The 1994 Navajo LX Barn Find Restoration Project

[Mudman1]

Hello. Here is where I'll be posting my progress and any questions along the way. Last week I purchased a 1994 Navajo LX 4x4 5spd. One owner. 89,800 original miles. Paid a fair price for it. Body is 98% solid. Frame is solid. It was parked since 2005. It came with the window sticker! $25,000 and change new.

RockAuto.com took a bunch of my money. Driving it home I found out it has death wobble. So, I'm replacing all the rubber under the body. The only part I can't find is the two "center" rubber bushings for the rear stabilizer bar, the ones that connect to the frame. I'm also replacing the exhaust and O2 sensors back to the tailpipe as it is rusted out and hanging by a thread. Tires are from 2001, so those have to go. New radiator fan as the existing one has cracks all through it. New U and L radiator hoses. New belt tensioner, idler pulley, and belt. EGR and PCV valves. Radiator goose neck and thermostat. Front rubber brake lines, calipers, pads. Rotors will be turned. Hub rebuild kit. Ball joints and all steering joints. Shocks. Rear leaf shackle mounts.

I'm sure I'm leaving a few things off the list. I'll write up more as I go along. I'm looking forward to the journey!

 

[Stic-o]

Welcome, hardest thing to find for the old Navajo's is the front grill, headlights and taillights. Everything else is just a explorer sport.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Great find, welcome to the site!

 

[Jjpsalm1188]

Have fun! Rock Auto is a good source. I have found a lot of parts on Amazon as well.
John

 

[Mudman1]

I have a little YouTube channel...13 followers...and it shows what I have accomplished today.

I'll need to order the lower shock mounts for the front as mine broke. Everything came off pretty easy and the Milwaukee M18 FUEL impact makes life pretty easy. Sanded and painted the front sway bar. Lots more to go. Steering joints were not too shabby but I'm replacing them anyway.

 

[Stic-o]

I would replace the radius arm bushings too.

 

[Mudman1]

I would replace the radius arm bushings too.

They are already in the boxes on my cart. Hard does not being to describe them.

 

[Mudman1]

I made some good progress today, unlike Sunday. Darn spindle was not happy or excited to come off. But, we got it. Ball joints are out. Radius arm is primed. Here are some videos showing the work, and a few tips. This Forum has been a huge help.

 

[Mudman1]

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-seal/710453/2551724/1994/ford/explorer?pos=0

Add two of these to the expense list. The passenger side one was torn, rotted, and funky.

Got the painted radius arm installed. New bushings are made in China, but look a ton better than the factory ones. I'm unsure about replacing the other axle bushing (main beam bushing) because the diff is attached there. Has anyone replaced that bushing that attaches to the frame cross member? The right bar arm was easy as I had everything else off. I had to press the rubber out then chisel the steel case out. Did that on the garage floor. New ball joints went in easily. I'm not tearing into the front diff, so the first u-joint is staying factory. It is not in bad shape, little if any play. I did replace the outer one today.

 

[roscoe 0202]

check the bearings inside of the spindles suggest you replace with plastic bushing available from wild horses
roscoe

 

[Mudman1]

check the bearings inside of the spindles suggest you replace with plastic bushing available from wild horses
roscoe

I bought the needle bearing kit. The wheel bearings look good, but I'll inspect more this weekend. If it is rubber, I'm basically replacing it.

 

[Mudman1]

I got a bit done today. Lost over two hours as I had to travel to a different parts store to pick up rotors and rear rotor seals. Planned on having the old ones turned, but I looked and they were too thin and unevenly worn. $43 each. They came with bearing races already installed. So, winning there. I learned, the hard way, that if you use the National brand axle shaft seal (the one that sits behind the spindle), you cannot use the plastic spacer that comes with the SPK4 kit. You have to use the OEM plastic ring. Different thicknesses. The stub end of the axle shaft where the C clip fits...there is not enough slack in the shaft to get it in with the SBK4 ring. So, I had to break it all down again. Then still had to force the shaft forward a bit for it to clip in. Very tight fit. I attribute it to the depth of the National seal. Everything was treated to new grease. I also used a small ring of RTV on the back of the hub cover. There was gray RTV on both, assuming from the factory. The only things original that will be on the front are the spindle, knuckle, axle shaft, and axle beam. Everything else was modified or replaced.

I used the bottle jack trick to get the ball joints to seat last night. The AC Delco ball joints I bought don't have cotter pins in the lower bjs. But I figured out the best way to move the shaft and get the torque wrench in there. I also am glad that I saved the fasteners I took off. AC D did not include the upper bj snap ring.

I worked on the exhaust a bit. The outboard Y-to-manifold bolt on the right side snapped right off, just below the manifold threads. No problem. But, the inboard bolt head rounded off. #*%&(*&W. Tried the paper towel trick, no dice. So, I guess now I have to pull the fender liner and all 30 screws and bolts to have enough space to use the Dremel in there.

Tomorrow I'll get the spring, shock, and other stuff back in / on.

 

[Mudman1]

Got the driver's side spindle off. Only used 1/2 can of Deep Creep. I did find a perfect tool for it though. I have an older putty knife with a pummel on it designed to be hammered. Branded Craftsman. Narrow but blunt edge. That worked well to give just enough distance for the Deep Creep to reach in and do its job. Also got the spring out, and the spring stud loosened. The M18 FUEL would not budge it, but the 3' Snap-on breaker and my 220 lbs did. Also, this ABS sensor is shot too. Had to beat it out. There goes another $40.

 

[92exp4x4]

Very cool, I almost bought a Navajo several years ago. I should have, as they pretty much don't exist anymore.

Good luck on your project. Start looking for the grill and headlights for spares. Just in case..

 

[Mudman1]

Very cool, I almost bought a Navajo several years ago. I should have, as they pretty much don't exist anymore.

Good luck on your project. Start looking for the grill and headlights for spares. Just in case..

I have looked a bit, but no real luck. They are kinda hard to find!

 

[Mudman1]

Today I finished pulling apart the driver's side front end. Sanded, primed, and painted the radius arm. It is back in. Found out you have to jack up the axle for it to align with the bottom hole. Removing the broken shock mount was fun. Drilled 2/3 of it out, then had to hand cut the cast washer off. Then had to pound out the rest of the bolt threads. The Doorman replacement was a bit loose and I didn't like it. So, I slapped a grade 8 washer on each side and put a lock washer on the back side. That should hold it. Got the knuckle in place, but had to stop there. Can't get the bottom nut to tighten as it spins. I jacked up my left shoulder the other day, so I can't apply pressure and tighten. Tomorrow when my girlfriend is home, we'll get that done. Bearings are already packed and ready. Spindle bearing did not want to come out of this one. Ended up having to destroy it, then use my Dremel to gently cut into the shell so I could pry it out. No damage to the machined surface! I noticed the Timkin replacement kits have more bearings than the factory, but also no spacers for grease. So, I had to just spend extra time packing as best I could.

 

[Mudman1]

Hello. Tonight I installed / mounted the passenger side caliper and new pads. I was going to replace front brake lines, but after reading in the shop manual (and Google) how a special tool is needed to bleed the ABS unit, I opted to not do that. Life situations have changed and we are moving (bought a house). So I have to get this hanger queen up and running quickly. Exhaust is still problematic as none of the 5 different exhaust hangers I've purchased work for the layout. New bolts are in to hold the intake box / filter box to the fender liner. New fender screws finally arrived from Amazon to holder the fender flare on. I've done more priming and painting on the underside. Tomorrow I'm going to get the driver's side to the same status as the passenger so on Sunday the girlfriend can help me bleed the brakes.

 

[Centaurious]

You know the warning about the ABS so DON"T let the reservoir run low. Sounds like you are getting it done! Congrats on getting a House.

 

[Mudman1]

Front calipers are mounted. It looks so pretty with shiny new stuff on it. I stuck with the rounded head for the steel to rubber nut for now. It is sealed tight, no leaks. The driver's side spun right off. No problems there. Tomorrow morning I'll bleed the front calipers. Drained the front diff. Lots of crap in the bottom of the diff. Sucked it out twice. Drained the manual trans. That **** looked like black coffee that sat out on the counter for a week. And it smelt horrible. I think I was the first one to remove those plugs. The transfer case did not look too bad. Seeing as the dumbbell was not ever removed, I know that was factory. But I changed it out anyway. Put Valvoline Syn ATF in both. Front got Lucas. Rear, well that will have to wait until I can jack the rear up and let the axle hang because the fuel tank skid plate is in the way right now.

Rear shocks came off in a mixed bag, kinda. Right side the forward top nut stripped so I have to reach up there tomorrow and cut it off. Other nut and bottom bolt were no issues. Those shocks are so rotted you just touch it and the sleeve falls off. The left side...both top ones came off no problem but the bottom bolt won't leave the rubber. I've beat it, turned it, torqued the shock body around. It is soaking in Deep Creep overnight.

I'm glad I ordered rear spring shackles as the right rear is so rusted you can see through the middle of the inboard side. It is supposed to be solid. I'm thinking those bolts are just going to be cut out and I'll buy some Grade 8 and slap them in there.

The exhaust is still problematic. I thought the tailpipe would go outboard of the stabilizer arm, but it looks like it wants to go inboard of it. The hanger arm is not wanting to cooperate. Can anyone confirm on their ride if the exhaust goes inboard or outboard of the stabilizer arm bar? I can't remember as I cut mine out many weeks ago. Thanks!

 

[Mudman1]

Brakes were bled today! Fresh juice in the veins. Got one of the rear shocks off. Then for the front steering parts... Turns out that parts sold on Rockauto.com are more incorrect than correct for this vehicle. The left outer and inner tie rods require that shackle to be bolted together and adjusted. My plan was to reuse the original ones. Well, rust had a different idea. So after counting threads, measuring, and banging, one of the stripped. O'Reilly had the two clamps in stock. I drove and got them. Come home, only one fits. Umm. Well, after some measuring and checking, the AC Delco parts for the right side (drag link and tie rod) were the right sizes and threaded into the new O's clamp. The left side are both 2mm small diameter. So, no worky. Went back to O's and we looked around. Not a single steering component in stock for this vehicle, except those clamps. I returned the one big enough for a dump truck. I bit the butt cheek and ordered all new MOOG tie rods (inner and outer) and the MOOG clamp. Should be in on Wed. Three times the price as Rockauto, but I have to get this damn thing rolling. Now, I have two tie rods that are good for throwing at zombies...and nothing more.