The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

I have no idea about the rear windows, but it would be nice to be able to roll them down all the way. I will take a look at the set up soon, as the DR rear window has stopped working and I need to get in there and fix it.

 

[gmanpaint]

Stardate:07.11.10...

Decided to start the M5-R1 manual trans conversion this weekend, only to have the project halted for a couple weeks. I have 99.9% of all the swap parts on hand. All that is missing is the little Dorman plugs (#555-108). Hard to find these suckers in stock anywhere!

I just wont have the time to do this completely before our meet at Smorr this coming weekend. So it is going to be wheeled to the auto trans dies.

 

[Elessar65]

So it is going to be wheeled to the auto trans dies.

Hopefully you have a way to get it and yourself home when you kill the tranny at SMORR. :

 

[cybergasm]

I Think the Trans will survive SMORR :

but anyways is'nt it the little stuff that always holds up a projects anyways?

 

[Turdle]

Gregg's transmission has been "going out" since CCR last fall.

I think he just wants the 5 sp

 

[gmanpaint]

Hopefully you have a way to get it and yourself home when you kill the tranny at SMORR. :

I have a plan to get it back home in the event it croaks out there. Gotta give me a little credit here, I'm not that stupid

I Think the Trans will survive SMORR :

but anyways is'nt it the little stuff that always holds up a projects anyways?

I hope it does survive. It will be just that much easier to get it home. The little stuff has always plagued my plans.

Gregg's transmission has been "going out" since CCR last fall.

I think he just wants the 5 sp

When returning from CCR, the trans started making a weird squeaking noise. This poor rig has sat more than drove because of it. 2 k miles managed to get on the clock since then. For the most part, they have been gingerly added.

I do want the Manual for peace of mind of no more over heating and being stranded :

 

[gmanpaint]

The trans held up threw the latest wheeling meet. It only went out wheeling for a few hours total though.

I have a little Brake issue to figure out and if any of you guys got some advice I surely would appreciate it.

Okay....Earlier on in the day on the trails, the brake pedal went to the floor. It pumped right back up and stayed for awhile, then it happened a couple more times, each time it pumped right back up.

We went out at night, and decided to tackle some harder trails. about halfway down a gnarly level 4 narrow trail in the pitch black night, we approached a huge obstacle. Just as the rig was about to go over the edge between massive boulders & trees, the pedal went to the floor, only this time it did not pump back up. Yikes!!!

With no where to turn around, we had to go backwards UP this trail to get out. No brakes meant it had to be done just right the first time. This was accomplished with some pucker factor thrown in the mix for good measure..LOL

After an inspection of the rig, we found zero leaks, and a full reservoir. About half way back to camp, I tried the brakes and they worked once again. WTF? The next day, they still worked, and was able to get it home.

Will a master cylinder show symptoms like this if it is going out?

Did it somehow loose vacuum to the power booster? What would cause that? Low Idle?

ABS pump got air? ABS light has been on/off intermittent for months now. Changed hubs and rear sensor.

 

[MrQ]

If the power booster went out you would have a very hard pedal and it would take a lot of pressure to lock the brakes. It sounds like a Master Cylinder to me. Happened pretty much the same way on my '94 when I needed to replace it.

 

[gmanpaint]

If the master goes bad, I thought it leaked into the booster. Since there is no fluid loss, could it still be the problem?

See, my confusion here is the ABS pump. I know squat about it. I have no CEL, no Brake light. So it might be the master........????????????????????????????

 

[MrQ]

Not necessarily. If the pressure can't be maintained within the master when the seals around the piston leak, the system will loose pressure as well and you wind up with a creepy peddle and a loss of braking power. When you pump the brakes you are building up the pressure in the cylinder. It's sort of like a bad seal on a jack. You keep pumping it up and it maintains pressure for a little while, but then it starts to drop as the internal seals leak. You don't lose any fluid externally, but rather within the cylinder itself. Make sense?

That ABS piece of crap isn't going to hamper your brakes. If the light is on the ABS pump is shut off as a preventive measure by the computer.

 

[techieman33]

Darn, just looked hoping the parts would be the same as the 2000 parts since I have them sitting around but they aren't Good luck I hope you get it figured out.

 

[gmanpaint]

Anybody think using a re-manufactured Master Cylinder is a problem? I can get a new A1Cardone for $95, or a reman A1Cardone for $46.

 

[crazyflights]

Go for the reman, whats the warranty on it?

 

[gmanpaint]

Limited Lifetime...whatever the heck that means....lol

 

[Scott B.]

Limited Lifetime...whatever the heck that means....lol

Don't forget - your labor is not under warranty - only the part.

I would only get a new part from Ford - my '93 is still using the original. I don't think most aftermarket parts are as good as the factory ones...

 

[crazyflights]

Time to swap wont be that bad. Your own labor in savings is money you have earned, go with the aftermarket reman , if it goes bad they will replace it, the limited part is prolly if you have an accident the causes physical damage to it then thats not covered, i do agree OEN prolly better but for lasting longer but I wouldnt do it.

 

[gmanpaint]

I am sure that a Motorcraft replacement part would be the way to go but, $$ is an issue right now

Tousley Ford has a Motorcraft replacement for well over $100 and will take some time to get here. RockAuto has some as well, but same story. My needs and wants are conflicting as I have to be able to move this rig to & fro this week.

My labor on this rig has been extensive, and this little fix wont add up to a hill of beans compared to the amount of time already spent on it.

The aftermarket part is going on it. This rig only sees a few thousand miles a year as it is. Should be fine.

 

[gmanpaint]

Swapped out the Master Cylinder today. Had to go and get a bench bleed kit for it as the tube connectors that came with it were junk and didn't thread in correctly letting air back in the cylinder.

All was going just fine until the bleeding. Front Pass side bleeder was stripped out and had to be coerced off with a extractor socket leaving it junk after wards. I had to get a set of speed bleeders from the auto store as they do not sell bleeders alone..WTF? Only way to get one was to buy a new caliper.

The speed bleeders come with a thread tape on them. When installed the tape strips off and binds up in the hole. I believe the tape got jammed inside the tiny holes in the bleeders sides and will not let fluids pass thru it. So I still have a soft pedal after screwing with it all day

I need to find a stock 3/8" bleeder online somewhere and get it on the rig asap.

I did manage to get the rear brakes installed on my brothers car tho Early 90's eclipse has the same wheel bolt patterns as our rigs! Found that kinda strange, but cool at the same time.

 

[IZwack]

I read that those speed bleeders need to be torqued down really good.

But I also had to do brakes today (van) and the one-man bleeding kit from HarborFreight was most excellent (for $5). The only downside is that the bottle isnt really big enough so I had to dump it every 4 or so pumps of the brake pedal - and I had to flush the entire system so it took a few sessions of dumping per caliper to get clean brake fluid to bleed out. But all four calipers took only about 25 minutes total.
http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-37201.html

 

[Turdle]

I bet I have a caliper in the garage I can swipe one off of ---