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Sway bar mounting piont differences 97 98

ActionYobbo

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Year, Model & Trim Level
98 xlt
I see that some 97’s the bar mounted to the frame while others mounted to the crossmember then in 98 the explorer only mounted on the frame but the ranger mounted on the crossmember.
What one is better and are the swaybars the same? I have a 98 explorer and it breaks/ distroys a set of end links yearly.
Its happening so regularly that I keep spares on hand. I have several 98 explorers and an 01 mountaineer.
 



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The factory
Links last like 200k miles perhaps try a set of factory links and bushings?

The ranger and explorer frames are just slightly different

With sway bars the one with the largest diameter is typically better

I like to remove the front sway bar completely let the ifs be ifs
 






How does it handle with the bar removed? How’s the body roll?
 












The body roll is very real. I got totally used to it, but anyone who was new in the truck was freaked out by it.
 






Try it see if you can live with it

Rear I usually leave in place on 4 door explorer
Ranger used for hauling also keeps rear
My personal daily driven rigs no sway bars ever. These things are ifs I love the long travel of the ttb the sway bar forces it to act like a solid axle and limits the travel. Hood springs and shocks plus a wider wheelbase = a hoot to drive even in the bumps
Only on my tow rigs do I have sway bars but they are also solid axle

We Live back in the woods I have 2 miles or crappy road each and every time I leave my house
Dirt every day

Body roll is no big deal hahaha
I can 3 wheel my bronco ii
 






I understand the idea to take the bar off, but I do not understand this difference between frame and cross member. Can you provide diagrams or something?

I've done the links and bar bushings on my '98 before and I would have called the mount, the frame crossmember, not one or the other. I could be remembering it wrong.

Are you breaking them from the additional stress of off-roading? My first set of links, broke because they had just rusted through. Second set, bushings wore out. Next set of bushings will be Energy Suspension polyurethane. I used polyurethane on my sway bar bushings as well and sometimes they squeak, and then they stop for months, even years now since I recall hearing them.
 






Rubber is better
I don’t really break sway bar links but I do replace them often, especially for customers
And our full size trucks
Most of the sway bar links here on our trucks I built myself because I run custom suspensions (extend or use junk yard bits)

Will see about getting pictures that show the different sway bar mount locations year to year
 






I understand the idea to take the bar off, but I do not understand this difference between frame and cross member. Can you provide diagrams or something?

I've done the links and bar bushings on my '98 before and I would have called the mount, the frame crossmember, not one or the other. I could be remembering it wrong.

Are you breaking them from the additional stress of off-roading? My first set of links, broke because they had just rusted through. Second set, bushings wore out. Next set of bushings will be Energy Suspension polyurethane. I used polyurethane on my sway bar bushings as well and sometimes they squeak, and then they stop for months, even years now since I recall hearing them.
The early models bolt to the crossmember you drop for a lift. The later models bolt directly to the frame rails.

IMG_8096.jpeg


IMG_8097.jpeg
 






I understand the idea to take the bar off, but I do not understand this difference between frame and cross member. Can you provide diagrams or something?

I've done the links and bar bushings on my '98 before and I would have called the mount, the frame crossmember, not one or the other. I could be remembering it wrong.

Are you breaking them from the additional stress of off-roading? My first set of links, broke because they had just rusted through. Second set, bushings wore out. Next set of bushings will be Energy Suspension polyurethane. I used polyurethane on my sway bar bushings as well and sometimes they squeak, and then they stop for months, even years now since I recall hearing them.
I have several miles of “gravel road” to drive too and from my house. Not the type of road you can drive a focus down with out grinding on the underside on the bad spots. The explorers do a good job of staying straight and rolling along on the ruff stuff but those links dont last. Mostly the bolt head on the drivers side snaps off then we have clunking and banging until I replace it. Dont notice any difference in handling except the tires squeal when making tight turns in a parking lot.
I was asking which design is better so if I change to the better design would this problem go away.
 






The sway bar mounting point will have no effect on your links. Most people way overtorque them, and that’s why their life span is typically poor. Next time upgrade the hardware to rule it out.
 






Is there a happy medium, like running longer bolts and doubling up on bushings, or using springs on the bolt too, to allow more travel, but still some sway control? I suppose a thinner sway bar might be the more obvious option.
 






The sway bar mounting point will have no effect on your links. Most people way overtorque them, and that’s why their life span is typically poor. Next time upgrade the hardware to rule it out.
I am using nylon lock nuts so no over torquing going on. I am averaging 5k to 8k miles to a link
 






got 10k out of quick steer ones. switched to energy suspension poly and all good luck since.
 






I've still got the redesigned moog problem solvers on mine... I created a topic about it at the time, wasn't impressed at all with their hollow thermoplastic bushings and am surprised that they're still holding up, or at least were when I saw them in spring. Might've helped that I lathered silicone paste onto their contact areas. Surely it also helps that I don't put many miles on it any longer.
 












I run the thermoplastic Moogs too, but I don’t wheel. Daily drivers. They’ve lasted way longer than I expected. Their rubber ones got chewed up pretty quick.

Although now I’ve got some noises up front, so maybe they’re finally giving it up
 












they aren't stock but some convert from t bar to coils. turdle has 410 fortune has done it before and rock ranger sells a conversion kit at northpeak4x4.com he does great work ;) saw him a week ago
 



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