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Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

If you have the rails on the roof already....
You can just make a cross bar mount out of 1" round steel tube. Weld some small 2-3" legs out of the same 1" tube, then a small 1/8" flat plate tab to drill a bolt hole thru, and use a set of stock luggage crossbar bolt tie em downer thing a ma bobs to the rails.

Now you can add 10 pod lights or one big 52" light bar across the entire thing. :D

Yeah, blind everybody behind me. I'm starting on a new route Monday that delivers to a two mile section of a main road, that people don't expect a mail man. They pass without thinking of who's coming, blind corner or not. I just need some lights high and attention grabbing, mainly at the back corners.

My 99 truck has a 93 roof, and the 1st gen rack. I'll take off the side rails, and fit a pair of steel(square) to the roof, with a rack bolting to that. That way I can make it the full width of the roof, and longer than most aftermarket stuff, with the nice round tubes that are easy hook bungee cords to etc. There's one that was around $150 on Amazon that people liked, except for the sections rusting at the joints and bolts. I need something that can hold large boxes 20" or more high, and strapped down with weather covering. It's a work truck, looks don't matter much of course, function, you know how that matters.
 



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There are a couple brands of roof baskets that have the center add on sections. They go pretty much full length of the roof, and can haul a bunch. Easy to add lights to them too. I have 4 light mounts for the led pods, that clamp mount to .75, 1, 1.250 tubes. Yet to mount them permanently, but they held well on the test run.

BTW.... My basket was a few years old when I got it 10 years ago. It is nothing but a cheap Coleman basket. I did find some surface rust in the tube connector ends, and it faded. I spent some time a few years ago, and sanded it down, and repainted it, and it is perfectly fine. I also made my own U-bolt clamps for it, as the stock bolts did rust out eventually. There is pictures and posts about it in this thread from around 2015. I load the crap out of it when traveling. The waterproof luggage travel bags fit perfectly in there, if you want to keep stuff dry. I wouldn't let the negative reviews stop you from getting one, as people tend to exaggerate, and nit pick too much, and after all, it is a cheap add on, and it will perform the function your after for years & years, as is.

If all your after is a temporary flashing light to warn others your coming to deliver, try one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07839ZST...d_r=cdfe1a4e-c259-11e8-9084-47b0b2b8c51c&th=1
 






When's your appointment at the stealership for that cam syncro code?
 






When's your appointment at the stealership for that cam syncro code?

Oct 4th.
Been thinking about this. I will ask them to run a diagnostic test first, then see if they agree with the synchro being out, before doing that job. Ford has the right computer software tools for the test, and has found things for me in the past, I had a hard time with. If they just do the synch re-install, and it doesn't fix it, they will run a diagnostic check after to find the real problem anyways, so this just makes more sense to me.

Of course, they might shake a head, and laugh at me, after seeing the wiring work done to it. I can't afford to let them spend days tracing circuits either. My biggest fear is the work done was not compatible joining a 98 system with a 95 system, and nobody, but the swap installer can figure this out. I have never prayed for a bad ECM, but in this case, I am.
 












the crappy thing about electrical is they charge strait time

True, but if they say they fixed it, and the issue comes back, they will take care of it. Trust me, I hate paying for something twice, and that's what I'm doing with this issue. I also hate that the rig has been useless, and a lawn ornament for 9 months now too. Can I afford this? Hell no, but it is what it is.
 






Ok, so the 1309 code seems to be sorted by the dealership.

The cam syncro was indeed installed wrong, and the firing order was also wrong. The install tool was pointing sideways, and no amount of movement helped the timing. I got to watch the laptop screen as the tech did this. Hoping this is the last I mention this code, for this rig.

Now that the engine issue is handled, it's time to move on to the other issues.

This weekend, @TheBlackPearl will be assisting in getting the 4wd working again. Plan is to remove the CAD harness, and start from scratch.

After that, I need to find a good gear shifter with a known working OD button/harness. If anybody has one, I can use it!
 






That's good progress, can you at least drive it some to break things in and look for other bugs?
 






Excellent!!!!!
I'm 'kinda' disappointed the cam syncro was not installed properly, although it made for an easy fix.

My OD button did not work when I picked up my truck, but the light was always off, and I could not take my truck out of OD.

When I took the console apart, I found the harness was stretched and broken from the shifter moving up and down. I ended up splicing some wire in to the harness and soldering. Then strategic placement of the extended wiring seems to have fixed that issue (Although my truck isn't exactly seeing much use these days).

I'm so happy to hear you are making progress at fixing up these issues.
 












That's good progress, can you at least drive it some to break things in and look for other bugs?

Oh, most definitely! Now that I am not afraid of ruining this engine, I can start on getting it running better, a tune, etc... Been a long 9 months of not being able to use something you basically sold the farm, and sunk every penny you had into it. :)

Dono, that's good to hear about being able to splice and solder that tiny, tiny, tiny, little wire ribbon. Unfortunately, I don't think my 10 arthritic thumbs will allow me to do this precision work. I will give it a go tho, as I have one of those soldering magnifier's with alligator clamps. If it doesn't work, I am no more at a loss, then I already am, so yeah, why not?

Jon, it felt fine getting up to speed on the hwy on ramp, and from a dead stop. It only took a couple of miles to get it home tho. I will take it out for a longer test, real soon tho.
 






Glad you were able to get her up and running better.
 






Big thanks to Kurt & Jacob for spending the weekend, and helping out with the rig issues. We tackled a couple of the 5.0L swap problems, and had luck with one of them. Kurt happens to be a certified mechanic and is a dealership tech, with many years experience under his belt. Was a God send to have him over, to have a look into this rig, and it's problems after it was returned to me.

The good:
The CAD axle wasn't working, and thus no 4wd.
We attacked this one first. Starting at the axle itself, we removed the CAD housing off the axle, and pulled out the shift fork. To make sure it wasn't broken, we applied vac pressure to it with the mighty vac. It worked just fine. Ok, next...

Moving on to the switch inside (A), we tested it for continuity to the relays (B). Tested fine, and we has all 3 wires check out from A to B.
From there, we removed the vac ball, and checked it for leaks. All good.
Now to the relays themselves. We discovered neither of them was getting any power. We jumped them to the battery, threw the switch, tested them both, and with the jumper wire, they worked. We hooked the shift fork housing back up to the relay vac lines, and watched the shift fork go from side to side with each relay being powered.
We found a good key on power source on the passenger side and Kurt did a real nice splice, and made a very nice new harness to the relays. Done deal, Working 4wd again. :)

The bad:
The Non responding Overdrive issue.
Removed the button harness, and checked for breaks, bends, stretching, etc... Looked fine. Doing a continuity test, it read alright, but it has a very high resistance on it. Jury is still out in this switch if good or bad right now.
Kurt dug deeper into the other side of the button harness, and traced it to the firewall at the bulk head connector. He went to remove the bulkhead cover, and I heard his disgust plain as day. He crawled out of the dash, and told me to have a look for myself.
So here it is..

Burned up wire at firewall.jpg


Seems the engine swap shop, added some red 16 ga wire to 4 stock harness wires for some reason or another. All we can think of is they re-used the 95's dash harness, and just spliced into it for this & that. The wire that is burned had to be a flash burn, and got the wire element hot, and instantly burned off the jacket. I would have smelled that, if it happened here. I am 100% convinced, this was done, before it was shipped back to me.
After removing the bulk head cover, he was able to see more, and the wires connected to the new red wire. All Data says that this is the only wire of this color scheme, and is a C148, but does not offer the details, except that circuit goes to the cluster, and Gem. Same with the other 3 wires connected to the new red wire. So this would be where they spliced the 98 harness, into the Gem. Well, that's out best guess, as only they know what was done 100%. We used the meter on the burned wire, and checked every switch/control inside the rig, to see if anything was tied into it.

All we found was the front pass window, and both rear window door switches do not work. They do from the master door switch tho.
The other known electrical issues is the Overdrive not responding, of course, and the 3rd brake light does not have any power to it.

The one item that bugs the piss out of me, is they removed, and kept the hood light, and the anti theft hood switch off the fender. They could have left them, even if they didn't have the provisions for them, in the 98 harness. The anti-theft switch should have been hooked up, as All Data says it does indeed come in the 98, and is ran to the rear modules in the rig. This puzzles me, and angers me at the same time.

So, after another weekend spent trying to repair items already paid for being done, we still have issues with this thing to sort out.
I am going to have Kurt take temporary possession of this rig for a while, and spend some serious time, going over the electrical at his shop. This means removing the engine harness to the fire wall, and the wiring in the dash, and using his high tech instruments, and his professional knowledge, to get this damn rig where it needs to be.... Safe to use, and not worry it's going to burn to the ground on me.
 






Good find and smart choice to have some expert help too. I hope he can trace those burned wires and repair them easily.

BTW, the rear window switches not working isn't related to those dash wires. Since your windows all work now from the master switch, any power window issues are downstream, thus in the doors themselves. All window power and ground goes through the master switch, and is sourced through the LF door, kick panel, and dash. So it should be the individual window switches to check for those individual faults.
 






I'm super glad you found someone who knows what they are doing. Your on the road to recovery now.
 






Agreed Don. We live a few hours apart, and both busy people, so it is hard to get any real time together for work /play, and only happens a few times a year. I didn't have a reason to actually operate any door switch, besides the master panel until today. I didn't know they didn't work. I thought the same thing, as long as the master works, I should be able to figure out the others eventually. I was just posting the known issues, in case somebody had an "Aha" moment.

Yes sir Boomin, It has been a long emotional roller coaster, of a recovery road so far, and it seems, it just got longer. Most likely won't be until after the holidays and over the winter, or when he has room in his shop, and can take breaks from his ongoing SAS build. I don't want to be a burden, or impede his progress, with my junk either.

It is always something, in work, personal life, or these damn rigs!
 












For the other windows not working beat on the child-lock unlock switch while someone holds one of the other buttons. I've seen the switch bad a few times in the explorer.

For the overdrive issue it's a simple circuit that is probably missing. Power goes to the button from a fuse, then sends the signal to the pcm from the button when tapped. It's a momentary switch.

I'd be concerned those idit's removed the o/d bulb to hide a trans code now.
 






That's a good tip for that child lock! I will def give that a try, thanks!

We knew it was a momentary switch, so we tried to activate it from the harness side connector with a wire jumper. Tapped it to try to trigger the PCM, no dice, with no light. But if it needs power to make it work, that wouldn't have worked anyways. They had to leave, as they had a 3 hour ride back. (They are currently stuck on the road due to a bad accident and hwy shut down from a bad storm that hit them :( )

I left the lower dash apart, as I am pulling the cluster to check the OD bulb next. That was the plan, until we ran into the burned up wires, and spent time on All Data trying to figure out what they was for. I will do this when I get a chance over the following week.
 



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Ok, been digging thru some diagrams tonight.

I found the burned wire, and what it's for. It is the 4x4 indicator circuit for the cluster. This kinda makes sense to me. This is just an educated guess, but it's the best I got, unless one of the installers speaks up, and says different.

I purchased the 4x4 indicator sensor from AA for the Atlas case, and sent it with the rig to be installed/wired up, so I have the dash lights working for it.
I got the sensor back loose, not installed. I asked why it wasn't installed, but got ignored. To me, they might have tried, and fried, that circuit, then removed the sensor, and just said F it.

I also found the circuit and wire color to the OD light circuit in the cluster to PCM. :)
 






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