Synthetic Gear oil change

[jaykar]

110,000 maintenance
Thinking about changing gear oil in rear,front and
transfer case in 94 exployer.

Was going to use sump pump to remove old oil.
Thinking about going to something like Mobil 1 Synthetic.
No leaks anywhere now.

Good idea or not
What type and wieght recommended.

Input appreciated.

Thanks
Later

 

[James909]

It definitely a good idea to change the fluids you mentioned and it may increase your gas mileage a little as well if you use synthetics. Pumping out the oil is pretty much the only way to get the old oil out on the front diff, unless you take the whole pumpkin off. For the transfer case though I would just use the drain. And on the rear diff I would take the cover off, it's very easy and that way you can see what's going on inside. Just make sure that you can get the fill plug out of both the TC and rear diff before you drain the old fluid. Mobil 1 is a very good oil, I use it everywhere possible. You should use 75w-140 in the back, 75w-90 in the front, and ATF in the TC. The only complaints I have with Mobil 1 is that it's very expensive and I have a LS in the rear diff and it chatters a little under hard acceleration in a turn. Not sure if it's because of the Mobil 1 or not. But a little friction modifier would probably fix that problem.

 

[jaykar]

Thanks for reply and forgot about the cover in
the rear.
Can clean it out alot better.
Always worried about going to synth from conventional
oils on higher milage seals and leakage.
Was going to go with the Australian locker in the rear but
haven't gotten around to it yet.
And yes a modifier adder in your rear would probably cure your racheting
or clicking problem in the turns, unless running clutches.
Heavy on the HiPo car side.
Her baby and don't work on it much but was told thats going to
change. Can't argue with bodily harm.

Power steering fluid next and (slight) box slack adjuster
planned.

Thanks

 

[James909]

When synthetic oil was first introduced it was causing leaks because it was causing seals to shrink. Now there's additives to prevent that so you have nothing to worry about. When you adjust the slack in the steering gear remember that taking the slack out in this way will reduce the ability for the steering to return to straight on it's own.

 

[jaykar]

Thanks,
Yes, thats why I said (Slight) adjustment.
Slack not bad.
94 EB looks like day I bought it for her and looks like a keeper.

Just got done with Headlight upgrade and Auto Hub
rebuild.

Thanks again.

 

[Chilton Nystoruk]

you rebuilt your auto hubs?? nobody told me about that when they were skipping on me, i just converted to manual lockers, lol my old lady doesn't want to learn how to lock the hubs and I'm taking flack for it

 

[jaykar]

Auto Lockups

They were hard to get into the lock and then unlock mode.

When I pulled them completely apart down to the bottom of the
cap saw why.
Completely crudded up and wonder they even locked after trying
for awhile.
Had to take a soft wire drill brush, solvent and time to get all the
junk cleaned up.

Work great now, push the button and instant lock, though still have
to backup to unlock.

Later

 

[Potomac30]

I just did my 100, 000 mile service:
transfer case fluid, air filter, MAF cleaned, power steering fluid change ,11 Qts. trans fluid flush (did pan drop & filter 15K ago), lubegard, in-line trans filter added at cooler, new cooler hoses, rear diff fluid changed 75W90 Mobil1, antifreeze flush - - old fashioned green stuff - Carquest (IAT).
I did the front diff about 15,000 miles ago using Mobil1 75W90, removing the old stuff with a suction pump.:yelexp: