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Ten Myths About Synthetic Oil

aldive

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Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.
Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.

Ultimately it is the additive mix in the oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.
Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").

For example, it makes no difference whether it is 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) that oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.
Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended to use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.
Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth#5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.
Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer. But, beware, many of the other "synthetics" are not true PAO (Polyalphaolefin) synthetics (ie: Castrol Syntec, Penzoil, etc...) they are hydroisomerized petroleum oil or an ester based synthetic blend.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge
Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperatures and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum basestocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gums and varnishes. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital engine protection. Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow to critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.

Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Two other causes of sludge - ingested dirt and water dilution - can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system respectively, not the oil.

Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.
Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum oils are similar compounds and neither si damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Myth #8: Synthetics void warranties.
Untrue. No major manufacturer of automobiles specifically bans the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on the showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.

New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example SG/CE). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty. In point of fact, in the over 25 years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.
Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic basestocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dilution and acids (the by-products of combustion) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.

However , by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic motor oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.
Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical that conventional non-synthetics.

In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.

Conclusions
Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population.

But the word is getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in auto lubes, is well under way.
 



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awsome awsome awsome!! Thanks a lot for the info. This saved me a lot of confusion and me thinking to stop using synthetic since I am getting high miles.
 






I havea question, with number 4, it says it to use the same oil through out, and not mix. (right?)

My engine has had dino oil in it for 33k, when the oil is changed, I know that not 100% of it comes out as it does stick to the pan and what-not. When a conversion to synthetic is made, there must be at least some portion of dino oil left in the block. Is it really that bad for the two oils to mix?
 






what he meant by that was when you need to add oil if your motor burns oil, or you are at the half-way mark of of your synthetic oil change (filter change only) you should fill it/top it off with the same oil as in weight and Brand name because the additives vary between each manufacturer.

they can be mixed, but it would be wise not to mix different brandnames.

however when you change the oil you are always going to have a little left like you said and there is nothing you can do about that, but the new oil will mix or take on whatever is left.

so after the first oil change with synthetic i wouldn't worry about the dino oil fraction that may have been in there before you switched to synthetic, because it will mix with the synthetic and drain out with it
 






Okie dokie, thanks! In about a month I'll be making the conversion.

Is it bad to go over the date from the oil change place, but well under the miles? I think I remember al or somebody saying it wasn't.
 






and i know that switching from conventional to synthetic and back isn't a problem because i know people who only use synthetic in the winter because of the cold-start factor, and they haven't had any problems yet and they've been doing it for years
 






Great writeup Al. :thumbsup:
 






Myth #8: Synthetics void warranties.


this is untrue as you say, but some companies i believe require a certain weight be used, like the new engines that are specifically only suppose to have the 5w20
 












It's true that getting every last drop of old oil out is next to impossible. However, you can minimize the "carryover" by a) parking level or at an angle that will cause the pan to drain toward the hole, b) taking the oil cap off to ensure that any passages holding out due to vacuum will come unstuck, c) removing the oil filter while the plug is out, for the same reason as (b), d) draining oil while the engine is warm so it flows out faster, and e) letting it drain for a good, long time.

I would advise running a quart of Motor Flush or similar (toluene) through the engine before the oil change, but some of it may remain in the oil passages and dilute your new oil and/or destroy some of its lubricative properties. I don't suppose it would hurt to dump a quart through the engine while the plug is out, if it makes you feel as if you got something else out with it.
 






When I switched from conventional to synthetic, I drained the conventional oil, changed the filter and filled up with Mobil 1. I changed the oil and filter again at 3,000 miles to get any remaining convenional out before going to extended oil change intervals. I filled up again with Mobil 1 and am now running synthetic for extended change intervals.
 






Oil analysis data has shown that there is really no need to use a "flush" when switching oil. If you must do anything, simply pour a quart of the new oil in the fill hole and let it run out.
 






For those of you who use synthetic oil, how long do you go between oil changes?
 






Cypher said:
For those of you who use synthetic oil, how long do you go between oil changes?

I have gone 20 k miles with excellent UOA.
 






i've been running synthetic in my truck for about a year now and love it, it stoped my chain chatter. i have not had a problem with it...nock on wood... I use mobil 1 super synthetic 5w30.
Also, i try to change my oil normal time limit, 3 to 5k, more 5k jsut because of where i live. But its up to u, i wouldn't recommend anything past 5k.
 






i'd also mention

MYTH: If you switch to synthetic you can't switch back to regular dino oil.
this is a myth as i see it.
 












The longer change intervals help offset the higher price per quart. But dirty oil is dirty oil regardless of where it came from. Besides, if we don't follow the oil change interval recommended in their owner's manuals, they would void the new-car warranty.If in fact you have a new vehicle with warranty.
Most engine wear is cause by dirt in the oil.

Synthetic oils do lubricate better in my opinion . However, given the high quality of today's conventional oils, the high cost of synthetic oils, and the other factors involved in determining oil change intervals (and therefore cost-per-mile), there may not be an advantage in using synthetic oils for normal operation...

my 95 has over 150000 on it an never used synthetic oil.
my oil change is average $7.00 total $1.00 maybe for quart of oil and $2.00 for filter. and change maybe every months.
i undertand that people love synthetic oil, but i sitll think dirty oil is dirty oil and i would rather change my oil every 2 months rather than buy better oil and change it avery 6 month maybe to a year and have much better quality irty oil than having a heap fresh clean oil.


JUST MY 2 CENT ON A VERY DEBATABLE SUBJECT...
 






Have you ever had a UOA performed to validate ( or dispute ) you claim about dirty oil?
 



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I have been using mobil 1 for over a year now, and am very happy with it. I have still been changing it every 5,000 miles just because even though the oil is good longer, I don't believe that the filter's life is affected by it. I have better peace of mind when starting at very cold, subzero temperatures with it. My explorer starts very rapidly, even in extreme cold, but I would worry about how well it is lubricated at those temperatures during startup and warm-up if not for the synthetic oil which flows easier at colder temperatures. I worked with a mechanic who swore by synthetic oil because it has a larger capacity for holding dirt before the quality of lubrication goes down. I believe that he still changed it every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. I find that I pay maybe $15 more per oil change with synthetic, but since I only put on 10,000 or 12,000 miles a year it isn't a very large investment to protect the vehicle better, while possibly providing slightly better fuel economy and performace under certain conditions. Other than the oil change interval (really not sure about the filter life), I agree 100% with what aldive said.
 






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