temp gauge question

[Robrt32]

I'm getting conflicting info on the web.... I do not trust my temp gauge.. I believe it faulty at times... It rises up and down and here lately its going up to the A before it drops but Ive YET to hear it bubbling when I cut it off OR find pressure on the top rad hose.I NEVER have to add coolant. I WANT to add a aftermarket gauge to see exactly what is going on.. Ive read I can't do that because the computer needs the factory sending unit also to read... My Toyota had 2 sending units, 1 for the gauge and 1 for the computer,,, Does the Exploder not have the same?

 

[Four0Sport]

yes.. it does. one on each side of the water neck. single pole for the temperature guage, 2 pole plug in for the coolant temp sensor. although, if you want a more accurage reading on your guage, try just replacing the stock sender and the thermostat. did wonders for me.

 

[Maniak]

On our '92 I wanted to add a new engine water temp gauge. I didn't want to make the stock one not work as it would drive me nuts to have a gauge on the dash that didn't work.

I put the new sending unit in the heater hose as it came from the intake. This way I can see the factory gauge which is reading the temp from the intake and the new aftermarket gauge is also getting the water temp from the intake (although a little farther down the line)..

~Mark

 

[Robrt32]

I just went and got my gauge.. Here is what it done.. This morning when it was maybe 80-85 out driving just 5 miles from work the gauge went up and down from the N to the A .. This afternoon with it 97 degrees I just drove 20 miles to town with the AC blasting and it stayed between the N and O the entire trip.. Its gotta be the gauge or sending unit and not anything mechanical, Or its "FIXING" its self every now and then.. Y'all agree? As soon as it cools down , I'm gonna put the aftermarket on it..

 

[Robrt32]

On our '92 I wanted to add a new engine water temp gauge. I didn't want to make the stock one not work as it would drive me nuts to have a gauge on the dash that didn't work.

I put the new sending unit in the heater hose as it came from the intake. This way I can see the factory gauge which is reading the temp from the intake and the new aftermarket gauge is also getting the water temp from the intake (although a little farther down the line)..

~Mark

How did you do that? You have to buy some hardware? or is there a inlet/plug there?

 

[Robrt32]

Evidently I don't understand all I think I KNOW about this...... I bought a 4 inch piece of galvanized and a T fitting.. I put a new factory sending unit in one side and a aftermarket gauge in the other... NOW NEITHER FREAKING GAUGE WORKS AT ALL... The factory never moves off cold and the aftermarket was showing 190 before I ever started... Any body got any ideas?

 

[Robrt32]

another update, I took the t and after market gauge completely back off.. I put the new sending unit for the factory gauge in the intake hooked it and went for a ride.. Its different, my fluctuations are not as extreme now.. its never drops below the O and never goes over the R.. Before it go from M down below the N and back to M..... I DUNNO.... First truck I ever had in my life that the temp hand moved like this on.. My Ford Ranger never moves once it heats up.. My dad use to all Fords have a haint in them

 

[Maniak]

It sounds like you forgot to ground that new galvanized T. Just run a wire from the Glavanized T to ground.. I used a hose clamp to hold the wire on it.

~Mark

 

[Skydiver]

It is common for those sensors to wear out over time. Most people just don't notice since they tend to act only slightly erratic and the temp reading it eventually settles on isn't too far off the true temp.

I'm changing mine this coming week. It's been giving be bad readings for a year now and getting worse as time goes.

 

[FarmTruk]

It is common for those sensors to wear out over time. Most people just don't notice since they tend to act only slightly erratic and the temp reading it eventually settles on isn't too far off the true temp.

I'm changing mine this coming week. It's been giving be bad readings for a year now and getting worse as time goes.

I think I need to do this as well.

160k on the clock, and over the past couple months, the temp guage hardly moves into the "NORMAL" section. AFAIK, the engine's at the correct temp, not running cold (has good heat), nor overheating (not loosing coolant).

So, I think my sensor's gone south.

 

[Robrt32]

Mine is definitely better with just the new sensor.... I just pulled a trailer 30 miles and have very very little movement now... Before it was all over the place

 

[burgundy1994xlt]

yes.. it does. one on each side of the water neck. single pole for the temperature guage, 2 pole plug in for the coolant temp sensor. although, if you want a more accurage reading on your guage, try just replacing the stock sender and the thermostat. did wonders for me.

Yep, same thing here. Had my own coolant problems lately. Ended up needing the new radiator I put in but the guage fluctuations were caused by my sender. Replaced the sender, (twice, LOL!) and all is well.

 

[Robrt32]

Well, It helped me for a minute.. Its back going all over the place again..As soon as it cools off some, I'm gonna hook the aftermarket gauge up and get some exact temps.. I'm really thinking about pulling the thermostat out all together and cross this bridge again this winter..

 

[fixxxer]

Pulling the thermostat out will definately give you some problems, I would recommend replacing the t-stat as they are very inexpensive. Without the t-stat, you don't build up the required pressure in the system, your engine warms up much slower, throwing the emmissions off and it will make your truck burn more gas.

 

[boggs1227]

Robrt32 .... have you checked the slip on connector that hooks onto the sensor ...mine was bad and had to replace it with a new connector when i replaced my temp sensor .

also have you ever used barrs stop leak ???

also the guage in the cluster .....it's properlly seated right ? you have not been in the dash removeing guage panles from the cluster have you ? maybe there is a tiny bit of corrosion around the pins the guage pushes into .

btw: i installed a 180 f stat( summer time stat) in mine and the most it will goto is "n" ( for normal outside temp running) and then either goes to just below "n" on cooler days then on hot days it will go up to " o " but never past it .

 

[Robrt32]

OK, update....... I put the aftermarket gauge on and assuming it is dead on correct... It heated up to 210 then thermostat opened.. It cooled down to 200.. It floats between 200 and 208.. It heat up to 208 while accelerating , once you get a even speed it drops back to 200.... It never had any kind stop leak to my knowledge in it.. The coolant is and has always been a clear green like its suppose to be.. I never have to add water..It never boils over..... I did notice some cracks in the fan blade at the bottom... Its all there, no part of it is missing but there are cracks...Oh its almost a 100 degrees here today.. I can idle with the AC on it never moves off 200

on the thermostat.... I know of 3 diesel engines and 3 Ford trucks right now running without a thermostat with no problems and have been for a few years now... I'm not saying it wont cause me problems, just curious as to why?? It seems to me the cooler the better

 

[Robrt32]

I looked online and at Advance Auto I found the Fan blade.. Part# 620-112 for 26.99.... I'm betting that does not include the clutch.. How hard is it too swap the fans?

 

[Maniak]

a couple things...

an 8 degree range in temp isn't bad.. Our X runs about a 10+ degree sweep once warmed up (192 to 205 in general).. It will go up to at most 210 as I go up a hill, but cools right back down..

Cooler is not better.. If it gets too cool the truck will go into open loop and will throw your fuel/timing curve out of whack..

changnig the van only isn't hard.. get the fan shroud out of the way (it won't come out, just get it loose).. pull the 4 bolts that hold the fan to the clutch, and then install/reinstall the fan and shroud.

~Mark

 

[Robrt32]

alrighty.... I don't like it going that high... I'm hard headed.. I'm fixing go to the local parts store and get them to order the fan blade and see if I can get a 180 or 185 degree thermostat...... I won't need the special clutch tool to change the fan blade??

 

[CDW6212R]

Some EFI computers are affected greatly by altering the thermostat to a much lower rated unit. Some are not, and the EECIV Explorers are likely that way. A 180 is no trouble at all, the PCM will stay in closed loop.

The later PCM's can be adjusted in programming to function properly with any lower temps, including a 160. Lower is better up until the point where the air/fuel ratio or timing is affected. If you do not change the stock controls at all, don't use a 160 without expecting some cold running issues such as poor fuel economy.

The older Fords before 1995 or so typically run 10 degrees or more over the thermostat rating. Thus the 180 will do fine for those. The later Fords all seem to have more efficient cooling systems, they run much closer to the thermostat rating. My 99 SOHC runs between 190 and 200 about 99% of the time, and I have a normal 195 thermostat. I have an electric fan set theoretically at 194 by the controller, so my effective temps are as planned. I could drop to a 180 thermostat and then play with the electric fan controller, to try to get a lower range of water temps. I'm doing fine right now with it hitting about 205 as a high for three hours of driving.