazing what an inexpensive repair can make!
 






I just did this upgrade as my original bushings on the links were not there and the Ex would be all over the place when braking at highway speeds. Now she is rock solid and the write up was very accurate. I did have to put a torch to the upper sway bar bolt to loosen it and the passenger side upper link bushing do not seem to seat well, but I suspect this is because there was basically nothing there before and just needed to be worked in. I will check this in the AM.
 






I did this over the weekend with MOOG parts and was a great fix! Easy to do.
 






MOOG makes a nice set with blue bushings. I got mine at Amazon after the bushings in the first replacement set (el cheapo) went south. Ford didn't cover the OEM set that bit the dust--unbelievable--the rod on one side just snapped in two. On replacement, I just snug up the bolts, drive around a few days to let it settle in. If I hear thumping, and I did this time, I go back and torque some more. You want to impose the minimum torque necessary to eliminate thumping; else you destroy your bushings and get to repeat the job next year.
 



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This post was fantastic. The step by step photos are very helpful. I have a question: I was thinking of replacing only the frame bushings, as they are the only parts making noise. Will there be an issue replacing only those parts and not the entire package?
 






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