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Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

I think you should since the Directions included from Richmond are not Correct for the Ford D35. So Someone else ( like me ) will not run into the same issues that you did.
 



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Yes, do, every picture and new commentary helps everybody have an easier time of it.
 






Front locker is officially finished :)

Took most of the afternoon and into the evening, but I got it licked. Getting the front dif in by yourself with a standard floor jack is not recommended :rolleyes: That took a lot of time getting it up in there and with the Dixon Bros LCA cross member, it's even more of a PITA. A person working a trans jack would have been ideal...a lesson learned...lol

Next obstacle to overcome was the new C/V axle for the Drivers side. Apparently the Cir-clip on it was just open way to far for it to go in. I was getting frustrated with it thinking something was wrong inside with the locker, or the shims not allowing the bearing to seat right. 88comingup stopped over and swapped the old clip off the other C/V axle(after squeezing it tighter), and BAM! in it went :) Props to him for the help there.

After dropping the front Diff, it's time to take the cover off and drain it.
Once its drained, you will see the innards, and now the bearing caps need to be marked as to not confuse them on install. This is extremely important! If you look closely at the photo below, you will see where I used a small punch and marked the left with one mark, & the right with two marks. I also used a yellow wax crayon to mark the tops, and the sides to ease confusion of how they should be installed.

capid.jpg


The intermediate shaft needs to be removed, before the carrier can be removed. The CAD is a little diff than others as the housing, the shift fork, and the stub axle with coupler needs removed as well. There is a spacer washer, and a clip that holds these in place. After the clip is removed it comes out with a little back & forth of the axles in the tubes.

Carrier removal:
After removing the caps and carefully placing them aside, the carrier is removed. Slide it out straight at you, (use a prybar and tap it if it is stubborn) and take the shims with it at the same time. I kept the order of the shims and left to right, then the caps, and used a zip tie, to keep them together until install time.

bearingcapsandshims.jpg


Mark the ring gear & the carrier with an etch mark, wax marker or welders stone. Just so long as you can replace the gear to its exact location later. I used the impact to remove all the ring gear bolts from the carrier. Once it is off the spider gears come out by hand easily. Place them in a box somewhere as you will not be needing them again.

Smear axle grease on all the locker parts ( I used red med grease) this will hold things in place for you making it easier for the install.

Make sure you remove the thrust washers off the side spider gears and slide them onto the outer locker parts. Slide the outer ring side in place, both inner washer parts, then the inner driver, then the pass side outer. (Here is where I got confused) Next the 2 inner washers need to put together, and then installed in the pass side inner driver. Drop the last 3 parts in the carrier all at once.

Fill the 4 window holes on each inner driver with axle grease. Take the 8 springs and place one smaller spring inside a larger one until you have 4 spring set ups. Smear some axle grease on all 4 to hold them together. Line up the window holes on the locker with the center shaft hole lined up. There are 4 small pins that go in these windows, and they slide in one side and then get pushed to the other side,(I used a dental pick), then the springs go in place behind the pins. Make sure they "Snap" into the locker for a tight fit. Just press on the edge with a tip of a flat screwdriver. Slide the shaft into place and tap in the pin.

Should look like this now.

2311lockerinstalled1.jpg


Next is the ring carrier install. Place the carrier in a vice and snug it without touching the bearings. Place the gear on and match it up to your markings. Tighten them up in a criss cross star pattern a little at a time. After they are all snugged up, torque then all to 80 ft lbs, using the star pattern, then double check them once more.

ringgearinstalloncarrier.jpg


Okay! Time to re-install the carrier :)
Using the proper side shims, place them on the ends of their original locations, and all at once, slide the carrier in place. This may take a few tries and it will be snug. Just be patient here and be easy as to not bend or damage the shims. It will go back in place, and once it is, the bearing races go back on. After installing them EXACTLY the way they came off, torque them to 47-67 ft lbs.

Now replace the intermediate axles and if you have the cad, just reverse the order you removed it with. Bolt the cover back on, with a gasket, rtv or both. Loosen the fill plug to where it almost comes out. Install the diff back in the truck. Fill with 80-90w gear fluids, and snug up the fill plug.

Your done! Button up the rest of the truck and go break it in for 50 miles.

I used this time to install a new C/V axle I had as a trail spare.
newDrCV.jpg



Test ride for Toby!

2wd-- You don't know it's there at all. Drives like normal, feels no different than before.

3wd-- Transfer case in 4hi & low, and front axle disconnected. This is a weird feeling, as it will steer to right hard at first, and you have to counter steer to have control from a standing start. You know its there as it is still in break in period and you can hear it working a bit.

4wd-- Transfer case in 4hi, and front axle connected. Easy on the throttle it drives as normal as it did in this range. Hard to tell a difference unless you jump on the throttle.

4wd low-Okay, now you REALLY know it is in there! In gravel, I hit the throttle a bit and wow, night & day difference. With all 4 wheels working in sync, you can feel the control difference and the power going to all 4 at once is unreal compared to having 3wd open in loose ground.

April 2nd is the real test for it, as a few of us are heading to the off road park for a day of wheeling. Can't wait to see what it can do, and hopefully I don't test it too hard and have trail repairs :p:

I have to break it in for a bit, so I will take it easy on it out there...lol

Here is a link to a thread telling what Locker you run, if you want to add to it.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309569&highlight=locker+run
 






Awesome mate, after all the trial's and tribulation's you've faced and overcome, I'm stoked your sorted. Awesome, awesome news mate!!!
 






Thank you so very much Greg. I'm sore as heck right now, and am so relieved it's finished for now until the next Mod.

Stay tuned---Next weekend the welder is getting a little workout with 3 new mods. :D

:salute:
 






Here is a before picture of the bumper. Hopefully by Monday, it will be finished with the makeover.

frontbumper95.jpg


This picture is from when the front locker was being done. Notice no D35, no C/V axles, no dr side coil over, & the knuckles separated from the UCA. Too bad it didn't have this kind of droop all the time...lol




:salute:
 






Hell yeah :D:thumbsup:
 






DOUBLE Hell Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is Awesome! Dig how it is bolted to the frame horns and how it wraps around.
 






Looking great! Love the front bumper!!!
 






Sorry guys....I didn't get any of the front work done over the weekend :(

It was not meant to be I guess. Weather was bad with mid 30* temps and 2 days of rain, so no outdoor work could be done. Indoors, there is a truck with a trans pulled blocking me from getting under cover. I hope next Sunday is better weather wise. That bumper was made for a 1" body lift, and mounts need raised 2". Frame rails need capped with 3/8" plate and 1" thick clevis mounts welded thru it. Add a 2x3 cross member and winch plate between the frame rails in front of radiator, still to do.

The only things that got done was the relocation of the rear tow hooks to a better spot for descent angles & Lifted the front 1.5" to get more room for the front tires.

There is a chance of going wheeling this coming Saturday, but with this bumper sitting 2" too low, I am afraid of the tires rubbing it on the wrap around tubes at compression, but since it got a little more lift, it is hit or miss (pun intended).
 






I'd say take it easy on saturday and she'll be right but I bet you wouldnt!!!
 












Yes Sir, hahaha, just like that! Go hard or go home:thumbsup: Wicked vid!

I just checked out your other video's on the tube, furlurken' awesome mate!!!!!
 






Thanks Greg. :) Will have a few more added here shortly. Woot!

Been thinking of a way to move the rear axle back a couple inches without an SOA. The 35" tires are real close to the body in front of the tires. I need to install some new leaf springs still, but would also like to move it back. When articulating one side and stuffing the tire it will still rub. Cutting the body is not an option.

The front spring mounts on the frame are at a point that if I move em back any it will lower them. That is not a good option for me as that is already a place to hang up on.
The rear spring mounts are boxed into the frame rails. These can be relocated if needed.

How to go about this is still a mystery to me. I know a longer drive shaft will be needed. Longer springs with the center pin back farther? Full width axle & outboard the leaf packs? Staying SUA for lower COG is my wants, but is it even possible? If this is just a pipe dream I will just get bigger bump stops/limit straps, to limit my rear flex, but not being SAS, the rear flex is the only flex it has :rolleyes:

Any ideas? Has anyone seen this done without hacking the body with SUA?
 






you can fab new leaf spring perches that have centering holes 1 or so inch in front of axle centerline.
 






FireZapper did that to his, it is in his thread, , he moved the pin location on his springs back to allow room for his big tires,, it looks easy enough,,
 






you can fab new leaf spring perches that have centering holes 1 or so inch in front of axle centerline.

FireZapper did that to his, it is in his thread, , he moved the pin location on his springs back to allow room for his big tires,, it looks easy enough,,

I love you guys! :D

Brilliant! The obvious slips my mind yet once again...LOL
 






I was informed that simply "Flipping" (180*) the leaf packs will move the axle back 2.5". The pin on the leaf packs are not centered. This is what I plan on doing, and getting the drive shaft lengthen and balanced.

Since the shop was occupied at the welders shop, I had to push the bumper project back another week. So I made these up in the meantime. The cable guards I have need a new mount on the front now, so This is what I came up with. 2 pc design. Removable for when I don't need them, and easily installed with clevis pins. Booger welded 2 nuts and washers(nut-washer-washer-nut) inside the tubes so the eye bolts can be adjusted for height.

Together.
cablemounts.jpg


Bottoms.
cablemount1.jpg


Tops.
cablemount2.jpg


Mocked in place. (placement is subject to change)
cablemount3.jpg
 






Lookin' good gman!
 



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