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Tensioner Pulley

ldearroz

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'92 Eddie Bauer
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I'm replacing the bearings on the Tensioner Pulley and Idler pulley. Now-the tensioner pulley spun on its bearing, I had to shut down the quickly. Has anyone done any bearing replacement on the pulleys I mentioned? Do I need to heat up the pulley before I press the bearing in? I might just strake in 4 placed the hub of the pulley to make it tighter. Any suggestions?
 
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yellowcat

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My sugestion, spend the 25 bucks on a new pulley. If you get a driver tool that fits the bearing it makes it easier.
 
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ldearroz

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I do have the bearing installer/remover and used a hydraulic press it fits perfectly, but it still spun on the bearing. I looked for a pulley assembly but is not available here.
 
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Maniak

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When we rebuilt the motor in our '92 we put in new bearings on the idler pullies. I used Gorilla snot, also known as indian gaskett material on the bearing to help keep it in place.. Only been 15k miles or so since the rebuild, but so far so good, they haven't spun or come loose.

~Mark
 
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ldearroz

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What is a gorilla snot????? By the way I got my injectors rebuild here locally using ASNU, finally it worked, but now the prob is this.
 
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Maniak

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Here is a definition I found for it on the 'net..

"Gorilla Snot" is a glue that is often used to hold gaskets in place,and as a sealer for weather stripping on cars. Its very sticky and almost impossible to get off your skin and has the consistency of a deep winter cold snot .
"

Its basically 3m weather stripping adhesive. I got a can/jar of it years ago.. been using it ever since.. and yes, you can't get that stuff off your hands.. wear gloves. and whatever you do.. keep it away from your hootus.

~Mark
 
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Anime

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With the pulley having spun on the bearing already, the inside of the pulley might be super smooth and allow for even a new pressed in bearing to spin again. Some kind of adhesive like gorilla snot might be helpful, either applied to the outside of the bearing or inside of the pulley right before pressing it in. If the next one spins on the bearing, you might want to just get a pulley off a parts truck at a salvage yard or on the forum and use that, perhaps saving the spun-on bearings for later use if they'll fit.

I wouldn't ever suggest heating up a bearing to press it in, since heat would expand it and make it even more difficult to press in. If anything, you'd want to chill the bearing and pulley so the metal contracts some for a slightly easier press-in. Of course you'd want to let it warm up before using it, otherwise it'd spin on the bearing again.
 
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ldearroz

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It wasn't that smooth after the bearing spun, I was able to shut down the engine immediately. I put in four strakes on the hub before pressing the bearing in, I just installed it and now I'm hoping it'll hold, while I wait for the pulley to be shipped here at my place.
 
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CBII

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I just replace the whole pully in minutes and was on my way.

Let us know how long it took to replace those bearings.
 
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Maniak

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When I changed mine it took 5 minutes.

I put the pulley on a block of wood, whacked out the old bearing.. put gorilla snot in the pully, pushed in the new bearing, then installed it on the motor. I didn't install the motor for a couple days so I didn't have to wait for the gorilla snot to set up, but that stuff is tacky enough that I wouldn't expect to need to let it set up for very long.

~Mark
 
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boggs1227

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jb weld ? hey i use that stuff from fixing my door panles in the explorer to applying heat sinks on electronic componets...good stuff in my book and only takes a day to set .btw i'm useing it to fix my leather seats as well ...i'll do pics in the mod section in a couple of days when i have the time to fix them .
 
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ldearroz

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I pressed in the bearings again and put strakes on the hub at 4 places, then pressed in the bearing with an installer. 5-minutes. Installaion 15 minutes. I'm driving my EB now to work, seems like the bearings are holding so far. I replaced a new thermostat also, but it seems the temp goes up 3/4 on the gauge when AC is on the back a little less than half quite quickly. then it would settle in half-less than half of the gauge, is this normal? Should the temp read constant somewhere. Where is the usual range of coolant temp. in your Trucks?
 
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boggs1227

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mine always goes to the " o" and when it's a little hot like today it may get up to " r "...but my a/c is out so i can't give any data on the temp when the a/c is running .
 
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Maniak

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Our gauge always reads differently when I change the sending unit so I put in a real water temp gauge and put the sending unit in the heater hose. That way I always know what temp is running from the head..

I can watch the water temp go to 205F, then see the thermostat open and then it hovers right at 195-200. If its really cool out and/or raining (or go through a puddle) I can see the temp drop some and at around 180F the thermostat must close because it'll go back to 205 the settle at 195ish again.

~Mark
 
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ldearroz

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Oh now I see, that must be the thermostat opening and closing when the temp goes from a high 3/4 of the gauge then come back down quickly to half. Other cars/trucks I've driven usually stays relatively constant, I cant hardly see any change in the needle when the thrmostat open/closes.
 
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yellowcat

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I use the red loctite on my bearings.
 
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