Swing out tire carrier | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Swing out tire carrier

  • Thread starter Thread starter chris's2005
  • Start date Start date
C

chris's2005

Well Ive been drawing up plans to make a swing out tire carrier. Ive finally finished the plans and blueprints. As of now it mounts in the 2inch reciever, as i build it i will be drawing plans to also attach it to the frame as well. CHANGED NEW PLAN "I plan on using 1/8inch for the uprights and 3/16 inch steel for everything else, also gusset plates will be added for extra strengh" (thanks members for the imput on steel issues)

You might ask why? about the gusset plates. Well let me tell you why, yes the welds will be strong enough. but however when this is finished i plan on designing a rack above the tire. and with the gusset plates you wont have to worry about wieght and the possibility of breaking.

So here it is, ask any questions you may have.

(p.s. i will be fabbing this in the next month or two, im going to keep track of the parts cost, so maybe anyone who is intrested in having one i can give them a price that i could sell it for:thumbsup:)

Let me know what you think

-Chris

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If it were me, I would use something a little thicker for at least the receiver tube, and the tube that welds to it. Tires/rims are pretty heavy, and it will be back there bouncing around while you are driving. I would say a min of 3/16 thick for the main stuff, but thats just me.
 






If it were me, I would use something a little thicker for at least the receiver tube, and the tube that welds to it. Tires/rims are pretty heavy, and it will be back there bouncing around while you are driving. I would say a min of 3/16 thick for the main stuff, but thats just me.

Ahhh i get your point, thats why i posted this here;) to get imput

Thanks never thought of the bouncing and stress being put on at that point. will be changing that:thumbsup:
 






if you have access to a tube bender you could use d.o.m tubing. tube pipe is much stronger then box tube just an idea. my family owns a hotrod shop and we do a lot of roll cages and such URL removed check it out
 






I fabbed one up a little while ago, mines going to swing out. The only problem I see with attaching it to the hitch receiver is you won't be able to open your tailgate.

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Got some plans rolling around for a similar design, I like the Idea but I would put it to the frame and build the main frame from 3/16" or 1/4", using an extreme heavy duty hinge on one side... problem is finding a hinge that can take that kind of weight for sustained use. The other side will clasp to the frame on the other side, and if I balance it right for the 38" tires Im running I should be able to decrease the "bounce effect" at least by some/

Im cropping the roof off behind the back doors do liftgate isnt an obstacle for me, as it would be for most.

Youre further along than me though, cuz you have a viable drawing made up and my whole idea is just made up right now.

Looks good but I would agree with kert0307: use 3/16" or 1/4" steel on the main frame tubes.

Good luck!

Danny Ray :salute:
 






I fabbed one up a little while ago, mines going to swing out. The only problem I see with attaching it to the hitch receiver is you won't be able to open your tailgate.

QUOTE]

if i measured correctly it shouldnt be a problem, i have a body lift and the rear bumper sits lower by 3inches and it should have 1inches of clearance. (until RB gets time to fab me brackets for my bumper)
 






Got some plans rolling around for a similar design, I like the Idea but I would put it to the frame and build the main frame from 3/16" or 1/4", using an extreme heavy duty hinge on one side... problem is finding a hinge that can take that kind of weight for sustained use. The other side will clasp to the frame on the other side, and if I balance it right for the 38" tires Im running I should be able to decrease the "bounce effect" at least by some/

Im cropping the roof off behind the back doors do liftgate isnt an obstacle for me, as it would be for most.

Youre further along than me though, cuz you have a viable drawing made up and my whole idea is just made up right now.

Looks good but I would agree with kert0307: use 3/16" or 1/4" steel on the main frame tubes.

Good luck!

Danny Ray :salute:

Thanks

Ive switched my plans to 3/16 inch steel and 3/16 inch gusset plates.

also once its built i will have a better idea on how to bolt it to the frame, so it will be bolted to the frame eventually
 






if you have access to a tube bender you could use d.o.m tubing. tube pipe is much stronger then box tube just an idea. my family owns a hotrod shop and we do a lot of roll cages and such link removed check it out

I live right around the corner from your shop. I might have some work for you soon.
 






i've been toying with the idea of cutting some slots in the back bumper cover and attaching some tabs to the top and bottom of the bumper tube - these tabs (4 in all, one on top and one on the bottom of the bumper tube on each side) would extend towards the back of the vehicle through the bumper cover and allow the swing out tire carrier to be installed that way - one side would be the hinge, the other side would be the catch.

the only issue i forsee at the moment is that it would interfe with the backup sensor - for those of us that use them :)

then again.. if the tab is welded/bolted ot the bumper tube well enough, a top mounted tab may suffice for the hinge, and the unit might be installable ABOVE the sensor....
 






Ok change of plans, i was going to buy a clarke 95en mig (welds to 1/8inch) now i changed my mind to get the clarke125en (welds to 1/4 inch) so my desgin will be all 3/16 inch steel.
 






Ok change of plans, i was going to buy a clarke 95en mig (welds to 1/8inch) now i changed my mind to get the clarke125en (welds to 1/4 inch) so my desgin will be all 3/16 inch steel.

Sweeeeeeet can't wat to see the finished product :thumbsup:
 






hey chris what about if the use the sides of the hitch. with the body lift my hitch sits like yours and has a bar coming out the sides of the hitch. im sure you know what I mean. weld a
bar on that and a hinge then go from there that way you can still tow and have a swing out tire carrier. kinda like this

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________/ chris pm your email and ill send a pics of what I was thinking of doing. I can't post pics on my phone and that's all I have internt on so
 






I would personally look for a used lincoln, miller, or hobart mig welder. the clarke is ok, but just like anything else you get what you pay for, and you can prob. find a used one for the same price as a new clarke. Also you are going to want to use gas the flux core looks like crap. I have a lincoln 125 with an argon/co2 blend and I love it, if I get a chance tomorrow ill lay some beads down and take some pics so you can see how much better the weld looks using gas.
 






it would kind of be like a bike frame where the forks go on a bike frame would be your pivot point for the hinge. and where the front sprocket would be you would mount the rim. then on the factory hitch bolt or weld a piece of "u" shaped steel about 12 inches long. the nut crusher bar on the bike frame would stid into the U shaped piece and slid a pin in. this would be all steel of course but just a idea. you would have to mount your plate on the tire tho. but you can still tow. idk how understandable this was but any question post em
 












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