The Black Pearl SAS and build

[delexploder]

Keeping an eye on this

 

[KurtECV]

No worries man. Its going to be a slow build. Hoping to have it on its own weight by spring.

 

[KurtECV]

I'll try and remember to update the thread with part numbers of odds and ends parts for everyone to reference.

Like the lead spring centering bolt when replacing them or doing an soa like I am.

The Barnes 4wd 7 3/4" anti wrap spring perches use a 1/2 centering pin.
The replacement pin I got from the local auto parts store is Dorman 660-032.

It's about as long as my forearm so you'll have to cut it down. I've got a horizontal bandsaw so it will be quick work.

 

[KurtECV]

Well we got the 9" in. The spring perches are more than tacked in place But not fully burned in yet. Going to wait til the front end is in place to double check pinion angles and all that full stuff.

This thing is massive now. With The SOA and the 35s (from 33s) I didn't think I'd get that much lift.

 

[KurtECV]

Ok so I got the track bar bracket in from ballistic.

What would be the best way to plate up the frame? Specifically the area on the bottom (outer) corner of the frame between the steering box bolts, the section that is angled at about 45 degrees.

 

[Spudhut]

Subscribed

 

[KurtECV]

Well I got the stock coil buckets off... those are going to Gman in a few weeks.

The end of the week is supposed to be subfreezing but hopefully I can get some more work done on the truck, at the very least id like to get the brackets setup for the upper coils and get the frame fish plated on the drivers side in preparation for the track bar frame side bracket

 

[KurtECV]

Well braved the cold tonight and got some work done on the ballistic coil brackets. I've seen a lot of guys (some explorers) run the frame side of the bracket upside down hooking into the bottom but the frame with no issues so I figured I'd run mine that was, plus having to push the buckets out 2 Indus worked perfect for using the ballistic ones as a template.

I don't know if its over kill or Not but I'm going to add some 1/4 plate between the two frame side brackets tying them together, between the ballistic side and the one I cut out this evening.

On the drivers side, in regards to the buldge in the frame, once the frame brackets are finished the top will be ground down to meet with the bulge and welded there as well.

Once the brackets are in place I think it's time to start getting the frame played around the frame/power steering bolts.

 

[KurtECV]

the plan last weekend was to get the coil buckets ready to weld on. i picked up a piece of plate from a coworker 25x18 for 20 bucks, i thought it was 1/4 inch but after actually measuring it... its 3/8 plate so i need to go to the hardware store and pickup a few more pieces of 1/4 to finish up the buckets, that will get done this weekend

 

[Spudhut]

Nice...im putting the same buckets on my Gen2. We must have been waiting for the same batch to be cut out and shipped, finally got mine last week too.

 

[KurtECV]

ive had mine for a few weeks, bought them "used" still in the original package and unwelded from a guy who went a different route, $150 for the adjustable brackets and 6 inch full size bronco coils.

 

[jprentice94]

Good to see some work done

 

[Garrett Meissner]

might be a dumb question but im new to the TIB stuff. why did you cut off your original coil buckets off of the frame and buy the balistic ones? could you have used the original coil buckets, or were they in the wrong location or what?

 

[KurtECV]

I'm running full width axles and also moving the axle forward a few inches.

With full width and the stock location (coil buckets) the coil springs bow in at the top because the axle is about 6 inches (iF i remember correctly) wider Then the stock stuff so you Have to space out the upper buckets.

Most guys will run a factory style 78ish bronco/f150 upper coil bucket and use a piece of 2 square tubing bolted and/or welded to the backside of the bucket to the frame to make up for the additional width.

Also with these particular ballistic fab buckets, they are adjustable vertically 5 inches. Also I got them and a set up full size bronco 6 lift coils for 150 locally.

I used the frame side of the bucket make a second set to those brackets (they are 2 inches wide) to make up the two inches of extra width.

 

[Garrett Meissner]

So if you don’t run a full width Dana 44 you shouldn’t have to change the coil buckets?

 

[gmanpaint]

1st gen buckets and shock towers are together as one pc. Doing the sas, your going to want individual components, for a longer shock, and possibly change the mounting location a little. That and different style coils, with the buckets. The aftermarket parts are also a lot thicker than the thin stamped stock parts.

 

[KurtECV]

What Gman said. Also if you find an early bronco d44 you don't have to change the mounts as Those axles are only like an inch or so wider than the dana 35.

Also with an eb solid axle guys will cut the shock mount off the explorer setup and out a set of f250 shock towers on.

 

[KurtECV]

question of the day:

i see a lot of guys welding a section of tubing to the center of the upper coil bucket; The buckets ive got are built for Xjs, but are kinda universal, are the coil is retained with a plate and bolt kinda like the lower spring cup on the axle side.

the theory with the tubing is to let the coil drop away from the upper bracket so the springs are not the limiting factor for articulation and axle droop.

should i run with the retainer/bolt design or weld up the tubing like a lot of guys do?

(thinking i might start with the retainer as i can always unbolt the bucket later and weld in the tube later, just thinking out loud and wondering what the peanut gallery has to say.)

 

[gmanpaint]

Could do both. That way if the coil does "Pop" out, the tube will keep it from moving out of place, and upon lowering, the coil will slide back into place.

 

[KurtECV]

Could do both. That way if the coil does "Pop" out, the tube will keep it from moving out of place, and upon lowering, the coil will slide back into place.

True, Id have to weld the nut or bolt to the retainer permanently cause i wouldn't be able to access it with the tube installed. i don't think the coil itself will be the limiting component of my front suspension... but we can dream cant we lol.

usually when i see pictures of guys running the tube, the coil has dropped 6-12 inches away from the upper bracket.

ive seen guys run that tube as i bump stop too, that doesn't seem like a bad idea either.

apparently this is on the ranger forum... guy called it a "coil slider" lol