Tcase/Trans Skidplates | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Tcase/Trans Skidplates

I'm almost ready to hit the trails with my 99 5.0 D60/Sterling 10.5/Atlas 4.3 explorer on 40" TSL. The one item I need to address is belly protection for the tcase & auto. Does anyone have any pictures ideas of what has worked well?

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Can’t help you on skid plate pics but would love to see a pic or two of this beast...

Can’t help you on skid plate pics but would love to see a pic or two of this beast...
Here are the best ones I have right now



Mounty made some for his rig a month or two ago.

Mine cover a Atlas II and it goes back to tie in with the gas tank skid. There used to be a separate plate that covered the transmission pan but I removed it due to it acting like a heat sink and higher trans temps. I have also wheeled this rig all over the country and never hit that big trans skid plate so I figured it would be safe to remove. I made a cross member that went right under the end of the engine/begin of trans for the front of the skid plate mount.

Old trans skid plate with the new little one in front of it

The main skid plate uses the cross member for the transfer case / trans mount as a mounting point. It also bolts into the frame behind the radius arms mounts and rests on the frame for support, and its bolted at the gas tank skid plate mounts. Its 3/16 plate.



Cross member. I angled where it bolts to the frame mounts to keep it inside the frame rails, and so if the bolts fall out it will still stay in place. The skid plate covers the bolts/bushings for the trans/transfer case mount so they can't back out, but its still easy to remove.

Mounted with torque arm

Main portion of skid plate reworked for the Atlas

Here is what I ended coming up with. But after the first run I need to clock the atlas down a little. The front driveshaft rubs the upper link when the driver side is stuffed. So I may have to cut a hole in it.



Is that all 1/4" plate? I thought mine was heavy. Won't have to worry about bending that, you could get the entire rig off the ground with that as the pivot point and it would be fine.

Clocking it will give you a better drive line angle for the front. Maybe you could limit the compression on that side just enough to clear the link? My front driveshaft contacted the Y pipe so I made a flat spot on the pipe to clear it.

Nope 3/16, it’s in the 40-50lb range. I think I can still have the skid almost flat if I clock it down.