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Switching to Synthetic Motor Oil

10,000 miles on an oil change is just crazy, IMHO. Have you ever done a Used Oil Analysis on your oil? That's the only way to know (with multiple UOA's) if your Lexus is having "no problems" with regard to your oil selection and change interval.

I run Mobil 1 in both my Porsches. 5W50 in the 987S and 20W50 in the 993TT. The UOA's show the oil is pretty much used up at the 7,500 and 5,000 miles marks respectively.

I am NOT looking to get the most miles out of my oil change intervals, and I am NOT looking to skimp on the actual cost. I am only concerned about using a high quality oil and giving my engines the best opportunity for long term success. Oil's cheap. Motor$ are e$pen$ive.

Oooh, awesome cars!!

I 99% agree with you about the mantra of "better to change oil too frequently than not frequently enough". Overall, I cannot believe the 10, 12 or 15k mile oil change recommendations which many manufacturers are going with (in most cases it's because THEY are footing the bill for recommended maintenance as a perk for buyers).

The one thing I would throw in the ring for discussion is the idea that different cars seem to "wear out" motor oil at different paces. Case and point, many current gen Subaru turbos (in my case, an old 2005 Subaru Outback XT 2.5L turbo) tend to "soil" their engine oil very quickly, whereas other cars do not. I know its not empirical or scientific whatsoever, but if I see that my synth oil has gone from golden honey colored to dark brown or black, I'm changin' it ASAP and adjusting my oil change interval accordingly.

Just my two cents' worth....

Cheers,
Tim
 



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5 oil changes in 28K miles is a bit much. At least with Mobil1 synthetic you can go to 10K mile intervals, that's what I'm doing in my Lexus, no problems.
5 changes in 28K is 1 change in 5600 miles.
I change mine every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, which ever comes first. That is usually the 6 month time frame since I do more short trips than long ones. I know some will say it's a waste of money to do it so often but hey, it's my money and my time. I'm retired and every dealer service visit gets me free coffee and a free wash. Plus I get to hang out with the service guys and the salesman. Who knows, this could be helpful in the long run.;)
Picked up my Limited March 14th and have a total of 4635 miles (7460 km) on it.

Peter
 






5 changes in 28K is 1 change in 5600 miles.

Peter

No he already explained intervals were not 5600 miles up above, when stated "The first one was done at the 1,000 miles. I alway do this with my new cars/trucks. So, 4 oil changes in about 27,000 miles is every 7,000 miles."
 






I used to be one that changed their oil at the 5K miles mark. In 2001 I bought a BMW. With that came scheduled maintenance at no extra charge. I followed their oil life monitor and was surprised to see 17K to 19K miles for oil change. I sold the car in 2006 with 146K miles. Never used any oil and the engine ran the same as the day I got it. With that said, from then on I just go by the computer change intervals. If you think about it, the car manufacturer has an incentive for more frequent changes considering reputation of longevity for their fleet and more trips to the dealer. In all my years of driving, boating, RV'ing I have yet to ever experience any oil related failure or problems.

I do question Ford's decision to use 5-20w as their choice of oil viscosity for most gasoline engines, yet for the 2.0 Ecoboost they recommend 5-30. I am thinking the 2.0 is working hard with the turbo, so the 30w is needed. Using that logic, wouldn’t the 3.5 benefit from the 30w as well under hard driving, such as towing? Some will say to use the 5-20 due to tighter engine tolerances, however I researched the actual engine specs and found the bearing clearances and ring gap tolerances to be no different from GM, who specs 5-30w. Others state is due to Ford's desire to increase the average Fleet CAFE mileage. I think the reasoning is the later, CAFE goals. My Audi calls for 5-40w or 0-40w in extreme cold.

I'm sure the Ford recommendation for 5-20w is just fine, after all you do not hear complaints of engine issues, although I do see on the board of burning oil smell upon hard acceleration.
I plan on staying with the 5-20w full synthetic in the Explorer, following the factory change intervals but wonder what is happening in the crankcase in 100+F summer temperatures.

In the end it motor oil is like politics and religion. Everyone has a different opinion.
 






In the end it motor oil is like politics and religion. Everyone has a different opinion.

Isn't that the truth!

Just because someone does something different than you, doesn't necessarily mean it's wrong. That can go for oil viscosity, or change interval.

I'd be interested to see what the wear levels were on your new Ex Bill, since you did the 1,000 mile change. It would be interesting to see the test results to see if the wear items- especially copper, chromium, and tin levels- are dropping after break-in or after the switch in viscosity... Can you post share the change sample analysis? :thumbsup:
 






I'd be interested to see what the wear levels were on your new Ex Bill, since you did the 1,000 mile change. It would be interesting to see the test results to see if the wear items- especially copper, chromium, and tin levels- are dropping after break-in or after the switch in viscosity... Can you post share the change sample analysis? :thumbsup:

Joe, I don't do UOA's on the Ford. Only my Porsches.
 






5w-20 Full Synthetic Oil Change with Quaker State Ultimate Durability

Just an FYI for everyone...

I own a 2011 Explorer with a 3.5L V6 in it which calls for 5w-20 oil. Till this point I've been doing my own oil changes with Motorcraft Synthetic Blend because I was able to get Walmart to price match an advertised price of 13.88 for a 5 quart container. The stock that I bought (30 quarts) has run out and I was looking to switch to a full synthetic motor oil since Motorcraft full synthetic is hard to find at regular retailers like Walmart, Target, Autozone, etc.

As such, I don't do extended oil change intervals therefore I don't want to invest in Mobil 1. I also hold little stock in keeping a synthetic blend in an Explorer for 10,000 miles. I know this may cause a little debate but the best thing you can do for you engine is to change it more often then less. I've looked at many of the UOA's on BITOG and it looks like there only pushing Motorcraft Synthetic Blend about 5000-6000 miles before TBN levels run low.

Personally, I do my oil changes anywhere between 3,000-5,000 dependent upon driving conditions, etc.

Anyways Quaker State Ultimate Durability has similar product data sheet numbers to the Motorcraft Full Synthetic and it's only 20.97 at Walmart versus 18.33 for Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. For an extra two bucks I think its worth it even if you do more frequent changes. Another neat thing is you can get a $20.00 rebate from Quaker State on this oil so it ends up costing you 0.97 cents. I stocked up and bought 30 quarts (6 - 5qt jugs). I do all the oil changes on a new 2012 F-150, 2012 Focus, 2011 Explorer, 2010 Fusion. I am sure it won't last long.

As a side note and this is no kidding aside this oil change has seemed to quiet the 2011 Explorer's 3.5L engine slightly. Albeit no oil change to date has went more than 3700 miles since the engine has only 12,000 miles and the first two changes are fairly quick for me to get all the shavings, etc. out. I guess I am wanting this thing to last forever.

Hope this is helpful and overall it looks like a good synthetic oil to use especially if you're like me and like doing 3,000-5,000 mile OCI.

NOTE: I ONLY use Motorcraft filters as I've found them to be the best around for the money and they are great quality.
 






A used oil analysis is the only way to know for sure. I'm on BITOG too, one thing I've learned is that if you're going to change your oil every 3000 to 5000 miles then it doesn't matter much what oil you use. I've not tried every oil under the sun, but of the oils I've tried in my family's vehicles, Pennzoil Platinum consistently gave the best UOA results (better than Mobil 1 and it costs less). That said, in my wife's Taurus Motorcraft 5w-20 had essentially the same UOA results as full synthetics over 5000 miles, so I saved a few bucks for a long time and got Motorcraft. These days it gets Max Life since it has 155,000 miles on it. Still runs like new.

In my Sport Trac I run Pennzoil Platinum with a Mobil 1 or K&N filter for the full recommended 7500 miles and the UOA's are fine.
 






I'm getting ready to send off a Blackstone UOA on a Mobil 1 5W20, Motorcraft FL500S, 10,000 mi, 11 months, 5% oil life left sample from my Ex.

I'll post it here when I get it back. I'm curious what the TBN is going to be.
 






I'm getting ready to send off a Blackstone UOA on a Mobil 1 5W20, Motorcraft FL500S, 10,000 mi, 11 months, 5% oil life left sample from my Ex.

I'll post it here when I get it back. I'm curious what the TBN is going to be.

subscribing, interesting numbers to see. looking forward for on 10K/11mo. sample numbers.
 






full synthetic oils have the ability to reduce friction. less friction, less heat. less heat less wear. Chevy was able to eliminate the external oil cooler from my Corvette by using Mobil 1. i then started using Mobil 1 in my '37 Ford street rod and saw a 8-10 degree reduction in my max water temp (these cars always run hot because the radiator isn't large enough). so i'm a big fan of synthetic oils (not just Mobil 1). that being said, i use Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w30 in my 5.0 EB which has 180k. i change my oil every 4-5k and use a Motorcraft filter. i think this is good enough for the way i drive.

Synthetic oils are made from petroleum stocks. while they reduce friction and resist shear, they do not provide extended service intervals. modern oils have the ability to suspend dirt particles pretty well, however they can only suspend so much dirt. that's why they turn black after 3-5k. even if you use a full synthetic oil you shouldn't go beyond 5000-7500 miles between oil changes to provide maximum engine protection.

i don't know what was up with the Mobil 15000 oil (do they still make it?) but when i worked for AutoZone i never saw anyone buy it and i'd never use it.
 






Koda2000 - I agree I don't like the extended intervals. Mobil does still offer a product stated to go 15,000 miles. Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance). I can't see how all the suspended contaminants can be good for your engine. It's great to see that that 5.0L EB is doing great at 180,000...keep going! :)

JohnnyO & 182RG - I agree that UOA is the only way to know. I'll keep on top of my post just because I am interested to see the numbers from Blackstone. We'll see what the TBN, Boron, etc. looks like. I also want to look at wear metals. Also I am curious how well the Motorcraft filter will hold up for 10,000 miles. It a great filter I just want to see what its limits may or may not be.

Overall, I agree with all the comments here that unless I do a UOA I am not really going to know for sure. My point that I was trying to make was that I do short intervals and I don't want to spend 33 bucks on Mobil 1 for a 6qt. oil change in my Explorer when I only want the oil in there say 4,000 miles. I found that I could go to a full synthetic via Quaker State with higher flash points, a little better viscosity numbers, pour points, and at least equal if not better protection versus Motorcraft SynBlend for what to equates to a $3.20 increase.

The breakdown:

Motorcraft SynBlend (5qt. - $18.33) = $3.66/qt = $21.96 for 6 qt.
Quaker State Ultimate Durability Full Synthetic (5qt. - $20.97) = $4.19/qt = $25.16 for 6qt.

Difference - $3.20 per oil change for Full Synth. versus SynBlend

Point blank...Motorcraft SynBlend is a great oil for the money. I would have stuck with it if the price was back down to the 15.00 range or even better if I would have got it for $13.88 again. I just thought at least in my mind that the full synthetic should provide some improved amount of protection given the small price gap now.
 






Haha so am I the only extended oil change guy? Going 12,000 miles on Amsoil Signature series. Amsoil claims 25,000 but that's kinda scary to me.
 






Politics, Religion, and Oil Change intervals

I'm getting ready to send off a Blackstone UOA on a Mobil 1 5W20, Motorcraft FL500S, 10,000 mi, 11 months, 5% oil life left sample from my Ex.

I'll post it here when I get it back. I'm curious what the TBN is going to be.

What do politics, religion, and oil change intervals all have in common? Anyway, your results will be informative for sure. Just to stir the pot, why do manufactures (who built the engine) like Ford or BMW state high mileage change intervals? Seems the engineers that built and designed the engines would not recommend something inappropriate. Just curious what people who don't follow the manufactures recommendation know that the designers don't (or ignore).
 






What do politics, religion, and oil change intervals all have in common? Anyway, your results will be informative for sure. Just to stir the pot, why do manufactures (who built the engine) like Ford or BMW state high mileage change intervals? Seems the engineers that built and designed the engines would not recommend something inappropriate. Just curious what people who don't follow the manufactures recommendation know that the designers don't (or ignore).

some people are just thick headed and stubborn. they believe what they believe and no one can tell them anything different. no matter that it's just common sense to everyone else. so it is like politics and religion

have you seen the recent viral video of the State Representative saying how he believes the Big Bang and Evolution theories are just "lies from the pit of hell" and how he believes the earth is only 9,000 years old? now that's fine to believe that, but why the heck is he on the Science Committee? that committee must have some interesting (long, unproductive) meetings...
 






What do politics, religion, and oil change intervals all have in common? Anyway, your results will be informative for sure. Just to stir the pot, why do manufactures (who built the engine) like Ford or BMW state high mileage change intervals? Seems the engineers that built and designed the engines would not recommend something inappropriate. Just curious what people who don't follow the manufactures recommendation know that the designers don't (or ignore).

I think you make a valid point. However, the same guys that do the testing are likely the same ones that don't follow their own advice. Overall, I think people can just do what they're comfortable with.

If you look at the same engine Ford 3.5L V6 the OCI is different between the Edge and Explorer. Dealership said Edge needs to come in at 7500 miles. Explorer needs to come in at 10,000. Both are 3.5L's.

Also there is different values for normal, severe, and extreme driving.

Severe driving is 5,000-7,499. This is likely what faces cities, towns, counties at least in the midwest. It isn't particularly flat, does have cold operation, does idle for periods (i.e. MFT updates :)), etc.

Overall, you have to look at the powertrain warranty. 5 years / 60,000. If theoretically the engine only has to last for what it is warrantied for then you could likely do 10,000 OCI. Let me be clear that I am not saying it going to die right at 60,000 but why not value your investment even though it depreciates.

Point blank I don't want to turn it into a oil change interval debate. My main goal is to say I do shorter intervals, you guys can do what you want, there's a neat deal on Quaker State especially if you want name brand full synth. and maybe someone can benefit from this if they have the same OCI, etc. view as mine.
 






UOA - Mobil 1 10K Miles, 11 Months, 5% OLM

I always test the 2nd oil change in new cars to make sure the oil / filter combination is good for the duration I've selected.

Factory fill was changed at 6,500 miles. Mobil 1 5W-20 Full Synthetic and Motorcraft FL500S were used.

This combination was used for 10,000 miles, 11 months, and down to 5% on the Oil Life Monitor. All within Ford guidelines for normal driving conditions.

And the news is:

TBN was still adequate, no fuel, water, or antifreeze contamination. Wear metals are normal for a new engine still breaking in and will decline over time as is always the case with every engine I've tested.

This will continue to be the oil / filter of choice for 10K OCIs.

Enjoy!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/88748040@N02/8095393895/
 















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