t5 ford 9" sas

[quickerest]

Can I swap a t5 onto my 4.0l ohv? what about the transfer case?

Has anyone used a ford 9" as a sas?

If you want toooo much info i can elaborate but really who likes reading too much hypothetical info.

UPDATE

Trust me, you don't want to read further than this.
Going with a Dana 60 SAS and a C4 trans. Thanks for your time.


Thanks for any help

 

[YountExplr]

are you saying that you want to use a ford 9" rear axle for a front axle swap?

 

[lifeguard379]

if you are most people use dana 60 outers.

 

[quickerest]

Ok you asked for it.

I am still piecing my #1 build together. I was thinking of going with the camburg front unit and hoping with some sort of internal mod I might be able to run 37’s without too many breaks. Had a plan to build in an easy repair breakage point( hub).

Then…. I thought about the ford 9” front end sas? Mostly because of the issue of lockers and the unfortunate issue of breaking the ttb 35 while locked. A d44 is just as weak as a 35. The 60 is a strong front end but what a massive pain in the ….. then I would have to go to 44’s just to get a reasonable diff clearance.


I originally wanted to go with a v8 swap, and I will with project #2.

For project #1 , gen 1 trail rig ( BC forests) I found http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/ and felt with a rpm motor I could justify the ttb and 37’s.

Quote from supersix: "We offer ported cylinder heads, cams, forged pistons to raise the compression ratio. To make 400 HP you will also need a 125-shot of nitrous or a turbo system."

I like NX for now.

I also plan on a future m112 sc to replace the NX.

I really do want to keep the ttb and to do so will cost a lot of money…but if in the end it holds up its worth it.

If I go sas I will use http://www.oristruts.com/index.html.
Although money is always an issue I am not afraid to spend it on the right parts. My concern is having to spend it twice.

So 400 (rpm) hp with a t5 and 37” tires with a ttb or 38” with a 9” sas.

I am starting with the transmission and working through the suspension, Then I will get a new motor.

The truck is a 1992 EB automatic

Thanks again this site is awesome.

 

[Freshmeat]

A T5 will never hold up to 400hp and 37s. Hell, it barely holds up to 225hp and 26s on a Mustang. Nitrous on an offroad vehicle just seems like a terrible idea.

I don't see how you can say the D44 is as weak as a D35. If that's the case, I have buddies running 38s on D44s all day long, so if a D44 will hold 38s, then stick with the TTB D35 and rock out.

You're kind of all over the place with this thread.... plus, the only front 9" axles I know of are custom built and super expensive. Go SAS with a D44, run your 37s, and never look back.

 

[quickerest]

A T5 will never hold up to 400hp and 37s. Hell, it barely holds up to 225hp and 26s on a Mustang. Nitrous on an offroad vehicle just seems like a terrible idea.

I don't see how you can say the D44 is as weak as a D35. If that's the case, I have buddies running 38s on D44s all day long, so if a D44 will hold 38s, then stick with the TTB D35 and rock out.

You're kind of all over the place with this thread.... plus, the only front 9" axles I know of are custom built and super expensive. Go SAS with a D44, run your 37s, and never look back.

I was trying to answer all the questions i could so the thread would not be too long.


I don't know what will or wont fit with this truck and all my contacts/friends tell me to run in the opposite direction.

I have decided on the engine 4.0l ohv 275hp without poweradder. I like the idea of a eaton sc to get the rest of the power. Nitrous is not bad if set up properly.

t5 transmission bad??? other ( stick) options?? I was originally going to swap a v8 and use a f150 manual drive line. Can I still swap a f150 manual drive line onto the 4.0l ohv? The transmission will be my first purchase and swap, so i need to figure out the trans and transfer case first.

d44 hmmm well if i can make it work, but so far I have been told over 35" on a d44 is a waste of money. Most tell me go d60. most of my friends pound the crap out of their trucks.

I need to be able to be a little emotional on the trail without easily breaking parts.

So even the camburg d35 is out then.??


Thanks again for your input.

 

[RangerX]

I can remember one guy here who scored a set of front and rear 9" axles for his Ex, but I don't remember his name. Do you have a line on a front 9", or are you going to build one yourself?
I run 37s on a locked TTB D35. I've only busted one stub shaft and two hubs, but I wheel carefully, or maybe smartly is the word.
I think half the benefit of going to a solid D44 is flex and stability, not just the mild increase in strength. I'll be swapping this year to one.

 

[quickerest]

I can remember one guy here who scored a set of front and rear 9" axles for his Ex, but I don't remember his name. Do you have a line on a front 9", or are you going to build one yourself?
I run 37s on a locked TTB D35. I've only busted one stub shaft and two hubs, but I wheel carefully, or maybe smartly is the word.
I think half the benefit of going to a solid D44 is flex and stability, not just the mild increase in strength. I'll be swapping this year to one.

After I swap in the manual transmission and transfer case I had planned on upgrading the TTB and dong a soa. I hoped I could run 35" at first while I cut out the fenders and installed flares. My final product would run 37x13x15 or 38x11x15 boggers. Most of the work camburg does would allow me to run larger tires if i was careful. I was just hoping there was something more I could do to the internals of the TTB ( axles and joints) that would let me push it harder. I figured if I upgraded the axles I could get away with locking it up and spinning tires in the snow. You know; snow, rock, snow, ice, dry rock "crack".

I will call camburg next week and see what they say.

I would pay someone else to set up the ford 9"

If I can get a D44 to work I will. So far I have been told it will fail quite a bit.

Thanks again

 

[lifeguard379]

i think you could run better joints in the d35. use d44 u joints?

 

[quickerest]

Ford 9” front end, yes very expensive. 1 ton parts with 9” pumpkin clearance

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=1554

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/jeep9infrontends.aspx

Dana 44, less expensive. ¾ ton parts

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/jeepdana44frontends.aspx


I am almost sure for the same price of a sas and a 9” Currie front end I could have a d35 ttb housing converted to a 9” with 1 ton ends. Lol

As most already understand it’s not realistic for my time line or budget. I figure I will end up with a ford 9" or Dana 60 sas. I guess I was just hoping that there was some ttb upgrade I had not seen yet.

Supersix and others back up the negative comments about the t5, they say go c6 ( actually c4) auto because of the NX. I may still use a manual Trans but it will end up being a 4 speed iron pig.


Thanks for your input and time.

 

[KPSquared]

Just a quick question... what is your "budget"... maybe if you put that number out there some guys would have solid suggestions based on what you can afford... I don't think your like this, but a lot of guys on here say they have a "limited budget" and what they mean is, " I'm stone cold broke, can't put a penny into my truck and want all this cool stuff to happen for free..."

So, how much cash do you have to throw at this project?

 

[Freshmeat]

Also, remember that a Bogger is A WHOLE LOT heavier than something like an IROK. Axles that can handle IROK or LTBs may not be able to withstand the force of a Bogger.

What wheeling experience do you have so far? Do you have something you're wheeling now? It really seems like you're trying to shoot for an end-all product with a beginner to intermediate skillset. (No offense at all intended, Sir.) In my opinion, a 5.5" lift kit on the TTB D35, some 35x10.50s, and a couple lockers and you'd be rocking out hard, having an absolute blast, and you wouldn't have to spend the next eight months trying to piece together what you're going to be doing next.

 

[IZwack]

Also, remember that a Bogger is A WHOLE LOT heavier than something like an IROK. Axles that can handle IROK or LTBs may not be able to withstand the force of a Bogger.

Quite the opposite actually - since snapping axle shafts is the #1 issue, given the same diameter, a tire with more mass/weight means more rotational inertia which would fundamentally act as a "fly wheel" soaking up any sudden "forces" (like during wheel hopping up a rock face). The "force" from an Irok and the "force" from a Bogger in rotation are the same - its called torque (force * distance). Inertia is the only difference between the two once they are rotating assuming they are different weight.

 

[Freshmeat]

Quite the opposite actually - given the same diameter, a tire with more mass/weight means more rotational inertia which would fundamentally act as a "fly wheel" soaking up any forces (like during wheel hopping up a rock face). Its "force" from an Irok and the "force" from a Bogger are the same - its called torque (force * distance). Inertia is the only difference between the two once they are rotating assuming they are different weight.

In how many threads do you plan to school me, dude?

I get what you're saying, but the inertia is greater on the bogger (given equal wheel speed to the IROK), so when something binds, the bogger has more rotational weight, which would be more likely to cause failure. Correct?

...and if not, then what is it about the bogger that causes a greater rate of failure compared to an IROK? Is it not that common in the rocks? I know in the mud it's more common to snap after going to a bogger. I figure it's because once it starts spinning and digging, once it finally finds some solid ground (or a root) it's going to grab hard and if that one tire is the only one that grabs, there are four others trying to then spin at different rates, creating a magnificent show for everyone who isn't driving the rig.

 

[IZwack]

AHah sorry... wont happen again.

what is it about the bogger that causes a greater rate of failure compared to an IROK? Is it not that common in the rocks? I know in the mud it's more common to snap after going to a bogger. I figure it's because once it starts spinning and digging, once it finally finds some solid ground (or a root) it's going to grab hard and if that one tire is the only one that grabs, there are four others trying to then spin at different rates, creating a magnificent show for everyone who isn't driving the rig.

I think there are many factors between the Irok and the Bogger that play in carnage. The Bogger is an older design and probably has a different compound compared to the Irok. The Bogger is meant for mud and loose stuff (hence the perpendicular tracks, like a tank tread) where as the (very new) Irok really is more for rocks (and general trail).

 

[Freshmeat]

It's no big deal, man- I'm always open to learning new things, especially in topics that interest me! I understand what you were saying, just hadn't thought about it from that angle before.

A lot of the guys with trail-only rigs down here have boggers in the back for the traction and IROKs in the front for steering (the boggers suck for steering, especially locked.)

 

[quickerest]

Also, remember that a Bogger is A WHOLE LOT heavier than something like an IROK. Axles that can handle IROK or LTBs may not be able to withstand the force of a Bogger.

What wheeling experience do you have so far? Do you have something you're wheeling now? It really seems like you're trying to shoot for an end-all product with a beginner to intermediate skillset. (No offense at all intended, Sir.) In my opinion, a 5.5" lift kit on the TTB D35, some 35x10.50s, and a couple lockers and you'd be rocking out hard, having an absolute blast, and you wouldn't have to spend the next eight months trying to piece together what you're going to be doing next.

No offense taken at all. I prefer the even heavier old school ground hawgs, but they are not as good on the rocks. Yes I have a lot of experience. BUT you are 100% right about the goal. I tend to get plan and final product oriented. I am already “wheeling” my current rig.

I have been wheeling since I was a kid. Let’s say my first real "off-road" fun was in a Ford Cortina with my dad testing the limited slip; logging road power slides. That should have told you my age.

I have owned too many Suzuki's to count. 1 yj, Two blazers 1 1975 1 1999 zr1, One 2000 explorer, 1 1994 grand Cherokee (Still had a frame) . All modified, abused and used. I could list tones of experience, the custom doublers and other things I had done, but really you don’t want to read that crap.

I am very aware that I could just buy someone else’s 30000.00 dollar pink jeep project for 10000.00 and be done. I am buying a jeep for my daughter that way.

I could buy this and be done http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/8822140

So I want to build my 1992 ford explorer EB because I know the trails in BC Canada are narrow, steep and often muddy. I also want the length of the 4 door explorer because I know what it’s like riding in a short Suzuki or Jeep trying to climb a hill. I like to bring friends 4X4ing so comfortable seating for 4 is always nice. I also wanted to be able to sleep in the truck if I have to. Divorce teaches you alot, lol. As you must know when you 4X4 and you are climbing steep muddy or snowy hills there are always chances to snap your axle. You also need to air down quite a bit when 4X4ing in the snow reducing your diff clearance. So I need alot of clearance and the ability to spin the tires hard regardless of the conditions.

When I say hard I mean with complete abandon, pedal down all the way. Fun.

I am going to be buying another vehicle as well more than likely a v8 1997-2000 explorer. It will be my #2 project and transportation while I have the 1992 on blocks.

I hope this long dissertation helped to understand my intentions.

 

[quickerest]

Just a quick question... what is your "budget"... maybe if you put that number out there some guys would have solid suggestions based on what you can afford... I don't think your like this, but a lot of guys on here say they have a "limited budget" and what they mean is, " I'm stone cold broke, can't put a penny into my truck and want all this cool stuff to happen for free..."

So, how much cash do you have to throw at this project?

Ready to spend over the "8 " months around 20k. If I needed to flex I could spend more, but really I wont need to. I have access to shops and tools. I can weld and tool quite nicely.

Reality is, I will take alot longer to decide and I will change my mind too many times. This could take a year before its finished. The important point is I don't leave my projects up on blocks in the back yard. I tried that style already. I make a plan get the parts and rebuild in phases. I daily drive my trucks, mud covered and abused.

I have already taken it out on 5 trips pounding the crap out of it. I just keep adding trans fluid and oil while I play. lol

 

[dkchrist]

ZF trannies would be a better choice for a manual for a five speed. (Adaptation to the V6 would be interesting though) There are a ton of as you say "iron pig" 4 speeds. This is a trail rig so do you really need overdrive? Also, why not go full manual vb on a C4? You get more control with no clutch and the conversion is very possible. Heck,if you are not opposed to using chevy parts use a 700R4 and full manual vb. Just thinking out load you know.

If you are good at tooling, why not a custom bellhousing?

 

[quickerest]

I am going to sound like a nut but I wanted to avoid an automatic... I just find a manual is so much better on the trail and they tend to last alot longer.

Tooling and messing around with plates and a drill press takes time that I don't have. Unfortunately I am hoping for a simple swap. supersix told me to go c6 (c4) manual vb, if its a straight bolt on I might do it. I know quite a bit about gm transmissions but i just don't have the knowledge of the ford transmissions, especially the bell housing options. Believe me, I felt very stupid asking the transmission questions.

I actually plan to drive this beast as often as I can. 5th gear is a plus. Part of my employment/contracting involves board meetings with respectable people driving BMW dick extensions. lol I love messing with there sense of well being.

I already know alot about the dana 44, 60 and the 9" but I never did know much about the ttb. I figure I can swap on a 9" but for the cost difference I could have alot more fun with my engine and just swap on a Dana 60. The 14 bolt dana 60 combo always works really well, and its cheap. I was just hoping there was a common swap other than the currie 1 ton 9". I can get a dana 60 and 14 bolt right now for 1000cdn. I don't mind paying 3k for a good ford 9" front end but it will end up costing over 4kUSD and I would rather spend the money on other parts of the vehicle.

So its just down to the transmission.

Hopefully I get my parts list from supersix today . I need to start buying crap I can bolt on real soon. I'm old so a month for you is like a second for me.

I have two donor explorers i am looking at for engines and parts and I cant buy them until i am sure of the transmission issue.

Thanks for all your help and for not bagging on me for the novice questions.