Sway bar end links and ride height

[Kjhadfield]

I decided to change the end links since I lost a bushing on the 1 stock link and it was clunking around. This sure hasn't been my weekend, I was wrestling both when it shouldn't of been this difficult.

I sheared the nut off and had to cut the rest out on the drivers side. I 1st installed everything with the bolt running up. I had to jack up the truck on the driver side to get all the bushings and sleeve between the sway bar and lca. After tightening it down the shown threads were longer than the passenger side. The passenger side came out easier, no cutting but the new end link was a bear- I think the threads or nut isn't good. I had to really use my force to crank this side down just to get the bushings to squeeze (like with a breaker bar). And still after that the bushings didn't look at all compressed enough.

Took a break and went to hf to use up the 20% weekend coupon and came back and watched a YouTube video. Decided to do it over this time with the bolt going down (nut in the bottom, should of done it this way anyway). Had to use the jack again on the driver side but not on the passenger side. Taking off the passenger side to flip the bolt was a real bear- breaker bar all the way off (I really think something is up with the threads or nut). And again it took the breaker bar to get the bushings to compress like the drivers side. The 2 center bushings still didn't really compress like the top and bottom- which is why I stopped there.

I did take a measurement of both sides (ground to bottom fender) and I was shocked to see the passenger side measures at 36 3/8 and the drivers side at 35. This would explain why I only needed to jack up the drivers side. But if I remember right when I did my tt for the new tires, I'm sure I had it less than 1/2" difference. Anything I should look at? Other than body mounts- unless that's the only thing it can be? Could the torsion adjuster bolt of loosened since I did the tt, only on 1 side? Was thinking when I do the uca also adjust the torsion bars to level it out before going in for alignment. Also with as much force needed for the new passenger end link, would you try to get a replacement?

The drivers side

And passenger side, note the 2 center bushings not really compressed but the top and bottoms were

 

[swshawaii]

Like doing the torsion twist, you need to drive a little for the suspension and end links to seat into position.

Tighten until the bushings slightly bulge, the exposed threads should be about the same for both sides.
Approximately 10-12 ft/lbs. for Moog K7275 or bayonet type end links with thermoplastic rubber bushings.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Like doing the torsion twist, you need to drive a little for the suspension and end links to seat into position.

Tighten until the bushings slightly bulge, the exposed threads should be about the same for both sides.
Approximately 10-12 ft/lbs. for Moog K7275 or bayonet type end links with thermoplastic rubber bushings.

I noticed the drivers front had a lean before removing the stock end links and when I 1st installed them, I drove 40 miles round trip to harbor freight that's when I pulled the measurement before I flipped the bolts the 2nd time. The exposed threads are definitely not the same, w/ the drivers side having more (drivers side is the one lower by 1 3-8"). The passenger side (the one hard to tighten) I put a torque wrench on it but at 18 ft lbs it would click and it wasn't even tight, like you can grab it and move it. So that's why I had to use a breaker bar, this is the side I'm wondering if I should get a replacement for.

 

[swshawaii]

Puzzling why your side to side fender height variance changed from 1/2" to 1 3/8" after changing end links. Anyone with a Ranger based vehicle (RBV) experiences the dreaded Ranger or gangster lean to some extent. Cause has almost always been contributed by excessive driver side weight from the gas tank, battery, driver, etc. that causes faster wear and sag on the driver side leaf springs. Your side to side variance of almost 1" may be difficult to get close to level. Replacing your rotten body mounts will help. Here's the factory spec for your ST.

Vehicle Lean (Side-to-Side Differences)

Front wheel opening— maximum 16 mm (0.6 in.)
Rear wheel opening— maximum 20 mm (0.78 in.)

 

[Kjhadfield]

Sorry I probably made that sound more confusing than I meant. The last time I pulled a measurement for fender height was after the tt. I can't remember what it was exactly but I'm positive it was no more than 1/2" difference. Before I did my end links I have noticed that (from looking straight at the hood) the driver side looked uneven but I didn't pull a measurement then. I'm positive the 1 3/8" difference isn't from doing the end links, it's just happens to be when I thought I should actually check it.

Before I did the tt I had questions about the side to side difference and the conclusion was the driver and gas tank as you mentioned above so I wasn't concerned of it being a little off. Now I can't figure out how it got that much of a difference since then- I don't think it was more than 3-4 months ago. Only thing I've done since was shocks and that actually raised it some (I wish I took measurements then but didn't). Only reason I know it raised some was it cleared the slight tire rub on inner fender at full lock.

I do need to do the body mounts but cant imagine that would cause a lean (unless the drivers side is worse than passenger but they both look the same as far as the 2 center mounts side to side).

 

[Sensei Wu]

Hey there, I know this is a really old post but I see that you are an active member. Also I know I'm going to feel dumb after I ask this but here it goes lol. What are you referring to when you say tt? I just can't come up with what it means. Thanks! And thanks for the good info

Sorry I probably made that sound more confusing than I meant. The last time I pulled a measurement for fender height was after the tt. I can't remember what it was exactly but I'm positive it was no more than 1/2" difference. Before I did my end links I have noticed that (from looking straight at the hood) the driver side looked uneven but I didn't pull a measurement then. I'm positive the 1 3/8" difference isn't from doing the end links, it's just happens to be when I thought I should actually check it.

Before I did the tt I had questions about the side to side difference and the conclusion was the driver and gas tank as you mentioned above so I wasn't concerned of it being a little off. Now I can't figure out how it got that much of a difference since then- I don't think it was more than 3-4 months ago. Only thing I've done since was shocks and that actually raised it some (I wish I took measurements then but didn't). Only reason I know it raised some was it cleared the slight tire rub on inner fender at full lock.

I do need to do the body mounts but cant imagine that would cause a lean (unless the drivers side is worse than passenger but they both look the same as far as the 2 center mounts side to side).