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Test Drove (Need Advice) 98 Mountaineer V8

BrianV

Active Member
Joined
November 28, 2005
Messages
89
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1
City, State
Austin, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Mounty 5.0L
Ok, you may all remember my last thread about that 96 V8 Ford, well I finally test drove this V8 Mountaineer (1998) that was actually going for less money and had less miles.

I need some advice about a few of the issues I noticed:

First, let me talk about it in comparison to the 96 I tested earlier:

-The car just had new spark plugs and rotor put in and it seemed way more powerful than the 96 that hadn't had anything done in 50k miles. I took the engine to redline and it didn't hesitate. I was impressed actually, unlike the 96 that seemed a little weak.

-The car was white with grey trim and grey leather, which to me is better than the brownish leather in the 96.

-The interior was dirtier with some stains on the carpet (no biggy since I'll likely replace them with rubber mats since this is a utility/bad weater car)

-The exterior was in good shape, but the lady had a bug defelector on it which has 4-5 clips that are drilled through the hood. The deflector cracked and is now off the truck, but the 5 clips are still there. Taking them off would leave small holes in the hood and scratches around where it was. I could put another deflector on, but I've never really liked deflectors. I could get it bondo'd and resprayed but it's prolly not worth the $.

I think I prefer this 98 since A) it's newer B) the colors are better for me C) it runs better and the owner has done regular maint on it.

My concerns are the following, please help me determine how hard these are to fix, etc.:

1) The display on the radio doesn't work. The stereo works great, but there's no display. This isn't a huge deal to me since I use XM 99% of the time and will use that display for switching channels, but it's still nice to have a working display. Is there an easy fix for this, or do I need to find a new head unit?

2) The rear windshield wiper doesn't work. I tried to get it to work but it won't move. When you press the fluid button fluid comes out of the rear wiper, but it doesn't actually move (could be bad motor or something). I'd like to have this working, but it's not critical. The front wipers work great.

3) The transmission shifts hard and crisp (like the 96), but I noticed sometimes when going from coasting to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle that sometimes there's a little bit of a shudder feeling. I don't know when the tranny fluid was last replaced, but would that resolve this shudder? The tranny shifted smooth, but not as nicely as the 96 did.

4) When you lock or unlock the doors, this buzzing sound comes from the trunk locking mechanism, as if the motor is working an extra 1-2 seconds when you unlock/lock the doors. The trunk still locks/unlocks it just makes a buzzing/spinning sound for an extra second when you do it. I think a new lock motor might fix this. Has anyone else seen anything like this?

Those are really the only concerns, the car has 110k miles on it and the lady told me her mechanic said it should get a radiator flush in the next few months. She seemed like a good owner who is only getting rid of it because her father gave her his old 2001 Chevy Tahoe.

She's asking $4,500, but I'll probably offer around $4,000 for it. So, $4,000 for a 98 Mountaineer V8 (2wd) with leather. That to me is better than the $4,900 115k miled V8 2wd 96 Explorer with leather and sunroof.

Any advice is appreciated.
 



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Also, someone earlier mentioned that 98+ V8s got different heads, can anyone elaborate on that?

Another question I have is if there's any LSD in the rear end (mechanical, electrical, etc.)?

Thanks
 






there is no rotor in a DIS ignition system

The 98 has the P heads on the 5.0L and makes slightly more power.

Search for radio display, find your answers for that, likely it can be fixed.

that shudder scares me a little bit, but it could be so many things, including something a fluid level/change might fix. Could also be non transmission related (driveshafts, tires, etc)

$4000 is a GOOD price
 






I will try to answer some of the questions.
1) The radio display problem is common it cost around $110 to fix. (I had this same issue with my radio)
2)The shuddering in the tranny also seems to be common my 98' has been doing this since new and now I have around 182,000 miles on it and the tranny has never given me any problems.
3) The 98'+ 5.0 engines did have more power and better reliability. They come from the factory with the Gt-40 heads which make them breathe a little better hence more power.
 






Thanks guys. 410fortune, the shutter only happened once or twice and only after coasting and then dipping into the throttle hard. It wasn't violent or anything and it only happened at a certain degree of throttle.

What's the power output difference between the gt-40 head V8 and the non? Any improvement in mpg with the new heads?

I'll check out the radio threads. Any comment on the rear wipers or rear trunk lock/unlock?
 






Both heads are GT-40s. One is GT-40, the newer ones are GT-40Ps. The P's are an updated design which flow a little better. Both are extremely good heads though.

But, in 1998 the 4R70W was updated internally and became even more solid. I'd always to with newer than older. Plus, $4k would be a smokin deal.
 






My '99 Eddie Bauer had the stereo display problem as well. It's VERY common problem. There are ways to fix it yourself (Google search and you'll find info). There's a guy on eBay who sells the info for $20. Personally, I pulled the unit out of my dash and scored an aftermarket head unit. Better sound, more features and more reliable. Consider that option.
 






LSD is a limited slip rear differential.
You can check the axle code on the door sticker to find out what gear it has and if it is a limited slip rear end.

Limited slip is a traction device that helps lock both tires together for more traction, until the breaking point is reached, it is good for driving and cornering and bad weather. The factory LS unit typically wears out after 100K miles however.
 






I own a 98 (see my signature)

Don't worry about the holes "drilled" in the hood. They are there factory. I just put a bug deflector on mine see my review here A new one comes with rubber self adhesive buttons that you are suppoed to put on to protect it from scratching spots into the hood.

410 is right about everything he posted so I am not going to repost that info :thumbsup:

#2 probably the motor, not overly expensive

#3 I have this problem too, had it for the last 2k miles, changed the transmission fluid/filter and transfer fluid, no help. I am going to get mine checked out eventually. I don't drive mine everyday so it is not a priority. I especially notice mine going upgrade, never downgrade. It feels like it is trying to shift into a higher gear, but there is none there to shift to.

#4 never had this problem, but it sounds to me like the lock motor/actuator is going bad. Not sure about a replacement cost.

4k is pretty good. I bought mine in November with 98k AWD 5.0V8 Leather, Sunroof, Chrome wheels, Mach stereo, power seats...the basic Mountaineer package for $6000. Your not getting hurt for $4k or $4.5k! Just budget in about $500 extra for minor stuff that you want to fix/do.
 






Replacement stock HUs are fairly cheap as well. I just put an '01 Sport HU in my '98 Mountaineer for about $100 shipped.
 






section525 said:
Replacement stock HUs are fairly cheap as well. I just put an '01 Sport HU in my '98 Mountaineer for about $100 shipped.

I'm amazed at how many people bid those HUs up on eBay. I'd be afraid of getting another head unit with the display issue. Pretty common problem.
 






Am I the only one that rips the stock head unti out of anything I buy usually within about 15 minutes of getting it home? :)
 






410Fortune said:
Am I the only one that rips the stock head unti out of anything I buy usually within about 15 minutes of getting it home? :)

No. Heath does too. :p


I have had my stock stereo in mine for what... 7 years now?? :eek:

I never got into the "having a system" thing.
 






410Fortune said:
Am I the only one that rips the stock head unti out of anything I buy usually within about 15 minutes of getting it home? :)

Not at all. When I used to buy cars new (as in brand new from a dealer), I'd always get them with the most basic systems possible and rip them out soon afterwards. My plan with the Eddie was to stick with OEM for a little while and work on other mods first. The display issue drove me bonkers so the stocker got pulled out pretty quick.

I've yet to hear an OEM system that I've been truly impressed with no matter what hype they throw at you (Bose, Infinity, Boston Accoustics etc.) The price premium for these "premium" systems is a joke as well.
 






My mom's Touareg has a wicked system in it. There was an old Isuzu Impulse with a 16 speaker stock system that sounded pretty good too, but still stock'ish :)

I just cannot imagine paying $100 for a used factory head unit when they already have so many problems. $100 goes a long way towards a used/floor model good deck :) However it looks like I have two units I need to put on Ebay!
 






I have the radio display issue too. It is a royal PITA! But, I have owned 2 aftermarket head units in my life...and had windows busted out in 2 different cars and the unit's stolen. So, I will live with the PITA stock unit until it completely stops playing CD's. Damage Plan sounds the same with or without the display ;)
 






The shuddering could very well be a problem with the front driveshaft. I don't recall how it couples to the t case, but I think several members have had problems with the t case side of the front drive shaft. Not a very expensive fix. Liek everyone else says 4,000 is a deal, and for that you can put a few bucks in it, and not feel too bad. I'd check the trans fluid color just to be safe.
 






Mbrooks420 said:
The shuddering could very well be a problem with the front driveshaft. I don't recall how it couples to the t case, but I think several members have had problems with the t case side of the front drive shaft. Not a very expensive fix. Liek everyone else says 4,000 is a deal, and for that you can put a few bucks in it, and not feel too bad. I'd check the trans fluid color just to be safe.

It's a 2wd model (and I checked under the front of the car for a front differential) so there won't be any front driveshaft or t-case.

Thanks though
 






Well I made an offer of $4k. She was asking $4,500 but I think she'll appreciate the quick sale, plus registration is up 02/06 so that needs to be renewed ($85). Plus, it needs some cleaning up and other little things. I have a real nice 2004 G35 6spd that I love so all I really want is for it to be reliable for a few years and 40-50k miles. It has 110k miles now and seems pretty solid. I started my search looking for a SOHC, but after all the research I did here, I found that the 5.0L and the V8 tranny fits the bill the best for me. I'll keep you guys posted.
 



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Yeah, I read that it was 2wd but I'm and idiot and it didn't stick. :confused:
 






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