Front locker is officially finished
Took most of the afternoon and into the evening, but I got it licked. Getting the front dif in by yourself with a standard floor jack is not recommended

That took a lot of time getting it up in there and with the Dixon Bros LCA cross member, it's even more of a PITA. A person working a trans jack would have been ideal...a lesson learned...lol
Next obstacle to overcome was the new C/V axle for the Drivers side. Apparently the Cir-clip on it was just open way to far for it to go in. I was getting frustrated with it thinking something was wrong inside with the locker, or the shims not allowing the bearing to seat right. 88comingup stopped over and swapped the old clip off the other C/V axle(after squeezing it tighter), and BAM! in it went

Props to him for the help there.
After dropping the front Diff, it's time to take the cover off and drain it.
Once its drained, you will see the innards, and now the bearing caps need to be marked as to not confuse them on install. This is extremely important! If you look closely at the photo below, you will see where I used a small punch and marked the left with one mark, & the right with two marks. I also used a yellow wax crayon to mark the tops, and the sides to ease confusion of how they should be installed.
The intermediate shaft needs to be removed, before the carrier can be removed. The CAD is a little diff than others as the housing, the shift fork, and the stub axle with coupler needs removed as well. There is a spacer washer, and a clip that holds these in place. After the clip is removed it comes out with a little back & forth of the axles in the tubes.
Carrier removal:
After removing the caps and carefully placing them aside, the carrier is removed. Slide it out straight at you, (use a prybar and tap it if it is stubborn) and take the shims with it at the same time. I kept the order of the shims and left to right, then the caps, and used a zip tie, to keep them together until install time.
Mark the ring gear & the carrier with an etch mark, wax marker or welders stone. Just so long as you can replace the gear to its exact location later. I used the impact to remove all the ring gear bolts from the carrier. Once it is off the spider gears come out by hand easily. Place them in a box somewhere as you will not be needing them again.
Smear axle grease on all the locker parts ( I used red med grease) this will hold things in place for you making it easier for the install.
Make sure you remove the thrust washers off the side spider gears and slide them onto the outer locker parts. Slide the outer ring side in place, both inner washer parts, then the inner driver, then the pass side outer. (Here is where I got confused) Next the 2 inner washers need to put together, and then installed in the pass side inner driver. Drop the last 3 parts in the carrier all at once.
Fill the 4 window holes on each inner driver with axle grease. Take the 8 springs and place one smaller spring inside a larger one until you have 4 spring set ups. Smear some axle grease on all 4 to hold them together. Line up the window holes on the locker with the center shaft hole lined up. There are 4 small pins that go in these windows, and they slide in one side and then get pushed to the other side,(I used a dental pick), then the springs go in place behind the pins. Make sure they "Snap" into the locker for a tight fit. Just press on the edge with a tip of a flat screwdriver. Slide the shaft into place and tap in the pin.
Should look like this now.
Next is the ring carrier install. Place the carrier in a vice and snug it without touching the bearings. Place the gear on and match it up to your markings. Tighten them up in a criss cross star pattern a little at a time. After they are all snugged up, torque then all to 80 ft lbs, using the star pattern, then double check them once more.
Okay! Time to re-install the carrier
Using the proper side shims, place them on the ends of their original locations, and all at once, slide the carrier in place. This may take a few tries and it will be snug. Just be patient here and be easy as to not bend or damage the shims. It will go back in place, and once it is, the bearing races go back on. After installing them EXACTLY the way they came off, torque them to 47-67 ft lbs.
Now replace the intermediate axles and if you have the cad, just reverse the order you removed it with. Bolt the cover back on, with a gasket, rtv or both. Loosen the fill plug to where it almost comes out. Install the diff back in the truck. Fill with 80-90w gear fluids, and snug up the fill plug.
Your done! Button up the rest of the truck and go break it in for 50 miles.
I used this time to install a new C/V axle I had as a trail spare.
Test ride for Toby!
2wd-- You don't know it's there at all. Drives like normal, feels no different than before.
3wd-- Transfer case in 4hi & low, and front axle disconnected. This is a weird feeling, as it will steer to right hard at first, and you have to counter steer to have control from a standing start. You know its there as it is still in break in period and you can hear it working a bit.
4wd-- Transfer case in 4hi, and front axle connected. Easy on the throttle it drives as normal as it did in this range. Hard to tell a difference unless you jump on the throttle.
4wd low-Okay, now you REALLY know it is in there! In gravel, I hit the throttle a bit and wow, night & day difference. With all 4 wheels working in sync, you can feel the control difference and the power going to all 4 at once is unreal compared to having 3wd open in loose ground.
April 2nd is the real test for it, as a few of us are heading to the off road park for a day of wheeling. Can't wait to see what it can do, and hopefully I don't test it too hard and have trail repairs

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I have to break it in for a bit, so I will take it easy on it out there...lol
Here is a link to a thread telling what Locker you run, if you want to add to it.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309569&highlight=locker+run