Taxxman's SAS

Well since everyone and their brother is starting an SAS thread I thought I would start one for mine.

According to the Fed Ex tracking number the Scout steering box is sitting at my house waiting for me to get home tonight. My 44 is sitting at a shipping dock waiting for me to drag the trailer over there tomorrow to pic it up. I'll get some pics tomorrow or Wednesday.

I am putting a Dana 44 from a 76 bronco under the front of my truck. It will be coil sprung and steered by a scout steering box.

 

[taxx]

thanks but it needs to be pressure washed underneeth so I can get some crap nocked off to paint it. Its gonna be a couple weeks before I wheel so she needs to get that 2 months worth of dust off

 

[JoshC]

Congrats Dave. That looks great.

What kind of front bumper are you going with? Do you have a winch?

I'm assuming you figured out the heim joint for the pitman arm?

 

[taxx]

Ya I think I figured it out. The stock bumper goes back on, just haven't had time yet.

Thanks

 

[DasFrem]

Hey Dave, quick question, do your tires rub at full lock on the radius arms?

 

[taxx]

Originally posted by DasFrem
Hey Dave, quick question, do your tires rub at full lock on the radius arms?

nope.

 

[jeffseal]

how flat are your radius arms are they angled forward alot?

i forget did you use the 3 or 5 inch springs?

 

[taxx]

3.5" Wild Horses. The radius arms have a decent angle on them to keep them out of the way. With the 7 degree bushings it worked out well.

You can get a feel for it in this pic...

 

[Robb]

Hey Dave,

Did you use a stock brake hose from something? Or is it custom? And did you run the hard line straight to the MC, or the ABS Module?

Thanks!

 

[NOTAJP]

Looks very nice. Relocating your track bar to align with your steering should eliminate all bump steer. I was thinking about your other post and I'd be worried about all the stress on the drop pitman arm. They are pretty beefy from the factory. I think I'd invest $50 for safe steering. I'm sure there is somebody better than I that would say it's ok to just beef up your stock one with the spacer.

 

[taxx]

Originally posted by Robb
Hey Dave,

Did you use a stock brake hose from something? Or is it custom? And did you run the hard line straight to the MC, or the ABS Module?

Thanks!

Bought new hardlines made for my axle then an extended line made for my axle, then I made new brake line from master cylendar to flex line at frame mount point. Rear line I put a new end on and hooked straight to master cylendar. ABS module is on the floor in my garage!

 

[taxx]

Originally posted by NOTAJP
Looks very nice. Relocating your track bar to align with your steering should eliminate all bump steer. I was thinking about your other post and I'd be worried about all the stress on the drop pitman arm. They are pretty beefy from the factory. I think I'd invest $50 for safe steering. I'm sure there is somebody better than I that would say it's ok to just beef up your stock one with the spacer.

I think the best thing to do is to drop the pitman arm like you say and get a trac bar drop bracket. less than $100 total. This then puts the trac bar more parallel to the axle and reduces the side to side motion of the axle durring flex..

 

[jeffseal]

another question for yall.

I am welding the axle wedges on my dana 30 so i can run the EB suspention setup. when all is said and done what angle do i want the diff at and how do i measure it?

should the steering nucles wehre the tie rod mounts to be parallel with the ground?

 

[VonZipper]

I have just a real quick question for all of you doing the SAS. I can understand why on the newer exploders, but what would you gain on a older ttb setup? Height? I am just curious?

 

[taxx]

Your gonna gain articulation on either setup, TTB or the newer IFS.

As for the knuckles when the tires are on you want the angle for the caster to be somewhere between 3 and 6 degrees from what I have read. 4 is ideal. The is the angle shooting down between the ball joints to the ground.

 

[BUCHVILLEMAN]

on teh jeep sites ive read that 6 is indeed the max. at 7 or above you begin to severly affect steering.

 

[DasFrem]

Am I correct in thinking that if say you didn't put in the 7 degree bushings or a drop RA bracket you would lose caster right? making the angle 0 or -4 or whatever when finished? The ideal agle should be 3-6 degress back like this:

Front of truck / <-knuckle back of truck?


the / is the knuckle angle.

 

[taxx]

Yes you are correct. Sometimes you need both drop brackets and 7 degree bushings, but I got away with just the 7 degree busings. My brackets aren't that far dropped and the angle is somewhere between 4 and 5 degrees.

 

[VonZipper]

Okay, more questions. With the straight axle, where do you gain the articulation? Is it because of the springs you are using? On a TTB the only thing that is limiting the travel is shocks, radius arms and the coils. If you make the radius arms longer, with Heim joints at the end, you get rid of all that. The coils are easy to swap also, just do not try to use 6" coils from a early bronco. TTB rides so much better it is just hard to imagine that a solid axle will be that much better.

I am not trying to knock any of you at all. I can understand why to get rid of the true independant suspension, but I do not see the benefit on a TTB setup.

I am really just looking for other peoples points of view on this. I have a wrangler axle I could put under mine, but I have not read or heard anything that really makes me want to go through all of that.

 

[taxx]

With either IFS you can get the down travel but what you lack is the leverage. With a solid axle you get one wheel up on a rock and the other down in a hole the leverage applies pressure on both wheels. With the TTB or other IFS the majority of the pressure is on the wheel up on the rock. DO a search for Zimmerman or the Zimmerman Mod. They have done several mods with the TTB to increase travel, but last I read still have not equaled the advantage of a solid front axle. Minus the fact that parts break easier on the TTB. It is hard for me to explane I understand it but don't know all the tecknical terms. There are a lot of guys here with both all the different setups and many guys running with the big dawgs running IFS and hanging with them, just more challenging and more parts to break.

Maybe someone can chime in and offer a better explanation. Alot of it depends on you wheeling.

 

[VonZipper]

I live in the Pacific Northwest, so all of my time is spent in the mountains. I have not broke one part yet in the front. Thats on about 30 or so trips, and 9/10s of them are not on the girly trails.

My only damage so far is that I keep bending the drivers side drop down bracket. That will get fixed tonight though with a peice of tubing and some bolts to the frame.

I can kinda see your point on the pressure to the wheels with a solid axle, but with one side going up, it is not really putting that much pressure on the other side, basically just the weight of the tire.

I guess it is all in the eyes of the beholder as to which way to go.