Switching to manual hubs

[Cole94]

I have found new hubs and hub nuts. Is there anything else I need?

The hubs: Mile Marker Premium Lock-out Hub Set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RZFOIG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2UUWCCR4G5EFA&psc=1

The Nuts: Mile Marker 95-27997 Hub Nut Conversion Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RZFOGS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

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Also looking at the Warns, but they are only 1/4 turn disengage, and plastic ends, so you can't use pliers to turn them if they are jammed. That and they're more expensive

Warn 29071 Standard Manual Hubs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000UUU4Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Warn 32720 Spindle Nut Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000182DZQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Any recommendations?

 

[Rick]

Here is a good write up on replacing the auto hubs with manual:
Manual Hub Conversion Ford Explorer Converting Automatic to Manual Hubs Tech Tips

I have only used the Warn hubs, but I have heard that the Mile Markers are good too, so no help there

 

[Cole94]

Thanks. Good info on that site.
I was looking at mile markers for the 3/4 turn, but they are cheaper, and I don't want to sacrafice quality/lifespan for $$.

 

[massacre]

After converting to manuals, you don’t have to back up to disengage the hubs, right? Just unlock each one manually and press 4x4 button off and good to go?

Does it matter whether you lock hubs first, then engage 4x4? Or engage 4x4, then lock hubs? Is one preferable to the other? Thanks my hubs should be here tomorrow

 

[Cole94]

Negative on the disengaging, you just twist, click, and go.

It seems to me that it wouldn't make a difference either way on the engaging unless the t case can drive the front independently from the rear... someone else would have more info on that part.

 

[Rick]

After converting to manuals, you don’t have to back up to disengage the hubs, right? Just unlock each one manually and press 4x4 button off and good to go?

Correct.

Does it matter whether you lock hubs first, then engage 4x4? Or engage 4x4, then lock hubs? Is one preferable to the other?

Doesn't matter. You can lock your hubs at the beginning of the trail and go in and out of 4wd as needed.

 

[massacre]

So as long as the 4x4 switch is off, the front driveshaft doesn’t turn even with hubs manually locked? That’s pretty cool

 

[Rick]

So as long as the 4x4 switch is off, the front driveshaft doesn’t turn even with hubs manually locked? That’s pretty cool

No, the front driveshaft will spin, but it freewheels in the transfercase until the front axle is engaged.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

I have run Mile Markers for 10 years, including in the picture to the left<

 

[massacre]

No, the front driveshaft will spin, but it freewheels in the transfercase until the front axle is engaged.

Thank you for this explanation!

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Just remember to lock BOTH hubs, even if you have a front locker.

Front locker + one hub locked = new hub :-( (if you have a heavy foot). Ask me how I know.

 

[Cole94]

I have run Mile Markers for 10 years, including in the picture to the left<

Well, they look pretty sturdy...

Guess I know what I'm going with now.

 

[Cole94]

So, just to clarify, I just need the hubs and nuts and I'll be fine, right?

 

[massacre]

Just installed my manual hubs and realized that the spring shop engaged the 4x4 even though I told them not to because the front diff was empty.
Because the light stays on a little bit when in 4x2, I drove about 35 miles with empty front diff on dry pavement.
I’m pretty mad about this since we specifically discussed it. Also, I brought the truck in for new leaf spring bushings, why they felt the need to engage 4x4 is beyond me.

Removed drain plug and from what I can see everything looks ok and I can spin it over nice and easy by turning front driveshaft by hand. No bad noises.
Going to put gear oil in and hope for the best.

So am I screwed here? Am I going to have to pull everything apart again and get a new diff? I don’t want to rebuild it myself to be honest after a straight month of working on this truck I need a break.
This is why I work on my own stuff and usually don’t farm stuff out, obviously this would not have happened. Just spent a grand on getting 4x4 system up to snuff and now I’m worse off than when I started maybe.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

If the hubs weren't 'turned in' (engaged, locked) then there wouldnt have been much load on the gears to heat them up.

If they were turned i, you are most likely still ok. Put in fresh gear oil and consider changing it or sucking out a sample from the bottom of the diff in a couple months after running it in 4x4 a while.

I wouldnt worry too much.

 

[massacre]

Yeah you are correct Albino
My auto hubs were not engaged so the axles were turning but not under load.
I just added gear oil and drove it for a while with 4x4 engaged with hubs unlocked, and then locked the hubs for a couple miles only.
Over 55-60mph I get some decent vibration but I mostly use 4x4 in snow, where I would not be driving that fast. At the speeds I use it for, it seems to be fine.
I def think there might have been some slight damage but not nearly as much as I had thought. I couldn’t see anything blue or burnt up inside so i’ll just leave it as is and if it blows up, i’ll replace it. Hopefully that is sometime after this winter.

 

[massacre]

Sorry I got off track

Installed my Warn manual hubs today, one thing I will say is that the instructions that came in the box sucked royally. They explained how to remove the auto hubs, and how to torque the wheel back on, with absolutely no mention of how to install the manual hub nuts/washers etc. Luckily there are writeups on here to help lol.

It was easy enough that my wife could prob do it, I have done a ton of similar setups on big trucks, same thing just way bigger. They seem to work great, I am very happy with them. I would recommend anyone with problem auto hubs to replace them with these Warn manual hubs, the money is not too much and easy install.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

Your vibration might be from misaligned u joints. Especially on the passenger axleshaft. Easy mistake but requires removal of spindle (again) to correct.

 

[massacre]

I made sure they were in phase when I installed it.
Well, I got it as straight as I could, one tooth was 99% straight went over a tooth, was 80% straight so I went with 99% straight.
Not sure if this matters or not but it is an open diff as well so only one side was even turning.
I may end up having the diff rebuilt with all new carrier and pinion bearings someday down the road if it starts giving me problems.

 

[jd4242]

Just remember to lock BOTH hubs, even if you have a front locker.

Front locker + one hub locked = new hub :-( (if you have a heavy foot). Ask me how I know.

I only lock the driverside till i need both..ive only broken one hub and i got a heavyyyyyy foot with built supercharger. .

75% time i never needed both and whole reason is,if do break something thats the short shaft..its easily swapped or stub can be left in and passenger side locked in to get off trail..plus with both it pushes BAD..

Now take that with grain of salt. .i dont do alot of rocky type of wheeling so the tire can slip not causing as much force as if it did ir split between both tires...i also carry a spare driverside axle,spare 2 hubs AND a rear driveahaft...lol

This was last day and had both locked,it definitely was screaming and i didnt care..only hub i ever broke...lol